France's oldest fashion house sold to Chinese company Why France is considered a trendsetter France's haute couture
It is impossible to talk about France and not remember what it is. special country. And the capital of France Paris - it is a magical city with extraordinary energy and history. Here lived and worked such writers as Victor Hugo, Stendhal, Honore de Balzac, Albert Camus. Eugene Delacroix, Henri Matisse, Claude Oscar Monet, Pablo Picasso painted their paintings. Starred in films and inspired millions of people Pierre Richard, Louis de Funes, Jean Reno and many, many others. And of course, it is impossible not to say about the famous French actresses, who are rightfully considered icons of style - Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardot, Sophie Marceau. And how could it be otherwise, because they are French, and France has long been considered a trendsetter and dictated its style around the world.
Fashion (fr. mode) the concept is quite capricious, rapidly changing, in the modern world, fashion is dictated by the images of actors, actresses, famous personalities. In the 17th century fashion was dictated by kings and favorites of the king. To be fashionable and stylish meant for women the ability to attract the attention of the king, to hide their flaws, to emphasize their merits. Not much has changed since then, the sense of style is a sense of harmony and the ability to present yourself while emphasizing all your advantages. In the modern world, it is not the dress that makes the man, but the man the dress. But it was not always so.
Paris has been a fashionable capital since the second half of the 17th century. during the reign of Louis XIV. During his reign, France became a trendsetter in style, because Louis himself adored magnificent outfits with a huge amount of precious stones and expensive fabrics, lace and ribbons. It was with the accession to the throne of Louis XIV that France completely conquered Europe in a few centuries and became a powerful capital of style. Parisian novelties were eagerly awaited all over Europe, noble ladies from Germany, England, Russia sent their tailors to France to study the latest fashionable novelties. Hats, hairstyles, cosmetics, accessories, shoes, clothes and everything is created by the French. French fashion temporarily erased all national differences, differences between classes, French fashion has become world! The worldview and ideas of people about how a real man should look like have changed. The man ceased to be a rough, physically strong and poorly educated warrior. The image of a young man is a graceful, gallant gentleman who knows how to treat ladies in an excellent tailored suit - this is the ideal of male beauty of that time. French manners, exquisite French costumes, the dominance of French speech are the consequences of the reign of the Sun King Louis XIV.
Louis XIV fashion It is also called Versailles, since the favorite residence of the king was in Versailles, and fashion history was created there. All over the world, women owe high heels to the King - the Sun, since he wore heels because of his small stature, soon the whole court, then all of France, both men and women wore high heels. And they took private lessons, at least in high heels. Over time, the heel became lower, due to the fact that the monarch aged, and it became difficult for him to walk in heels. For over 100 years, Versailles costume included a wig (since the bald king started wearing a wig). The male image now consisted of a wig, a powdered and rouged face, and of course a wide-brimmed hat with ostrich feathers.
Accidents became fashionable patterns, any unusual detail in the wardrobe of a royal person became a new fashionable toy. For example, the story of the wife of Philip of Orleans, the French Duke, Princess Elizabeth Charlotte of Palatine and the appearance of the palatine (fr. palatine). The story is related to the fact that during severe frosts the princess put on fur stripes of different colors in order to keep warm, at court everyone took this as a fashionable attribute of the wardrobe. Soon the whole aristocratic world, and then Europe, wore fur capes called stoles. A special brilliance, for example, was to appear at the reception in different shoes: one foot was shod in a shoe with a spur, the other in a boot with a magnificent bow.
After the decline of the reign of the Sun King, France retained the title of world capital of fashion. The image invented by Louis outlived its creator for a long time, this left a huge imprint in the history of fashion.
In the end In the 18th century, the social and political life of France changed. The Great French Revolution (fr.R?volution fran?aise) changed the course of history, the monarchy ceased to exist and a republic appeared. The revolution contributed to the development of new ideas and of course changed the history of fashion. Fashion now dictated new rules of the game, people had more choice. In those days, it was fashionable to have suits for work, leisure, sports, going out - it became necessary. Thus began a new stage in the development of French fashion. At the beginning of the 20th century, women styled their hair in high hairstyles, wore huge hats lavishly decorated with ostrich feathers, artificial flowers and stuffed birds. They emphasized their femininity and beauty with the help of swan down boas, luxurious stoles and chiffon scarves that covered bare shoulders.
Formal suits, short women's hairstyles, and trousers for women during the First World War. During this period, fashion was rarely thought of, but women during this period became more independent, as they had to difficult period do hard men's work. The mainstream of fashion has become the loose, business suit for the last decade. Until the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, the fashion industry was absent in France, since the standard of living was very low and a very small number of people could afford an expensive suit.
Beginning from 1950 - 1960s a new period of fashion begins in France. These are the fashion houses of Coco Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy - names that have become household names in the world of high fashion. Everyone knows a little black dress Coco Chanel and fitted jacket. And the name of Yves Saint Laurent is associated with a new trend in the fashion world with classic and simple looks, trouser ensembles. The fashion world has turned upside down. There are mini, leather jackets, jeans, T-shirts, lace underwear and again France dictates fashion. French designers have achieved incredible success, which makes their creations unusually expensive, but exclusive and original.
In the 2000s the fashion industry is developing thanks to John Galliano, Domenica Dolce and Stefan Gabbana, Paul Smith, Donatella Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta. The modern fashion industry is a huge business that includes the production of clothing, shoes, accessories, perfumes, and cosmetics. Everything that we have today, fashion houses, modeling schools in France - all this has been formed over time and experienced historical changes. French fashion has a huge history and it continues to develop, discovering new styles. But the capital of fashion is and will be France by right!
With all this, the development of fashion opens up more and more new horizons. I just want to note that fashion is the art of imitating, and it is quite difficult to maintain one's individuality. The sense of taste is what matters! It is important to understand who you are, to be confident in yourself. In our time, it is not enough to imitate someone, now smart, energetic people who are engaged in self-education, are in harmony with themselves and are natural in their image are in fashion.
