Where is the Mercedes Benz Fashion Vic going. How to get to the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week? Working with event partners
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia was held in a big way. More than 70 designers took part in the shows, whose clothes, in full accordance with the Western trend "see now, bye now", the audience could purchase directly from the catwalk. The screenings were broadcast in the 360° system. A new format has been added to the traditional forums and discussions - the Fashion Future Startup show, which allows innovative ideas to attract attention.
Star instagrammers and fashion bloggers in warm-toed sandals were freezing at the doors of the Moscow Manege.
In the foyer near the press wall and logos of the Week, the lucky ones who managed to get hold of invitations to the show were photographed. Individual guests drank at the bar, who were not sorry to shell out 500 rubles for a glass of pinot grigio.
The organization of the Russian Fashion Week is fundamentally different from the European ones. Most Western shows take place on the streets of the city and turn into a real show with themed decorations. So, during the recent Milan Fashion Week, the city plunged into the atmosphere of a carnival: new stores opened on the streets and brand presentations took place, shows were broadcast in boutiques and on one of the central streets of Via Montenapoleone, passing through the Fashion Quarter. A fashion exhibition opened at the Duomo metro station. In Russia, Fashion Week is an event that takes place year after year according to the same scenario in the Manege Central Exhibition Hall.
In Italy, Fashion Week is sponsored by the National Chamber of Fashion, in our country it is sponsored by the Mercedes-Benz automobile company. The Italian event contributes to the influx of tourists who want to feel the atmosphere of the sweet life at least during walks; in Russia, a fashionable party outside the Manezh goes only for a smoke break. As invited guests, there are Instagram stars and dozens of bloggers, whose wardrobes are often made up of skillfully selected mass-market items and budget analogues of European brands.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
At daytime shows, the first rows are occupied by girls in Zara cotton dresses, who take dozens of selfies during the fashion show much more interesting than looking at the new collection.
The main reasons why Russian designers lag behind their European counterparts in the international market are the lack of funding and the inability to run a business. Most Russian fashion designers are divided into two categories: children of wealthy parents who have good taste, but do not pay much attention to business strategies, and talented guys who do not have sponsors and quality materials(the fabric market in Russia leaves much to be desired, while in the same Italy this industry has been developing for years). Even designers seeking to create mass-market clothing are forced to face a lack of investment, difficulties in finding investors and the need to take out loans.
In European capitals, many fashion designers received grants to develop their business. LVMH (a well-known manufacturer of luxury goods under the brand names Givenchy, Guerlain, Chaumet, Moët & Chandon, Hennessy and others) organizes events, the winners of which receive money for their startups. In Russia, the Fashion Future Startup show appeared only this year.
Of the Russian designers with an international name, only they are heard, but they do not participate in Fashion Week Russia. At the same time, Rubchinsky owes his success to his Western colleagues.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
After the very first show at the stadium in Sokolniki, a lot of orders fell upon the fashion designer, which he could not fulfill.
And here the fashion house Comme Des Garçons came to the rescue, which helped the designer with the production and in 2010 began selling his clothes in the Dover Street Market store in London.
Nevertheless, every year Fashion Week Russia causes more and more excitement. Instagram pages of designers are exploding with messages from those who want to get to the show, dozens of students volunteer to work for free in order to see Russian fashion live at least with one eye, and social networks there are jokes about people who will check in at the party instead of watching the shows.
By tradition, he became the headliner of Fashion Week. The show "Improvisation No. 3" was divided by the maestro into separate blocks. The show began with a performance by Nadezhda Babkina and her Russian Song Theater.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
The designer does not change his ideas about high fashion, on the podium again the traditions of the Russian folk costume and a riot of colors.
Decor details became the novelty of the season: round buttons, ham sleeves and dropped shoulder line. As for the men's collection, it is hardly suitable for the capital's weather: cropped trousers and high hats may look extravagant, but few people dare to wear them.
The second day of the Fashion Week was opened by the show of Aida Robertova, winner of the Grand Prix of the competition for young and professional fashion designers named after. . The designer participates in a fashion show for the first time, and this can be seen with the naked eye.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
The spring-summer 2017 collection is not much different from the outfits that were available for sale in stores this summer.
