Ethnography. The main elements of the Tajik folk costume National clothes of the peoples of Tajikistan

National clothes of the peoples of Tajikistan

Titles of illustrations

Description of illustrations

1. An old dress dress of a young woman from Leninabad, who was preparing to leave the house. Consists of a satin dress with a stand-up collar - kurta worn over kuynakcha- a cropped bottom dress with a pleated stand-up collar, and trousers. A vest is put on the top dress - kamzulcha. On the feet are black ichigi with galoshes. A large silk scarf, folded diagonally in half, is thrown over the head, on which a small scarf folded in a strip with paper laid in its folds is tied around the head, and a piece of jewelry is put on it. bargak, consisting of a number of hinged gilded square plates with pendants, inlaid with colored glass eyes, turquoise and corals. On top of all this complex headdress is thrown a veil of heavy semi-silk material. banoras local production, trimmed with silk braid and embroidery. In the hands - a hairnet - chashmband, which a woman must put on her face under a veil before leaving the female half of the house. Jewelry is called: earrings- x,alk,a or goushvor, supratemporal pendants - kach, ak, coral necklace - March, he, over it is a necklace of stamped silver plates with pendants, called paikoncha or tavk and gardan; Yes, two pairs of pendants in the form of rectangles with coral beads are hung on the sides of the chest, of which the upper pair is called sarkifty, and the second pair kushtumor. In the middle of the chest, below the coral necklace, hanged bozband- a case for protective prayer, and below it - tumor, i.e. the same case for prayer, but triangular in shape. Underneath all these ornaments hangs a large necklace - x;aykal or zebi cina, consisting of plates connected by multi-row (usually 7) chains, inlaid with colored glass eyes, turquoise and decorated with false filigree, granulation and pendants. The bottom plate is made larger than the rest. Rings are worn on the index and ring fingers of the right hand - Angustarin, on hands - bracelets - dastpon. Braids are woven with heavy tassels of black silk threads with silver decorations, called chochpopuk. The drawing is made on the background of Leninabad suzani, embroidered before the revolution. On the floor there is a lint-free carpet made by the Tajiks of Zeravshan-k. Jijik.

2. An old dress for a plain Tajik woman, consisting of a dress with a standing collar - kurtai ititso, sewn from semi-silk handicraft adras, dyed by dressing - abrbandy. A camisole is put on over the dress - camisole from striped fabric bekasab. Bloomers are tucked into ichigi with leather galoshes. The head is tied with a small silk handkerchief, and over it with a large handkerchief. Decoration on the chest bozband, inside of which a piece of paper was inserted with a written prayer of protection.

3. An old evening dress of an elderly townswoman from the northern regions of Tajikistan, consisting of a silk dress with a vertical slit of the collar, sewn from factory-made heavy silk fabric<lady>. On top is a dressing gown made of local silk of the canaus type, called rumcha lined with black velvet. The head is tied with a thin cotton scarf - king, over which a silk scarf is tied - durra with paper laid in its folds. On the legs are leather ichigi with galoshes. Bloomers are tucked into ichigi.

4. Outfit of a girl or young woman from Leninabad, which existed for the first time after the veil fell into disuse. Consists of red hl.-b. dresses - kurta with a turn-down collar and a yoke, harem pants - lozimi or poich, ohm from colorful factory fabric, trimmed with colored ribbon sneeze, ak. On the feet are shoes made of colored leather. A large woolen scarf is thrown over the head, which is held by the edges with the teeth. The drawing is made from nature. On the background - suzani- a bedspread made of handicraft silk, dyed by the method of dressing, over which the Ura-Tube decorative embroidery is hung - zardevory. Bed on the floor gilemi zindakoni- a lint-free seamless carpet woven on a vertical loom in the village of Zindakon (Penjikent district of the TajSSR) in 1945.