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Designers are those authorities in the fashion industry who dictate fashion standards to us and define trends. Each designer is famous and recognizable for something of his own, and each has a special unique handwriting. Some of these people become real legends in the world of fashion and style. How did they do it? Maybe they are just minions of fate - or behind this is the desire to make their dream come true and gigantic work? What made them famous?
Gabrielle Boner Chanel (Coco Chanel)
Probably everyone knows the famous Mademoiselle today. She is quoted, she is sought to imitate. She had a huge impact on the fashion of the 20th century, founded the fashion house Chanel, gave the world her signature perfume under the numbers. Coco got her nickname when she sang in a cabaret. She was an extraordinary, bold and bright personality, with great willpower and impeccable taste. We owe it to the modernization of women's fashion, the adoption of many elements from the men's wardrobe, the popularity of the universal little black dress, pearls, tweed suits, small hats, costume jewelry and tan.
Coco Chanel made luxury practical. Most of all in clothes she valued comfort and embodied this principle in her collections. She said that "luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." Among Mademoiselle's clients and acquaintances there were many world celebrities. In an interview, when asked about what events in her life aroused her interest in art, she replied: “Living in an orphanage under the supervision of nuns, I learned to sew. They taught me basic seamstress skills and I was smart enough to understand the method. I really got my hands on and focused on design already in early age, which is why I had famous clients so quickly.”
Chanel opened her first store in 1910 in Paris. They sold hats. Later, clothing appeared in her stores. Interestingly, the very first clothing that Chanel created was a dress made from a sweater. People paid attention to her outfit and asked where she got it, and in response, Koko offered to make the same outfit for those who were interested. She later said that her condition was "based on an old sweater I wore because it was cold in Deville."
Karl Lagerfeld
One of the most influential fashion designers, a man of phenomenal capacity for work, a multifaceted nature, the owner of many talents. This world-famous designer of German origin has been head of the Chanel fashion house since 1983. In addition, Karl is a designer and founder of his own fashion brand, a talented photographer, director, owner of a publishing house and a personal library of 300,000 volumes. Lagerfeld says about himself: “I am like a chameleon, several people live in me at the same time. Creating for me is like breathing. I don't even think about it. When I sit in the director's chair of Chanel, I am Chanel. When I go to Rome and I am at the Fendi House, I am Fendi. I start work on a new collection the day before the previous one is shown."
His Creative skills appeared in early childhood. He studied at the Lycée Montaigne under the High Fashion Syndicate on the same course as Yves Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld collaborated with a large number of famous fashion houses, creating fragrances, ready-to-wear lines, shoes, and accessories. After he created his first fur collection for Fendi in 1966, which was a huge success, he was noticed by the most influential people in the fashion world.
In the 70s, Lagerfeld began to collaborate with famous directors and create costumes for the actors of the La Scala theater. He breathed new life into the fashion house of Chanel, becoming its head and designer, saying: “Yes, she said that fashion is dying, but style is immortal. But the style must adapt, adapt to fashion. Chanel had her own life. Great career. She's over. I did everything to make it last, and I continue to do everything to make it last forever. My main task is to try to transpose what she did into today. Guess what she would do if she lived now and here, if Mademoiselle were in my place.
Friends call Karl Kaiser (Caesar, in German) for his amazing ability to do several things at once. He hides his age and worries that there is not enough life to realize all his creative ideas. Lagerfeld loves books (he even created the Paper Passion fragrance with the smell of a freshly printed book), draws illustrations for works, cannot imagine life without photography, sews costumes for cinema and theater, produces perfumes, develops his own brand, creates hotel design, shoots short films and organizes exhibitions, produces women's collections.
Elsa Schiaparelli
The famous Italian designer of the first half of the 20th century, who is considered a surrealist from the fashion world, the main rival of Chanel, the creator of the ready-to-wear style. Elsa was born into a family of aristocrats, from childhood she studied painting, art history, and loved the theater. Working part-time as a tour guide in Paris, Elsa watched how the wives of wealthy Americans were least interested in architecture and most of all in fashion stores. Presumably, it was then that she came up with the idea to shock the public with unusual clothes.
Acquainted with an emigrant from Armenia, knitted sweater whose work Elsa liked so much, she persuaded her to create unusual models of clothes together. The fruit of their labors was a very unusual black woolen dress with a bow in the form of a butterfly. Thanks to their work, they attracted attention and received a large order from the Strauss sportswear store. It was this order that gave fame to Schiaparelli and the knitwear factory to the Armenian diaspora. Elsa founded her own fashion house. As originally planned, she shocked the public with her collections. They embodied her wildest fantasies and dreams, expressed something irrational and incomprehensible. Each item was unique. Many were created in a single copy. Hearts, constellations, hugging hands, snakes, giant flies, unusual drawings, embroidery and bizarre accessories - all this attracted attention and shocked.
It was Elsa who first invented the concept of "boutique" (a store that sells small series of designer clothes). Many celebrities collaborated with Elsa and bought her clothes with pleasure. Schiaparelli had a contract with Hollywood. She was friends with Salvador Dali (it was he who suggested to her the idea of a dress with lobster and parsley and a phone bag). Under the influence of Dali, Elsa created her most unusual things: a hat in the form of a shoe or an inkwell, gloves with pockets for matches. Costume jewelry was the embodiment of the strangest ideas; lollipops, medicines, erasers, pens, pencils, dried beetles were used as materials.
Elsa often called her fashion house crazy. The popularity of the Schiaparelli collections was huge, everyone wanted to have these strange clothes, even the Duchess of Windsor herself. But when she had to leave for the United States due to the outbreak of World War II, she seemed to be forgotten about. Upon returning to Paris in 1944, her style was no longer in demand. Chanel dominated the fashion scene and Elsa decided to leave the fashion world.