Crop tops, loose trousers with a slit from the hip, trouser suits in black and white flowers, which look like a pajama party outfit, knee-length dresses with a loose cut and skirts with a high waist. All things are presented in classic colors: white, black, gray and river mother-of-pearl. There are no accessories. Instead of massive jewelry and geometric bags, which could add at least some chic to the collection, the designer offers only black and white ribbons around the neck.
The expressive St. Petersburg designer Saint-Tokio presented his collection to a live performance by the avant-garde experimental ensemble Shortparis, which took the audience into the atmosphere of a fashionable party. The concept of the new season is aggressive sexuality. Dresses studded with sparkling sequins, the fashion designer combines with leather jackets and parkas, boots with daring minis, and a top with thin straps flows into a ruffled bottom of the skirt, intercepted by tight leather.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
Add to this leopard prints, velvet, sequins and patent leather boots, which abound in the collection, and you can not worry that you will go unnoticed.
At the heart of the MD Mаkhmudov Djemal collection are feminine things. Here are bohemian hats, year-round skirts, elongated fitted jackets, ascot blouses, flared trousers and puffy evening dresses. Mythological symbols can be traced in the details: decorations and prints in the form of a semicircle-month, images of dragons on leather jackets and raincoats, backs and laces resembling a dragon's backbone.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
A joint line of children's clothing and presented the collection La Belle et la Bête based on the film "Beauty and the Beast". Designers offered a modern interpretation of Belle's style - golden pleated skirts, daring T-shirts, bombers, leather jackets, denim jackets, on which the heroes of the story are embroidered.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
The image was complemented by shoes and clutches, richly decorated with rhinestones.
The collection is designed in white, black, gold and powder colors.
Another children's show, perceived by the public with a bang, was presented by the FRUGOLETTO by RASCHINI brand. To the hit of the MBAND group “She will return”, the children presented the entire line of school clothes. The fashion show consisted of tweed suits, trapeze dresses, classic turtlenecks, fur vests and down jackets in bright colors.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
Bold solutions in an unusual interpretation were presented by Goga Nikabadze. Swimsuits, beach capes, flying dresses made of silk and translucent fabrics, high-waisted shorts and light coats are easy to imagine on the waterfront of some town. The outfits are designed in colors from peach shades to niagara and red, but the main thing in it is still gold.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
Golden robes set the tone for the entire show - it is impossible to forget them.
The Alena Akhmadullina show traditionally uses folklore stories and signature silhouettes.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
Dresses and ensembles from the first block are made in beige, lilac, turquoise and gold tones.
The second part of the show was dedicated to the Bird of Happiness, Winter Bouquet and Empire capsule collections, with patchwork fur trims and intricate embroideries. The designer designed the shoes and boots for the show herself. They are decorated with embroidery and have a characteristic transparent heel.
It is impossible to remain silent about the show of the Bezgraniz brand, which makes clothes for people with disabilities. The fashion show featured trousers, jackets, quilted down jackets and light coats, tailor-made for those who find it hardest to choose beautiful clothes.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
Moscow is a city of great opportunities! A lot is really possible here, and the fashion industry is a prime example of this. I no longer know a city where so many events called fashion week would take place at the same time. Unfortunately, quantity, in this case, is by no means an indicator of quality. Often this is a demonstration of show-offs - sometimes expensive, sometimes exaggerated. Fortunately, this season there are only two main fashion weeks in Moscow - Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia (MBFWR) and Volvo Fashion Week Moscow (VFW). They passed in October, with a difference of a week and in the neighborhood. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has moved to the Manege, which is literally a hundred steps from Gostiny Dvor, the permanent site of Volvo Fashion Week. Some joke that until the screenings take place in the Kremlin, the organizers will not calm down.
However, these eleven fashion days could be reduced to six. That is, up to one full week, where only true professionals would be presented, without interruptions for the dubious creations of yesterday's models and pop stars, dancing with tambourines on the catwalks and other madness that we, unfortunately, are forced to watch every season. Journalists and bloggers loyal to their work and Russian fashion have truly angelic patience and faith in success, huge and unshakable!
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia starts in 2002 when it was still called Russian Fashion Week. Having acquired a significant title partner in 2011 and standing on a par with the world's leading fashion weeks, MBFWR has changed markedly. The press service has become more polite, the schedule of screenings and additional events is more interesting, and the venue is more comfortable.