5. Modern mourning costume of an old woman from Leninabad, consisting of a long cotton-boom. stand-up collar dresses kurtai itik, oh over which a robe is worn chaponi rumcha sewn from semi-silk fabric bek, asabi zirragy and girded with a sash of old handicraft printed matter - futai hama-zeb wrapped around the waist three times. The head is tied with a small black scarf - durrai siskh, over which is tied a large muslin scarf-k, arsi istanbul and its ends are thrown over the back. Bloomers are tucked into black ichigi worn with galoshes. No jewelry is to be worn during mourning. A lint-free carpet is laid on the floor - a carpet made by Tajiks from the Shing River Valley (Zerafshan).

6. The traditional suit of the groom from Leninabad, which existed until recently, consists of an undershirt - kurt, yaktak with trousers - ezor, sewn from handicraft fabric of local production under the surkh, dyed by the method of dressing abrbandy with stains of red and yellow on a white background. The collar of the shirt is made in the form of a vertical cutout in the middle of the chest with a collar sewn to it, standing at the back and fading to nothing in front. A dressing gown is put on top - a chapon made of handicraft semi-silk fabric under the zan-gor, dyed by the method of dressing. The collar, skirts, hem and ends of the sleeves of the robe are sheathed with white braid woven on the arms - h, them, ak. Two embroidered scarves are tied over the dressing gown - rumol: silk colored and cotton white. In the old days, the groom was supposed to tie scarves under a dressing gown, over a shirt. On the head is a skullcap with a flat square top, on which a silk or paper turban-salla is sometimes tied. On the feet are boots - a muse of yellow chrome. The drawing was made from nature in the village of Unji, Leninabad district. Background - decorative embroidery suzani from Samarkand, on the floor there is a lint-free carpet - sholgil made by Tajiks of the valley of the river. Shing (Zerafshan).

7. A modern suit of a young man from Leninabad, consisting of a black satin quilted robe - chaponi ch,ih, akdori san-duff, sheathed along the sides, floors and ends of the sleeves with narrow purple braid braided on the arms - ch,ih,ak. Two Obscure scarves are tied over the Robe - rumol: white cotton and yellow rayon. Both scarves are embroidered with a pattern<след змея>. On the head is a black silk skullcap embroidered with white silk with a flat quadrangular top - tustuppy. On the feet are black ichigi with galoshes. Under the dressing gown is a blank shirt with a vertical slit collar - a kurta and white trousers, over which are dark trousers tucked into ichigi.

8. The old costume of an elderly citizen, consisting of an overcoat made of blue factory-made cloth-chakmani mozhut, put on a cotton quilted dressing gown - chapon or ch, oma from Karatag semi-silk alachi in yellow and black stripes-zafar fly, girded with a white cotton shawl. b. rumol fabrics, decorated with a border embroidered with black threads. The robes are worn over a camisole - a camisole made of factory-made black leotards with white stripes. The camisole is sewn with a stand-up collar and welt pockets, fastened with three buttons. Under the camisole there are white cotton harem pants and a shirt with a horizontal slit collar trimmed with braid, called kurtai chikhakdor. On the head is a skullcap made of gray velvet, decorated with an embroidered white ornament and trimmed along the edge with a black silk strip. A turban made of white woolen factory fabric - sallai tibit is wrapped over the skullcap. Footcloths - paytoba, leather ichigi-boots with soft soles and rubber galoshes are on the feet.