Both talented women were innovators in the fashion world, but completely different. Chanel created within the framework of the classics, without focusing on brightness and catchiness. Elsa was extravagant, loved to shock and provoke. The contribution of both to fashion is undeniably invaluable, although the Schiaparelli brand has not existed for a long time. Elsa's ideas and discoveries can be seen embodied in modern fashion, as if she was ahead of her time. Unusual color combinations, fuchsia color (shocking pink is also Schiaparelli's idea!), bottles in the form of a female body, fur shoes, ankle boots, unusual bags - all these are the ideas of the talented Elsa, who had a huge impact on the world of fashion and style .
Christian Dior
One of the most famous French fashion designers, to whom we owe ultra-feminine New Look dresses. He had artistic talent, and in his youth he dreamed of becoming a great artist. After his private Art Gallery went bankrupt, he went through hard times, poverty and unemployment, but fate seemed to be preparing a different path for him. He began to design theatrical costumes, draw sketches for French fashion magazines. And these sketches became extremely popular, he began to cooperate with the fashion department of the newspaper Figaro, he was noticed. I decided to specialize in fashion models, although hat designs were much more popular. Dior was noticed by the famous fashion designer Piguet, but due to the war, Dior's career did not start at that time.
Upon his return from the army, Christian began working at the famous fashion house Lucien Lelong, where he learned a lot. In 1946, thanks to the financing of a textile magnate, Dior's fashion house opened in Paris. At the age of 42, he became famous, his first collection, called by himself "The Crowned Line", was recognized as revolutionary and was a resounding success. Just imagine the post-war period, when women yearned so much for beauty and sophistication, for emphatically feminine and luxurious outfits. Dior, incredibly sensitive and talented, felt the mood of the society, its desires and dreams. Parisians were so tired of masculine jackets and short skirts then that they greeted the Dior collection with delight. Feminine silhouettes, luxurious and bright fabrics, tight waists, ankle-length skirts (either puffy or straight), small round shoulders - everything in this collection was the very embodiment of traditional femininity and charm.
But not everything was so rosy. Feminists have criticized the collection, saying that the return to crinolines and corsets indicates the oppression of working women. Many believed that after the war, luxury and flamboyance were out of place and blasphemous. However, despite the criticism, the new look captivated the public. Dior's popularity was overwhelming, his name became associated with luxury and good taste. Each of his collections was awaited with bated breath, and each was a success.
Only in 1954 was there a slightly dangerous moment for Dior's career, when Chanel returned to the fashion scene, who could not stand the "horrors of the 50s", as she spoke of Dior's models. But Dior very intelligently got out of the situation by releasing a new collection, light and unconstrained. Different than before, but still the same feminine. The silhouettes were more natural, the lines softened. Dior's personal assistant, after the death of the great couturier, once said that "if Dior were alive, fashion would not be in such a deplorable state in which it is now."
Yves Saint Laurent
One of the leading fashion designers of the 20th century, whom Christian Dior chose as his successor. From childhood, he drew and loved the theater, made home puppet shows, glued costumes and painted scenery. Laurent worked as an assistant to Dior and was fascinated by his genius, and Dior, in turn, immediately recognized young man future master.
At 21, Laurent becomes the head of one of the most famous fashion houses after the sudden death of Dior and literally saves the brand from financial ruin. He presented his first women's collection of a softer and lighter version of the new look with an A-line silhouette. Laurent was the first to introduce French fashion to the USSR (1959) by flying here with 12 fashion models.
It seemed that bright prospects lay ahead as a successor who lived up to the expectations of the late Dior. But it was not, however, without envy and trouble. The owner of the fashion house Dior (Marcel Boussac) is rumored to have insisted that Saint Laurent be sent to military service in Africa, thereby wanting to get rid of the designer. There he learns that he was fired from the Dior fashion house.
In 1961, the brand Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent) appears, his first collection was a great success. Oriental motifs, bright colors, inspiration comes from African countries. Saint Laurent also produces perfumes, works as a theater designer, creates scenery and costumes.
The ideas of Laurent's subsequent collections also received great recognition and became a kind of fashionable classic: women's tuxedos (later they became a signature feature of the brand), trouser suits, high boots, turtleneck sweaters, black leather jackets, safari-style dresses, ethnic motifs. Laurent becomes the first designer to launch a full-fledged ready-to-wear line and also the first designer to have an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art during his lifetime.
Giorgio Armani
The Italian fashion designer is called a fashion pioneer of the 20th century, a master of tailoring, an adherent of quality and a great aesthete. Giorgio from childhood loved art and theater, he painted and sewed clothes for dolls. He had a dream of becoming an actor, but his parents insisted on the profession of a doctor. After two years of study, Giorgio dropped out of the university. He found himself in the world of fashion. Armani created his own brand in 1974, and before that he worked as a window dresser in a large chain department store, and also designed menswear for Nino Cerruti.
Armani's professional skills in working with fabric led to the fact that, in fact, thanks to him, the approach to tailoring menswear completely changed. Lightness and smoothness appeared, which, along with simplicity and conciseness, provide his products with a special chic and convenience. After the overwhelming success of the men's collection, Armani began to present women's collections, paying special attention to working women. In his collections, traditional views harmoniously coexist with the most modern trends. He modernized the classics with great grace and taste. Luxurious materials, experiments with the combination of fabrics, functionality and versatility, casual elegance are the hallmarks of the Armani collections.
Ralph Lauren
A well-known American designer, who is called the king of ready-made dresses, who "discovered America for America." His company (Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation) produces accessories, clothing, underwear, textiles, furniture, wallpapers, perfumes, dishes. Lauren has been named Designer of the Year three times and has also been named Fashion Legend by the U.S. Designers Council. For many people, Ralph Lauren is an example of how a person from a low social stratum can reach great heights with a dream and talent. A native of Belarus (his parents met and got married in the USA), from a poor large family, Ralph from a young age set himself the goal of succeeding. He was struck by the wardrobe of a classmate, which belonged only to him alone, and in which the clothes were so neatly laid out. In Ralph's apartment, there was only one closet for everyone. Since then, the future designer decided to work and save money for his dream.