The move to Manezh was an important step forward, making this event comfortable for designers, for the press, and for guests. The organizers only have to eliminate their "signature" crush in front of the entrance to the podium area, which sooner or later will result in accidents and lawsuits.
Opening of the exhibition "Glory to Russian Fashion"
This season, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week celebrated its 25th anniversary season. The beginning of the week was preceded by the opening of the retrospective exhibition "Glory of Russian Fashion", dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the Slava Zaitsev Fashion House and the 50th anniversary of the work of Vyacheslav Zaitsev, who left the fashion week in Gostiny Dvor a few years ago and is now the headliner of MBFWR. His show traditionally opens the Week.
Final exit at the Vyacheslav Zaitsev show
The show schedule for the spring-summer 2013 season was impressive - already proven professionals, promising young designers and several foreign names.
This season, the collections of Svetlana Tegin, Dasha Gauser, Oleg Biryukov, Leonid Alekseev, Yegor Zaitsev, Marusya Zaitseva, the duet of Anna and Alexei Borodulin (Borodulin’s) have become worthy representatives of Russia on the fashion scene this season.
Show by Oleg Biryukov
Marusya Zaitseva's show was recognized as one of the best at MBFWR
Borodulin's collections are a tribute to the rich history of Russia. This season, Anna and Alexei were inspired by the unique frescoes of the icon painter Dionysius. The collection received a huge amount of positive feedback, including on the other side of the ocean. After this show, the design duo was invited to Miami Fashion Week.
An important point in the policy of MBFWR is the support of young designers, including in the presentation format. Every day, two designers have the opportunity to present their work to guests and journalists.
For some, this gives great opportunities, for example, the debutant of this season, Maria Golubeva, last season limited herself to a presentation and by the time of this debut she already had laudatory publications and the necessary connections.
Show by Maria Golubeva
Traditionally, eminent foreign houses became the guests-participants of the fashion week - this time Oswald Boateng and Giles Deacon from the UK, the Italian brand Pal Zilieri and the designer of the Thai royal family Somchai Kaetong (Kai).
Final appearance at the Ozwald Boateng show
Of course, not without a fly in the ointment. Despite the strictness of the selection of participants, the schedule still includes those whose collections do not correspond to the format of the Week. Fortunately for MBFWR, this is rather an exception. Currently, this event is the leader.
Volvo Fashion Week in Moscow is rooted in the nineties, when it was called High Fashion Week in Moscow and was held at the Rossiya State Central Concert Hall. The new time demanded changes, and since 2004 the event has been more private and professional in nature, and takes place in Gostiny Dvor. True, this is where the constancy ends, the week also changed its name and sponsors several times, but a few years ago the organizers enlisted the support of Volvo, so now the giants are fighting on two fronts - fashionable and automotive.
Not without regret, I note that the last few seasons the event is losing ground, and the organizers and participants are increasingly criticized. Leading designers disappear from the schedule, for example, Natasha Drigant, Kirill Gasilin, Natalia Kolykhalova and others did NOT show their collections on the catwalks of the Gostiny this season. Some of my colleagues note that this time valuable shows could fit in one day.
The week has opened with a traditional fashion show by Valentin Yudashkin, but this is already more of a tradition than a fashion. Over the next five days, we had a chance to see a fashion show from forty designers, but the list of leaders is much shorter - Dmitry Loginov, Victoria Andreyanova, Kira Plastinina, Daria Razumikhina, Lena Vasilyeva, Alena Akhmadullina and Alexander Arngoldt.
The brightest and most stylish show of Volvo Fashion Week - Dmitry Loginov, Arsenicum Nikon Fashion
Fashion show by Victoria Andreyanova
Final exit at the show of Daria Razumikhina
Final exit at Alena Akhmadullina's fashion show
Final appearance at the Arngoldt show
Once again, I want to note that in Russia there are talented and professional designers who are able to create collections and fashion shows at the world level. Unfortunately, they do not always have the necessary material base, but I want to believe that in the future investors will show more interest in our fashion industry.
I also hope that the pathos inherent in designers and organizers, as well as the craving for “hanging out” and competitions among bloggers “who has more invitations to the front row”, will go down in history. And they will be replaced by seriousness, responsibility and sincere love for what you do.