9. Ancient costume of a bride from Samarkand, consisting of a brocade dress - kurtai kimhob with a standing collar fastened with buttons. It is worn on two others, of which the middle one is silk kurtai tosfarang, and the lower one is made of white cotton. fabrics with a standing collar trimmed with pleats. A black vest-kaltacha, kamzulcha is worn over the dresses. A gold-embroidered skullcap is worn on the head, with a tassel on its side. It is covered with a silk scarf - k, arsi farangi chorgul with bouquets of flowers woven at the corners, and on top of the scarf is put on a forehead decoration - k, oshi tillo, which is a thinly gilded silver openwork diadem on the front part, inlaid with colored glass eyes and turquoise and decorated on the bottom edge with pendants made of stamped leaf-shaped plates interspersed with mother-of-pearl beads. Above the temples of the bride are attached jewelry kach,ak, in the ears are earrings with pendants made of low-grade emeralds and rubies with pearl piercings, called khalkai yakkadur. Behind the ears are suspended zulf-two metal openwork tubes inlaid with turquoise, each of which has a strand of hair bent in a semicircle. Under braided hair, to the back of the waistcoat, choch-popuk-pendants are pinned, consisting of twelve black silk laces ending in tassels with silver and niello ornaments in the form of tubes, beads and caps. On the sides, tanga pendants are attached to the hair, each consisting of two rows of silver coins connected by rings and loops. Two necklaces are worn around the neck: an upper tavk, and a gardan or guluband, consisting of leaflets strung on two parallel threads with pendants in the form of a crescent and a star; bottom-march, it is from 16 threads of corals; below it, in the middle of the chest, hangs a large rectangular case for protective prayer - kultuktumor with two yellow stones inserted, and even lower is hung a large chest necklace - haikal or zebi sina, consisting of plates connected by multi-row chains, inlaid with colored glass eyes and turquoise and decorated filigree, granulation and pendants, with the lowest plate being larger than the others. On the sides below the shoulders, on the chest there are two triangular cases for protective prayer-tumor, with pendants made of coins and beads. Over the entire outfit, a sarandosi round tulle coverlet cut in the shape of a semicircle is thrown over the bride's head. The diameter of the semicircle is trimmed with colored braid and fringe with sparkles. The bedspread itself is embroidered with a chain stitch with colored threads. The bride is shod in black ichigi-makhs, in which trousers are tucked in, and galoshes made of patent leather-kafsh. In his hand is a velvet handkerchief-dastrumol, embroidered and fringed with sequins and beads, which serves to cover the lower part of the face. The drawing is made against the background of the Samarkand suzani, on the floor there is a blanket-bugchoma, sewn from lint-free patterned fabric made by the Tajiks of the valley of the river. Shing (Zerafshan), woven at the beginning of the 20th century.

10. An ancient costume of a young man from Samarkand, consisting of a dressing gown worn over underwear - a chapon, ch, oma of Bukhara cut from a striped Kitab semi-silk alachi. The dressing gown is belted with a then fashionable belt - a kamarband made of gold galloon with sewn on filigree plaques and a buckle with tassels). A second dressing gown of the same cut is put on top, also from the Kitab alachi, dyed by the bandaging method - abrbandy. A colored turban is tied around the head - salla (drawn from a photograph of a young Samarkand Tajik from Kraft's book). On her feet are fashionable boots - a muse with high heels (also copied from a photograph of an official - aksakal in the same book).

11. An old outfit for a Tajik townswoman, consisting of a velvet veil-faranch, and a hairnet-chashmband. A velvet dress-kurta is visible from under the veil. On the feet are black ichigi and leather galoshes. Elderly women tied their heads with a scarf under a veil, while young women began to wear a skullcap with a scarf. It was usually believed that no colored outfits could be seen from under the burqa, and therefore the burqa was supposed to be made long, but this was almost never observed.

12. Ancient elegant costume of a Bukhara young woman, consisting of three dresses worn one on top of the other - a kurta: the lower one is white with the ends of the sleeves embroidered with a tambour; the second is made of canaus with gold-embroidered ends of the sleeves, trimmed with a braid along the edge; the third is made of Karshi semi-silk alachi and is richly decorated with gold embroidery. Brocade harem pants-poych, oma along the edge are sheathed with braid - zeh, and pocha. On his feet are gold-embroidered shoes - kafshi zarduzy (the style was taken from the shoes in the Dushanbe Republican Museum of Local History). A skullcap is put on the head, a gold-embroidered bandage-peshonaband is tied over it, and a factory-made silk scarf with a wide border woven with silver thread is thrown over it. The hair is braided into small braids and decorated with pendants from a row of silk laces with knobs of gold threads at the ends - tufi kalo-batun. Jewelry consists of supratemporal pendants - kach, ak and gushvor or kh, alka earrings with pendants made of low-grade rubies and emeralds. On the neck is a necklace made of stamped silver plates - tavki gardan with pendants, a coral brand necklace with openwork silver gilded beads - kadmola and a large necklace - h;aykal or zebi sina from 7 plates with pendants connected by multi-row chains, decorated with enamel and a floral convex pattern. The drawing is made against the background of an old Bukhara decorative suzani embroidery.