Interestingly, Lauren does not have a fashion designer diploma, but at the same time he is one of the world's best designers. He does not sew clothes himself, but he is an inspirer, a designer, he thinks through each collection to the smallest detail. The designer himself says this: “I never went to fashion school - I was a young guy who had his own style. I could not imagine that "polo" would become what it is. I just followed my instincts."
At first, Ralph worked as a salesman (sold clothes, gloves and ties), then became a tie designer, created a fundamentally new model (he was inspired by the novel The Great Gatsby): a wide silk tie (while thin ties were in vogue then). Thanks to an investor, Lauren and her brother opened a store and their own Polo Fashion brand. People wanted high-quality and stylish things and accessories, the brand was gaining more and more popularity. Lauren released ready-to-wear collections (first for men and then for women) and accessories. He was the only one to produce sports shirts in 24 shades.
Loren's collections combine chic, sophistication and at the same time ease, simplicity and brightness. “My clothes are a vision of what I believe in. Someone once told me that I am a writer. It's true - I write through my clothes. She embodies history, not just clothes, ”said Lauren. Ralph's wife inspired him to create women's clothing collections: “My wife has good taste and her own style. When she wore shirts, sweaters and jackets bought from men's stores, people always asked where she got it. I associated her appearance with a young Katharine Hepburn - a rebel girl on a horse with her hair fluttering in the wind. I made shirts for her." Lauren brought Western style into fashion. And polo shirts never seem to go out of style.
The dreams of the boy Ralph came true: he is one of the richest people in the world, he has a strong family, three children, owns a ranch and is one of the world's largest collectors of vintage cars.
Roberto Cavalli
The famous Italian designer asks to be called a "fashion artist" and is famous for his exotic and spectacular collections of clothes and accessories. His fashion house adheres to the philosophy of femininity, chic and bright temperament. The designer himself in an interview said that his fashion “became successful and relevant, because other designers continued to produce monotonous things ... For a long time, designers tried to dress women on an equal basis with men. I changed this trend. I'm trying to emphasize the feminine, sexy side that is present in every member of the fair sex.
A great influence on the disclosure of Cavalli's talent was made by his grandfather, the famous artist Giuseppe Rossi, and his mother, who was a dressmaker and designer. As a child, helping his mother with sewing clothes, Cavalli realized that he wanted to work in design and fashion. He was one of the best students of the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, he studied the technology of printing on textiles. Even then, he created a series of floral prints that attracted the interest of large factories in Italy. Cavalli always liked to experiment, while still studying at the Academy, he began to invent different ways dyeing leather and fabric, he was then only 20 years old.
And so, these experiments led to the fact that in the early 70s, Cavalli himself invented and patented a printing system on leather, which allowed it to be dyed in six different colors. This revolutionary invention instantly became popular with various fashion houses. Stretch denim jeans are yet another hit from Cavalli that made the Maison prosperous and successful.
The bright and extravagant clothes of Roberto Cavalli are in great demand among fashionistas around the world, they are worn by the most glamorous celebrities on the planet. Cavalli believes that a woman should have a character and a strong personality. In an interview, he said: “Beauty comes from within, and is a reflection of the individuality of each person ... Beauty is a calling card that helps at the first meeting, but is completely useless at the second.”
Valentino Garavani
The founder of the Valentino fashion house, the famous Italian fashion designer loved to draw since childhood, in his youth he loved art and was interested in fashion. He was an apprentice, studied at the School of Fine Arts in Paris, and at the School of the Chamber of Haute Couture. He worked in several fashion houses, then opened his own atelier. His works were distinguished by refinement, excellent cut, expensive fabrics, handmade decor, and sophistication. In 1960, the Valentino brand was born.
Thanks to the meeting with the architect Giametti, the future CEO of the fashion house, Valentino gets the opportunity to engage only in creativity, without delving into the intricacies of the business. He himself said: “I only know how to draw dresses, receive guests and decorate a house, but I don’t understand anything in business.” In one of the collections of the 60s there were red outfits, which later became the hallmark of the Valentino fashion house. The fashion designer says: “Red is the most best color. It suits any woman, you just need to remember that there are more than 30 different shades of this color.
Over the years, the designer has dressed celebrity celebrities, many of them preferred to purchase exquisite wedding dresses from him. Among his clients were such legendary personalities as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor. At the Oscars, many actresses shone in outfits from Valentino. In 2007, the famous fashion designer announced his retirement from the world of fashion, and in 2008, a farewell show took place at Paris Haute Couture Week, where all the models walked the catwalk in red dresses, and the audience gave a standing ovation.
March 10, 2015, 17:55The origin of the phrase "haute couture" in Russia is often not understood, or rather, confused. In fact, this is the pronunciation of the French term "haute couture", in literal translation - "high tailoring", "High fashion", and not at all Russian "from Eliseev", "from Slava Zaitsev" or "from Versace"! Now let's get to the core of this concept. Haute couture clothes are not just something elegant, dizzying or handmade - they are, strictly speaking, models of those few fashion houses that are part of the Paris High Fashion Syndicate (Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne).
History by analogy with champagne - as you remember, only wine from the Champagne region that meets all the rules of the French "National Institute of Appellations of Origin" (INAO) has the right to be called and cost like champagne, and similar drinks from California, Canada and Russia will forever remain just "sparkling wines". In general, the Haute Couture Syndicate is a purely French trade union, closed to foreigners for a long time. With global international influence - after all, for several centuries, Paris has won the status of the capital of fashion!
The rather strict rules under which fashion houses and ateliers of the corresponding class can apply to join the Syndicate are regulated by French law, and the final list of its members is approved by the Ministry of Industry. Everything is serious and at the state level. Having monopolized the haute couture label and created the Syndicate, France has earned the right to put its own “quality mark”, and, accordingly, prices. The history of haute couture (that is, "high fashion") is the social history of Europe. The first couturier in the modern sense was the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth, who specially moved to Paris to open his own fashion house there.