Photos provided by the press services of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and Volvo Fashion Week
VERY FASHIONABLE
If you have not read the news for the past two years and have been basking in patriotic suspended animation, we inform you that a severe crisis has come in the country. Remember how Normandy Camembert gradually disappeared from restaurants? That's about when it all started. And if you could not keep track of the elegiac dynamics of Brent oil prices, then you must follow the friend tape. In the winter of 2016, many preferred the native expanses of Rosa Khutor () to the ruinous slopes of St. Moritz, stopped giving champagne dinners and moved to the actual dumplings in Stoleshnikovo. It suddenly became fashionable to post selfies against the backdrop of the Crimean landscapes, and go to the banks of the Neva for a romantic weekend. Only a handful of Chanel and Alexander Wang-packed regulars will now be able to afford a trip to Western fashion weekends. The forced trend towards patriotism has led to the official golden age of domestic designers in Russia. All appearances and passwords are in our guide to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
STORY
Russian Fashion Week has been held in Moscow for 15 years. During this time, a Mercedes-Benz luxury prefix was added to the ascetic Russian Fashion Week, and the entire project moved to the Manege.
Any designer who has passed the qualifying competition can get into the main MBFW show schedule. Those wishing to participate are divided into four groups: legendary, celebrity, new and trash.
legends- individuals who should be called not designers, but fashion designers. For example, Vyacheslav Zaitsev (hurry up to enjoy while the empire he created is still controlled by Vyacheslav Mikhailovich himself) or even. These two hold shows on preferential terms, because they work at a cosmic level for the domestic textile industry.
Celebrities- like the singer Keti Topuria from A'Studio or the television modist and authority Alexander Rogov. They automatically get into the shortlist, as they promote the event in the media with their names alone.
Beginners- talented pioneers, timidly putting up fifteen models for selection, tailored to their own and sprinkled with their own blood and sweat. This spring, among them are SORRY, I "M NOT, already known to the Moscow public, as well as KSENIASERAYA, Leka, VIPERS, Portnoy Beso, MUUS Lena Maksimova, SALLE DE MODE.
Thrash- a crowd of self-confident figures of near-fashion with one crooked coat in a lookbook. Digging out among dozens of worthy candidates is as hard as finding at least one stylish bow on Olga Buzova's Instagram, that is, almost unrealistic.
But the organizers are not only proud of their Russian citizens: it is fundamentally wrong to consider the Week as a local cabal. On the metropolitan site, the collection was represented, for example, by the Englishwoman Jenny Packham - Kate Middleton and Angelina Jolie flaunt in her dresses. Designers Matthew Williamson and even Vivienne Westwood personally shined at the Week. American Vogue published a review of the most interesting shows of last spring, and overseas fashion bloggers do not stop comparing the Moscow Manege with the American Lincoln Center, where New York Fashion Week takes place.
MUST-SEE
Vyacheslav Zaitsev. Maestro, the hallmark of MBFW - and that's not all. From the first ladies to the colorless heroines of the "Fashionable Sentence" - Vyacheslav dressed everyone. Shows are usually delayed, so be patient and properly recharge your personal iPhone - a gadget with a 10-20% charge will not live up to half of the show.
Yulia Dalakyan. From year to year it demonstrates adequate women's clothing that can actually be worn. Be sure to come to the show - if not for inspiration, then for the sake of photography in an embrace with regular guests Sergei Zverev or Konstantin Andrikopoulos (depending on mood).
Alena Akhmadullina. Fairy-tale Alyonushka arranges, perhaps, the most spectacular shows at MBFW, and it's not just about well-chosen models. A giant rook in the middle of the podium - isn't that an argument? There are much fewer invitations than those who want to come, so leave a request in advance at the Nikolskaya boutique.
Creators from the hills of Georgia. A powerful Transcaucasian presence is a sign of the last few seasons. You could say it's already a tradition. Representatives of the most stylish state of the Near East during the Week consistently demonstrate to Muscovites from the heels of international collections.
WHO IS COMING
Star Guard. Every more or less successful designer has trump comrades. The winners of the “Golden Gramophone” come to one to shine, the second has a #frontrow filled with actors of the domestic arthouse, fashion editors of the Internet media lick on the clothes of the third. The first ranks are created for all these guardsmen.