13. An ancient evening dress of a young woman from Bukhara, consisting of three dresses worn one on top of the other - a kurta with a vertical slit of the collar: the bottom is white chl.-b. with scalloped collar-kurtai kuynakcha and sewn with gold-embroidered silk ends of the sleeves-sarostini zarduzi; the second is made of silk tiru kamon (rainbow); the third is made of heavy silk fabric, decorated with velvet gold-embroidered braid - foot kurta or zekhi kurta. The dresses are worn with a swinging robe at the waist and with gathers on the sides - munisak or kaltacha made of silk fabric with pink and black velvet leaves woven with silk. A gold-embroidered skullcap is put on the head, on which is thrown a large silvery silk scarf with bouquets of flowers woven in the corners. A gold-embroidered bandage-peshonaband with a pattern of mach, nunbed (weeping willow) is tied on a scarf. A silk kerchief-rido woven with gold is thrown over the bandage, made from a scarf, cut diagonally in half, brought from Afghanistan. Bloomers are tucked into Kazan ichigi from pieces of multi-colored morocco - these irok, th, which are worn with leather galoshes with a low back - kafsh. Jewelry in Bukhara was not abused, but they tried to have good things. In the figure, a string of beads made of polished low-grade rubies and emeralds interspersed with filigree silver or gold beads - k, admola - is worn around the neck, and a gold pendant - tappish with a red stone in the middle and with pendants made of the same beads, should be worn in the ears earrings.

14. An ancient costume of a rich young man from Bukhara, consisting of a dressing gown worn over underwear - a chapon, ch, oma of Bukhara cut from a striped Karshi semi-silk alachi, belted with a silk rumol scarf. On top is put on a second robe of the same cut, sewn from Russian brocade. On the head is a silk turban - dastor, tied to a gold-embroidered cone-shaped skullcap of white velvet. Black ichigi with leather galoshes are worn on the legs. The drawing is made against the background of a velvet gold-embroidered bedspread of Bukhara work - takyapushi zarduzy.

15. An ancient dress for a young woman from Bukhara, consisting of three dresses worn one on top of the other - a kurta with a vertical slit of the collar: the bottom is white cotton. with a scalloped collar and sleeves adorned with embroidered inscriptions in Arabic letters, a second silk with gold-embroidered sleeves and a third of heavy silk fabric<дама>. Bloomers are tucked into black ichigi, which are worn with leather galoshes. A gold-embroidered skullcap with a tassel is put on the head, on which is thrown a large silk scarf with woven bouquets in the corners, and a gold-embroidered bandage-peshonaband is tied to the scarf. A gas scarf is thrown over the bandage - rumoli X, arir, folded diagonally in half. Of the jewelry, only a coral necklace and obligatory earrings are worn. A brocade veil with a hairnet to cover the face is thrown over the head - a chashmbband, thrown back.

16. Kh, aikal or zebi sina - breast decoration of Tajik women of the lowland regions made of plates inlaid with colored glass with turquoise and decorated with false filigree and granulation with pendants connected by chains with coral beads.