This was in 1858. Why is he considered the first? Because he was the first to dictate his vision of fashion to aristocratic clients, and they appreciated him! After him, other fashion designers began to do the same. Worth was the first to divide collections by season, the first to sew a ribbon with his name on the dress, and the first to introduce fashion shows on live fashion models, abandoning the then common practice of sending rag dolls to customers dressed in the proposed mini-outfit.
His customers, including the crowned persons of nine royal courts, famous actresses and the richest people of that time, chose models from the collection, which were then sewn from the proposed fabrics according to their shape and size. In general, Worth became a real revolutionary indoshiva; he was the first to see in the tailor an artist, and not just a craftsman, and proudly called him a “couturier”. And by the way, he was not at all shy about charging very high prices for his ball gowns! In France, and throughout Europe, clothing has long been a hallmark of class, rank and status in the social hierarchy. The law forbade the lower classes to wear clothes from a certain fabric and even one color or another.
The French Revolution changed everything! At this time, a decree was issued allowing all citizens of the Republic to wear any dress they wished. In this regard, the sewing business went up sharply, and in 1868 the most status fashion designers who dressed the highest circles of society united in the Professional Couturier Syndicate to protect their copyrights from plagiarism from tailors who dressed ordinary bourgeois. At the end of the 19th century, to join this organization, fashion houses had to sew outfits to order and only by hand, which, according to Charles Worth, guaranteed the uniqueness of the model and high quality (as opposed to machine production). And a little later, everyone was obliged to hold regular fashion shows for clients and demonstrate new seasonal collections twice a year, that is, “PR”. Only a member of the Syndicate had the right to bear the title of "couturier". Clients who wanted to emphasize their individuality and high position in society went to shows and dressed only at such masters.
So, in 1900, the couture "shop" consisted of 20 fashion houses, in 1925 - 25, in 1937 - already 29. Along with the Parisian houses, there were ateliers and fashion houses created by Russian emigrant aristocrats: IrFe, Iteb, Tao, Paul Kare and others. Since 1910, the Syndicate has been transformed into the Chamber of Haute Couture, which began to promote French fashion to the international market. Immediately after the Second World War, the Chamber organized a traveling exhibition - the Theater of Fashion, in which 53 fashion houses took part. Next year, the number of Houses increases to 106! This time is called the “golden years” of haute couture: Paris hosts 100 shows per season, more than 46 thousand people work for High Fashion, 15 thousand customers use the services of the Houses, mostly representatives of the “old money” of Europe and America, aristocrats . Such famous ladies as the Duchess of Windsor or Gloria Guinness order entire collections for their wardrobe.
Sonsoles Diez de Rivera and de Icaza, a Spanish aristocrat who dressed with Cristobal Balenciaga: “When my mother, a regular client of Eisa (the Spanish atelier of Balenciaga) and just his girlfriend, found out that the couturier closes everything and retires, she experienced a real shock , because she literally ordered her entire wardrobe for decades from him and simply did not understand what she should do now. His clothes, sewn for one client, were completely different from those he made for another. He knew them so well."
Wedding Dress sewn by Balenciaga for Sonsoles Diez de Rivera and de Icaza
The reason why Balenciaga and other couturiers had to sadden their clients so much was in the coming 60s with their "revolution of the young", youth music and youth subcultures. That's it - now the trend is set by rebellious idols, and London is becoming the center of fashion for young people! Fashion is rapidly losing its elitist character and is turning into a mass democratic industry.
It's time for prêt-à-porter - the ready-to-wear industry! A mere mortal got the opportunity to buy designer items in stores. Unable to withstand the competition, the ateliers closed one after another, and by 1967 only 18 fashion houses remained in Paris. At that time, Parisian haute couture survived only thanks to the "Arab princesses", the wives and daughters of Saudi or Qatari oil sheiks, who came to Paris and, not counting, spent money on exclusive outfits of famous brands. The new rich from the USA, who made their fortunes, for example, in Silicon Valley, were not interested in “High Fashion”, the “new money” had completely different ways of social self-presentation, everyone was obsessed with charity, and buying a super-expensive outfit was morally unacceptable for them. Therefore, at the end of the 20th century, when the oil crisis affected the wallets of the Arab clientele, several large Parisian Houses (Torrente, Balmain, Féraud, Carven, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Givenchy and Ungaro) suspended their shows.
Parisian couture had to be saved! Marketers and financiers were "set" to monitor the change in pulse and maintain immunity. It was then, in fact, that people appeared in the management of fashion houses who had been successfully selling yogurt or diapers just yesterday. But still, why didn’t the French give up this costly business and why do they take the seemingly ordinary tailoring craft so seriously?
Firstly, it is enough to see how a dozen of craftswomen manually embroider a detail of a dress or process specially brought from South Africa feathers to understand that "High Fashion" is not just a decadent whim for the rich, but a real art of sewing. Time-consuming, costly and rare art for those who can afford it (imagine one dress usually takes 200 to 500 hours of work).
Secondly, the value of French haute couture is in the use of the labor of high-class artisans who, in traditional French ateliers, make lace, pleating, feather decorations, buttons, flowers, jewelry, gloves and hats commissioned by fashion houses. All this is done by hand, with soul, as in the good old days, and therefore simply cannot be cheap! If these old ateliers are not provided with orders, then their centuries-old knowledge and experience will disappear forever in the maelstrom of mass made in China fashion. In general, haute couture is not just a cultural asset, but an emotional component of the “modern France” brand, and as long as haute couture traditions are strong in Paris, France will stand above any of the world's fashion capitals!
Having accepted the rules of the game of the modern fashion business, the Chamber of Haute Couture is actively involved in management and marketing, it organizes the week of haute couture, which takes place annually in January and July, establishes and maintains contacts with the press and buyers around the world, and since 2001 simplifies draconian conditions for admission to the Syndicate.