Fashion party. The bodies of street style queens, artists and class B party-goers appear from time to time in gossip columns (but only on websites), and faces sometimes end up on Tima Kolesnikov’s Instagram (in the background behind Alexei “Kisa” and beautiful highballs). They come at the invitation of a familiar designer. They run to the show without taking off the parks, so that immediately after the show they run away to the next event.
Fancy perches. Aspiring journalists, hip-hatted teenagers, YouTube freaks, and humanities students in homemade edgy outfits. Invitations to the show were either won through a contest on Instagram or picked up at the exit from the Manege. They come two hours before the show, make circles around the pavilion, languish in lines for free styling, broadcast everything that happens on Periscope.
Special guests, that is, especially valuable guests. Real buyers of designer works are the financial guarantor of future shows. Deservedly received invitations for years of wearing embroidered coats from ____ (substitute the name of any Russian designer).
Alupka-1962. Post-Balzac women in outerwear, which from morning to evening go to shows. The most grateful MBFW viewers watched all the shows attentively, although they do not remember a single designer by name. They will kindly tell you where to get an invite to the after-party (where only they eventually come).
BUSINESS PROGRAM
Designers are not businessmen. If a person understands both silks and the intricacies of competent product placement, then these are two different people. No matter how much Fonvizinsky Mitrofanushka tries to combine the cutting of the latest copy of the Vetements sweatshirt with the negotiations at the Central Department Store, nothing sensible comes out of this: you need to look for a manager. But for aspiring designers who PR themselves, MBFW came up with a business program. Here you can finally look beyond your own nose with a fashionable earring from Evgenia Linovich in your right nostril: listen to useful lectures, and simply make yourself known.
The main event of the business program of this season is the Fashion Futurum international conference, where 30 industry leaders will discuss changes in the fashion world at a round table. Among them are representatives of Milan Fashion Week, Polimoda Dean Danilo Venturi and editors of leading fashion magazines from Italy.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, which has just ended in Moscow, has become rich not only in high-profile parties and strong shows of popular domestic designers, but also in new talents. This time among the participants, in addition to domestic brands, there were guests from other countries, in total, during the shows, the works of 217 designers were presented. In the neon lights of the Manezh, many brands began their journey through the fashion space of Russia, so we decided to tell you about the most interesting young talents of Moscow Fashion Week, whose shows were held in the Mercedes-Benz hall.
Red September
Olga Vasyukova, the founder of Red September, graduated from the Fashion Design course at Polimoda and decided not to delay organizing her business. So in 2018, a creative association appeared, inspired by the spirit of perestroika to create menswear. The autumn-winter 2019 collection bears the brutal name Sons of Anarchy: “I designed and sewed many prototypes at night after a working day, often without even a mannequin at hand. The collection has become a kind of concentrate of all emotions and impressions from locations and meetings with new people,” says Vasyukova. At MBFW, the brand's team paid maximum attention to the study of the shoulders in the form of a tetra pak, and the main material was leather - Olga's favorite material. Red September plans are serious and grandiose: “It's time to discuss the mistakes and move on. Now the most intensive work is underway.”
Red September autumn-winter 2019
LES' by Lesia Paramonova
Lesya Paramonova first showed her collection at the Cycles & Seasons by MasterCard fashion week back in 2012, and now she is participating in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia program. Lesya loves to collect children's books from all over the world and make girls happier, and this spirit of magical childish spontaneity is felt in each of her collections, including the autumn-winter 2019 season. This time we saw nymphs from a fairy tale dressed in transparent capes and flying dresses with mysterious prints reminiscent of kaleidoscope patterns. Paramonova approaches the details of each item with trepidation: the collection includes tapestry inserts, fine hand-embroideries and belts created from ropes.
LES’ by Lesia Paramonova autumn-winter 2019
1377
Behind the rebellious façade of the underground menswear label 1377, founded in 2017, stands young designer Alexandra Zhurina. This season, even the invitations to the MBFW show were with some kind of maximalist rebellious touch: “We don’t know you personally, and you don’t know us either.” But, judging by the brand's plans for the future and the ideas promoted in the collections, it's still worth learning about 1377. Each clothing collection is filled with echoes of the past, and this season Zhurina interpreted the costumes of simple working guys of the early 20th century in her own way. So models appeared on the catwalk in dashingly shifted caps, quilted coats, jackets made of felted wool. At the same time, it was not without deconstructed vests and futuristic trousers with “aprons”.