17. Jewelry of Tajik women of mountainous and lowland areas. On the top left are now existing silver earrings with five pendants made of spirally twisted wires, coral beads and grained threads, called gushvori chaparak. Purchased in Kulyab (Southern Tajikistan). Above on the right are old silver baldock earrings, brought before the revolution from Bukhara and Ura-Tyube. In the center of the table is a khalk, ai ghazal or bushak, a bibishak-anchor-shaped decoration, hung behind the ears by the hair, inlaid with multi-colored beads and turquoise and with coral and glass beads pendants. It used to be in the villages of the northern regions of the republic at the beginning of the 20th century. Bottom left silver gilded earrings- x; alk, ai yakkadur with pendants of small pearls and large low-grade rubies and emeralds. They were in vogue in cities at the beginning of the 20th century. Bottom right antique silver earrings- x,alk,a from two plates inlaid with colored glass and beads with mother-of-pearl beads pendants. They existed in cities in the north of the republic at the beginning of the 20th century.

18. Headdresses of Tajik women of the plains. Above - an old headband for a middle-aged woman: a lower white scarf - pushed over the king's forehead and folded along the edge - h, imch, ima, and a small scarf is tied on top - durra black or some dark color, paper is laid in the folds of the handkerchief. Below, modern ways of tying a scarf at home by an elderly woman (left) and an old woman (frame). The drawings were made from life in the city of Leninabad.

19. Modern headdresses of Tajik women of the plains. Above - the headband of an elderly woman, consisting of a white scarf - k,ars with the ends thrown over the shoulders and back, over which a small black scarf is tied - durrai shise; with paper inside. At the bottom is the same bandage, but over a black scarf a strip of thin white matter, called lok,y, is also tied crosswise. This is how the grandmother and mother of the boy are tied on the day of his circumcision. The drawings were made from life in the city of Leninabad.

20. Modern headdresses of Tajik women of mountainous and lowland areas. Above is the headdress of a young Tajik woman from Nizhny Karategin (Mountainous Tajikistan): a skullcap is pulled over her forehead and a diagonally folded colored scarf is tied over it, the ends of which are tied at the back of the head with a double-sided bow. This method of tying a scarf is called sumbul (hyacinth). The drawing was made from life in Dushanbe. Below are ways of tying a headscarf by girls and young women in the northern regions of the republic. The drawings were made from life in the city of Leninabad.

21. Headdresses of Tajik women of mountainous and lowland areas. Above on the left is the headdress of a bride from the Kulyab region: a large colored silk scarf is thrown over her head - rumol, folded diagonally. On top of it is tied a small scarf with paper laid inside, on which is put a silver decoration - silsila from figures of various shapes connected by ringlets with pendants along the lower edge. Above to the right is a Kulyab young woman in a muslin scarf with embroidered ends, called sarandoz or lattai nakshiny. One of the ends is thrown over the head. The drawings are made from photographs taken at the Institute from nature. Bottom left - the manner of tying a headscarf by the women of Karategin and Darvaz when leaving the house and when meeting strangers. The drawing was made from life in Dushanbe. Below on the right is the headdress of a Tajik young woman from Nur-Ata, resembling a turban. A lachak is tied under the chin - a piece of fabric covering the neck, the lower corners of which are twisted towards the middle. The drawing was made from a photograph taken by A.K. Pisarchik in Nur-Ata in 1938.

22. Modern skullcaps of the Tajiks of the plains. Above - tuppia, sewn in Ura-Tyube in 1960, below the tuppia chaman-dagul, also sewn in Ura-Tyube at the end of the 40s.

23. Ancient headdresses of the Tajiks of the lowland regions. Above on the left is a merchant's turban, on the right is a clergyman's turban. Below on the left is a peasant's turban, on the right is a fur hat - a body pack of a middle-aged man from Kanibadam. The turban drawings are copied from photographs in Kraft's book.1 The cap drawing is copied from a photograph of a Kanibadam resident taken in 1917.

24. Ancient mourning costume of a young woman from Karatag (Central Tajikistan), consisting of a dress of black satin with blue flowers, worn over an underdress made of cotton. matter. Bloomers are tucked into ichigi worn with galoshes. Over the dress there is a dressing gown with a waist and with ruffles on the sides - a munisak made of Karatag silk alachi, dyed using the abrbandy dressing method. The dressing gown is belted with a white silk turban-sallai simobi. A scarf is thrown over the head. The braids are lowered to the chest and their ends are loose. There are no decorations, because. They are not supposed to be worn during mourning.