Today, in order to obtain the status of a Haute Couture House, it is necessary to have the main production (ateliers, workshops, shops) in Paris in order to legally be part of the French Department of Industry; pay for the work of at least 15 permanent employees - silk specialists, high-class tailoring specialists (earlier - 20 employees and three permanent fashion models), show 35 models on the catwalk twice a year (in the early 1990s, the collection was supposed to include not less than 75 models per season). All haute couture dresses are made only in one copy, the number of machine seams should not exceed 30%, finishing and decor should be made according to old traditions, in those very specialized Parisian ateliers. Plus a large entrance fee - where without it! These "concessions" made it possible to accept Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler into the Syndicate.
Despite the modernization of the entire system, the old French Houses went bankrupt and left the game one by one, so another category of participation was introduced - "Invited members of the Syndicate" to attract new luxury brands. And - yes, now, under special conditions, the Syndicate is beginning to accept rare foreigners. The houses of Versace, Valentino, Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani, whose headquarters are located outside of Paris, become corresponding members of the Chamber. In addition, the defile-off option appears: an opportunity for young designers to show their collections not “within the framework”, but “on the margins” of the haute couture week for several hundred thousand dollars (by the way, Ulyana Sergeenko took advantage of this opportunity not so long ago) . This move has a very practical explanation: it is almost impossible for young designers to get into the prêt-à-porter week schedule, it is packed to capacity, but there is plenty of space in the couture week, which means there are more chances to be noticed.
Starting from 2005, life begins to return to haute couture, “high fashion fashion” comes. The hardly alive Givenchy resumed showings, representatives of the Houses of Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier then started talking about an increase in orders; Christian Dior sells 45 couture dresses straight off the runway. Chanel claims that their current haute couture clients are not only Middle Eastern millionaires and eccentric Russians, but also Europeans, Americans, Indians and Chinese. Giorgio Armani greatly surprised fashion industry analysts by launching his couture line Armani Prive in 2005 - they say, what does the 70-year-old Italian, who has never done High Fashion and built his empire on classic jackets and trousers, count on? Nevertheless, his bet on super-luxury turned out to be correct (as in 2012 - on the Armani / Dolci line of jams and jams): clothes priced at 15,000 euros, which take 2 months to create, are in demand among his European clients. In addition, both Armani and Chanel pay their chief seamstress to fly on a private jet for fittings directly at the client: many of them do not attend the fashion show, protecting their privacy. Fashion houses are increasingly holding private shows in showrooms in New York, Dubai, Moscow, New Delhi or Hong Kong, because only 10% of customers buy couture items in Paris.
The English newspaper Telegraph once quoted a young couture customer from Kazakhstan as saying: “In our country, a magnificent wedding is the norm. My respected family cannot afford to have me at a wedding in simple dress. And in no case should another guest wear the same outfit. So haute couture for such occasions is more a necessity than a luxury. Our fathers and husbands take this fact for granted. The social calendar of a respected wealthy woman from the East, according to couture studios, is from fifteen to twenty weddings a year, plus at least one private party every month. It is much more intense than that of the richest women in Europe and North America, for whom a worthy occasion to wear haute couture outfits is member weddings. royal families and charity high-society balls. The only pity is that photo reports from oriental balls cannot be seen in the secular headings of glossy magazines.
So that two dresses do not “meet” at the same party, fashion houses ask numerous questions for each order, including: “What event are you invited to?”, “Who is accompanying you?”, “What mode of transport will you use to arrive at the place events?”, “How many guests are expected?” Representatives of the studio clearly keep records of which country and which event this or that outfit will go to.
But the most amazing thing is that the very haute couture traditions that Worth promoted 160 years ago are still alive! The dresses still shown in the fashion show are the exemplary models. Still, the client chooses a model that she likes, then it is manually sewn for her new model by figure. True, now for regular customers they even make special mannequins, exactly according to their standards. But just like Worth, these things cannot be cheap: the price of an evening dress will be about 60 thousand dollars, a suit - 16 thousand dollars, a dress - from 26 to 100 thousand dollars.
Each of the haute couture houses (except, perhaps, such giants as Chanel and Christian Dior) has an average of 150 regular customers, which is not much more than the court tailors in the 17th century. Despite the fact that there are no more than two thousand customers all over the world, and the main income of the Houses will still be perfumes, cosmetics, accessories and bags, it is in this union of pure creativity and industry that the bright future of fashion lies. Professionals predict two ways of developing couture in the 21st century: the first is that the couture line will become a laboratory of ideas, a manifesto and a conceptual statement. The second is a “return to the roots”: working with clients, creating a wardrobe for them that will decorate them in all possible life situations.
As of 2012, the official members of the Haute Couture Syndicate were (could not find more recent information):
Adeline Andre
Christian Dior
Christophe Josse
Frank Sorbier
Givenchy
Jean Paul Gaultier
Gustavo Lins (fr)
Maurizio Galante
Stephane Rolland
Jewelry brands - members of the Syndicate:
Chanel Joaillerie
Van Cleef & Arpels
Corresponding members: Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Versace.
Featured guests: Alexandre Vauthier, Bouchra Jarrar, Iris Van Herpen, Julien Fournié, Maxime Simoens, Ralph & Russo, Yiqing Yin.
Former members: Anna May, Anne Valérie Hash, Balenciaga, Callot Soeurs, Carven (fr), Christian Lacroix, Ektor Von Hoffmeister, Elsa Schiaparelli, Emilio Pucci, Erica Spitulski, Erik Tenorio, Escada, Fred Sathal, Gai Mattiolo, Grès, Guy Laroche, Hanae Mori, Jacques Fath, Jacques Griffe (fr), Jacques Heim, Jean Patou, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Jeanne Lafaurie, Joseph, Junaid Jamshed, Lanvin, Lecoanet Hemant (fr), Lefranc Ferrant, Loris Azzaro, Louis Feraud, Lucien Lelong, Mad Carpentier, Louise Chéruit, Madeleine Vionnet, Madeleine Vramant, Maggy Rouff, Mainbocher, Mak Shoe, Marcel Rochas, Marcelle Chaumont, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Patrick Kelly, Paul Poiret, Pierre Balmain, Pierre Cardin, Rabih Kayrouz, Ralph Rucci, Robert Piguet, Ted Lapidus, Thierry Mugler, Sophie, Torrente (fr), Yves Saint Laurent
Updated on 11/03/15 00:49:
Video how haute couture clothes are made
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These days, the cosmopolitan high fashion society moves between New York, London, Milan and Paris. Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, Versace, Chanel, Dior and others have created real temples of fashion and luxury. Where is the extreme degree of luxury, the limit of what a woman who is not constrained by means can afford - a movie star, a princess, a supermodel, a top manager or the wife of a very rich man? The answer is obvious - high fashion.
Haute couture, or "Haute Couture" in French, means the most exclusive creations of fashion houses. However, not every fashion house creates haute couture. Usually such clothes are made by the most eminent designers - and most often they are created for specific customers. Most haute couture houses produce only about one and a half thousand dresses a year.
Each item from the haute couture collections is hand-sewn to the customer's measurements. Therefore, haute couture clothes always fit perfectly, and great couturiers such as the legendary Balenciaga (1895-1972) can even transform the proportions of the figure thanks to the cut.
Clients of haute couture houses can be sure that they will not meet anyone in the same dress. Haute Couture is the highest form of international fashion, akin to art. High fashion creators can tailor their ideas to the requirements of a particular customer. By the way, clients of haute couture houses often have a chance to personally meet celebrity couturiers, and also receive invitations to visit Paris Fashion Week as spectators, which take place twice a year - in January and July.
Paris is the center of high fashion
Since the extravagant court of Louis XIV, French fashion trends have been the focus of attention throughout the rest of Europe. Later, in the 18th century, Rose Bertin became famous, the "Minister of Fashion" at the court of Marie Antoinette, the queen's milliner, who is considered the first famous French fashion designer. Since then, dresses from Paris began to appear in London, Venice, Vienna, St. Petersburg and Constantinople. The unique Parisian elegance has created a reputation for French fashion throughout the world. High fashion as we know it originated in the 19th century. The father of haute couture was Charles Frederick Worth, who can be considered the first modern couturier. He opened his fashion house in 1858 and introduced a number of innovations, such as showing dresses on living models. His clients were Empress Eugenie (wife of the last French Emperor Napoleon III) and Princess Metternich (wife of the Austrian diplomat Metternich).
However, Worth invented not only the first fashion shows. He and his sons founded the Paris Haute Couture Syndicate in 1868, an association of haute couture houses that determines what criteria fashion designers must meet in order to carry the proud title of couturier. Nowadays, the term haute couture is defined by the French authorities and has a number of precise criteria. Therefore, only a narrow circle of fashion houses can be called haute couture houses. Each year, their list is determined by the Paris haute couture syndicate.
To be considered haute couture, a fashion house must have a staff of at least twenty people. He must present to the press a collection of at least thirty-five ensembles twice a year in Paris. Moreover, the collection should include both daytime and evening items of clothing. Obviously, fulfilling and maintaining all these criteria makes the creation of a haute couture house very prestigious, but very difficult.
What is the uniqueness of haute couture
Who are the clients of haute couture houses? Haute couture houses rarely talk about their clients, and rightfully so. However, we know that in the past, their clients were the stars of the great era of cinema: Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Romy Schneider, Greta Garbo, Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor. And also members of the royal families - Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco, Queens of Belgium, Denmark, Spain and Thailand, Arab princesses - the list is very long. Nowadays, the clientele of fashion houses is replenished by pop stars such as Madonna or Jennifer Lopez, as well as women from industrial and financial empires such as Onassis, Getty, Thyssen, Rothschilds.
There is also a feedback - in haute couture clothes, a woman feels like a truly important person. It is important for top managers, women politicians and other serious ladies to look elegant and personable, as well as to feel good and confident. And what could be better for self-confidence than perfectly tailored clothes, the work of one of the top designers?
High fashion in practice
A lot of work is required to create each piece of haute couture. For example, it takes one hundred to one hundred and fifty hours of work to sew a daytime suit, and 
with embroidery, it may take a thousand hours. The process of creating clothes becomes a real art. So, for example, Karl Lagerfeld, the couturier of the Chanel house, first draws a sketch, then patterns are made from it, according to which a draft version of clothes (toile) is first sewn from a simple fabric, and only after that real clothes are made, and at least two fittings are carried out. For regular customers, Chanel keeps special personal mannequins made to measure.
For today's successful woman, there are many reasons to turn to the most luxurious fashion. After all, there are many special occasions in life for which haute couture clothes are suitable: weddings, anniversaries, receiving awards, a theater premiere, a ball, attending official events, and so on.
Modern French fashion houses
The Duchess of Windsor, Mrs. Wallis Simpson, married King Edward VIII in 1937 wearing a dress from the French fashion house Mainbocher. Spanish Princess Alcantara wore a Lanvin gown to her wedding. The wedding dress of the Belgian Queen Fabiola was made by Balenciaga in 1960. Many great fashion designers such as Manbocker, Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet, Robber Piget, Elsa Schiaparelli and others have already left this world. Others, such as Balenciaga, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus and Thierry Mugler, have retired from high fashion. But other great houses such as Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier continue to exist and develop.
fashion brands not only determine the wardrobe, the production of clothes and shoes, accessories and gadgets depends on them. They serve as a measure of success and respectability. From year to year, fashion brands of the world even influence the relationship between people and different social groups.
Fashion brands did not immediately receive their fame and authority. Behind the promoted and popular brand are years of painstaking work, whose fate (successful or not), ups and downs. No brand or trademark wins fans in the very first days of its existence. On the other hand, the gained prestige allows well-known brands to keep leaders even when there is a crisis all over the world and the profits of enterprises and companies are falling.
What is the secret of fame of world brands?
As a rule, global brands are closely connected by their destiny with the life of their founders, and therefore many bear their name. The surname and name of a person becomes a symbol of fashion, trendy things, a symbol of success and good luck.
The most fashionable brands in the world make a big list. Some are engaged only in the production of clothes or shoes, perfumes, leather accessories. But many of the brands produce everything in their factories to look successful and fashionable. With the name of the same brand, you can buy shoes and a stylish dress or suit, pick up an original bag or belt for them. Fashion brands of the world develop all their products in one concept, even if the collections differ in design style.
Popular fashion brands are closely related to trade, because the brand determines the popularity and demand for certain goods. There is something very attractive and magical about things with the logo of a famous brand, even if their design is unremarkable.
Acquaintance with the list, which includes the most famous and reputable world brands, allows you to navigate when choosing clothing or shoes. Having earned credibility, the brand will do its best to keep it, controlling the high quality of its products. Therefore, in most cases, buying a product from a well-known brand is a pleasant event.
Famous fashion brands in the world constantly expanding the range of products, offering consumers not only new things, but also a new look at familiar phenomena. The development of the brand cannot stop, because there are a lot of competitors in the world market in any area. Constant movement forward, creative solutions and ideas, a responsible attitude to one's authority - these rules are invariably observed by the fashion brands of the world in order to stay in the lead.
Throughout history, fashion in clothing, cosmetics, and accessories has been dictated by different countries; At the moment, Paris, Milan, London, New York are considered the most “fashionable” cities in the world. The largest fashion houses appeared, and in connection with this, the most diverse brands that became famous and popular among consumers. We decided to make Top 12 most fashionable and best brands in the world.
12. Ermenegildo Zegna/ Ermenegildo Zegna or Zegna is an Italian fashion label for menswear, footwear and fragrances. It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna. Now run by the fourth generation of the Zegna family. It is one of the world leaders in the production of men's clothing and fabrics.
Spanish model Oriol Elcacho / Oriol Elcacho
11. Ermes / Hermes Founded in 1837, the French Haute Couture House specializes in leather goods, accessories, perfumes, luxury goods and ready-to-wear. The company logo, since the 1950s, is a harnessed carriage.
American supermodel Karlie Kloss
10. Fendi / Fendi is an Italian fashion house, most famous for its baguette bags. The company was founded in 1918 by Adele Casagrande as a leather and fur shop in Via del Plebizio, Rome. The brand is now owned by luxury giant LVMH. Karl Lagerfeld is the creative director of the house. In 1925 Adele married Eduardo Fendi and they decided to change their name to Fendi. In 1962, Karl Lagerfeld became the creative designer of the house and created the famous logo - two Fs, one of which is upside down.
Polish top model Anja Rubik / Anja Rubik
9.Louis Vuitton / Louis Vuitton- French fashion house specializing in the production of suitcases and bags, fashion clothes and luxury accessories under the eponymous brand. The company is currently part of the international holding LVMH.
American model and actress Uma Thurman / Uma Thurman
8. Salvatore Ferragamo / Salvatore Ferragamo- one of the most famous and significant Italian and world luxury brands representing shoes, leather goods, accessories, clothes and fragrances. All things that make up the exposition of Salvatore Ferragamo brand boutiques are completely made in Italy. The company is owned by the Ferragamo family and controlled by Salvatore Ferragamo Italia SpA, whose president is Wanda Ferragamo, the wife of the founder of the House, and whose CEO is Ferruccio Ferragamo, their eldest son.
Brazilian top model Raquel Zimmermann / Raquel Zimmermann
7. Gucci / Gucci is an Italian fashion house and fashion brand. Gucci is considered one of the most famous, prestigious and easily recognizable fashion brands in the world. Gucci is owned by the French conglomerate Pinault-Printemps Redoute (PPR) and is the second largest fashion company in terms of sales after LVMH.
Chinese actress Li Bingbing
6. Dolce and Gabbana / D Olce & Gabbana is an Italian fashion house founded by fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.
Italian actress and fashion model Monica Bellucci / Monica Bellucci
5. Prada / Prada- a well-known Italian private company specializing in the production of fashionable clothes, shoes and accessories, which owns the fashion house and trademark of the same name. The headquarters is located in Milan.
Canadian top model of Italian descent Linda Evangelista / Linda Evangelista
4. Giorgio Armani / Giorgio Armani- Italian fashion house that produces men's and women's clothing, shoes, accessories, watches, haberdashery, cosmetics, interior items and Jewelry. The brand also produces perfumes in collaboration with L'Oreal Corporation. Currently Giorgio Armani S.p.A. has over 2000 boutiques worldwide. The creator of the brand is the talented designer Giorgio Armani.
Canadian model and face of fragrance by Giorgio Armani Simon Nessman
3. Chanel / Chanel- French company, manufacturer of luxury goods, one of the most famous fashion houses in the world. The headquarters is in Paris.
Model and actress Elisa Sednaoui
2. Christian Dior / Christian Dior- French company. Founded by French couturier Christian Dior in 1946. Under the Christian Dior brand, not only clothes, accessories and perfumes are produced, but also beauty products, decorative cosmetics, skin care products. In 2006, the brand launched the Dior Homme Dermo System cosmetics for men.
Hollywood actress Sharon Stone / Sharon Stone
1. Versace / Versace- Italian company, manufacturer of fashionable clothes and other luxury goods. The company was founded in 1978 by fashion designer Gianni Versace, after the death of the founder in 1997, the company was headed by his sister Donatella. The emblem of the company is the jellyfish Rondanini.
Models Angela Lindvall / Angela Lindvall, Carolyn Murphy, Kate Moss / Kate Moss, Christy Turlington / Christy Turlington and Daria Werbowy