25. A modern bride's costume from Kulyab (Southern Tajikistan), consisting of a tunic-shaped satin dress with a vertical slit collar and harem pants - poich, oma or lozimy, the lower part of which, visible from under the dress, is made of striped silk fabric - bekasab, and top - from chintz. On her feet are pointed leather shoes with a small heel - kaf-shi chaky. A muslin shawl-scarf with embroidered ends, called sarandoz or lattai natsshini, is thrown over the head over a small scarf and a silver silsila jewelry put on it.

26. Modern costume of a young woman from Kulyab (Southern Tajikistan), consisting of an embroidered satin dress with a vertical slit collar-kurtai nakshini and satin harem pants-poychoma or lozimy. The head is covered with a muslin scarf with embroidered ends - sarandoz or lattai nakshiny, one end of which is lowered onto the back, and the other one covers the chest and front of the dress. On her feet are leather shoes with kafshi chaky heels.

27. Modern costume of a young woman from the village of Nushor (Mountainous Tajikistan, Karategin), consisting of an embroidered satin dress - kurtai gulduzi, worn over an underdress made of cotton. fabrics with embroidered sleeves and a standing collar - kurtai sarostindori girebonash k, azo-k, and trousers - poich, oma from Chinese silk. On her feet are factory-made shoes with small heels. A gas scarf-rumoli x,arir is thrown over the head. Jewelry consists of earrings in the shape of a hemispherical bell with gushvori k, afasy pendants, a necklace of coins and beads - a tanga with a triangular case for protective prayer - tumor, and a second necklace of corals and metal openwork beads, called marchon.

28. A modern costume of a young woman from Kalai-Khumb (Mountainous Tajikistan, Darvaz), consisting of an embroidered satin dress with a vertical slit of the collar - kurtai chakandu-ziya peshchokak, worn over an underdress made of cotton. fabrics-kurtai takh; pushii son, with a collar trimmed with a pleated frill - gireboni parpar, and trousers - poich, oma, lozimy, tanbon, the bottom of which is sewn from semi-silk fabric-bekasab. On his feet are factory shoes. On the head is a skullcap embroidered with a cross, and a factory-made silk scarf is thrown over it. Jewelry consists of hulk or gushvor earrings with two pendants, a hafaband neckband with beads and corals, a mother-of-pearl sadaf brooch and a necklace made of glass and silver filigree beads. On the arm is a bracelet made of dastak beads.
29. Ancient costume of a girl from Darvaz (Mountainous Tajikistan), consisting of a dress with a horizontal slit collar - kurtai shoinak from handicraft cotton. matter of local production, called kurtachii vamynch, a. The chest is decorated with a bib - shoinak, made of white karbos and embroidered with smooth silk untwisted threads. The cuffs of the sleeves - sarostin - are decorated with cross-stitching, and below the elbows on the sleeves there are sewn stripes embroidered with a cross - cho-beek, in the middle of which, in the old days, a cut was made for sticking hands during work. Under the dress, trousers are worn - poich, oma, lozim, tanbon, the lower part of which, visible from under the dress, is sewn from local handicraft striped cotton. Siyah matter, alocha. A scarf is thrown over the head - sobai k, azini, sewn from three panels of locally produced silk cloth, called kazin, and dyed using the dressing method - gulbandy. Two artificial braids with large tassels of churai kattapulkak threads are woven into the hair. On the neck there is a beaded ornament - guluband, in the ears - earrings - gushvor. On the feet are leather shoes - kafshi chaky.

30. Festive costume of a young woman from Darvaz (Mountainous Tajikistan) in an ancient headdress, consisting of a dress with a vertical slit collar-kurtai peshchokak, sewn from locally produced silk cloth - k, azin, dyed by the dressing method - gul-bandy. The collar of the dress is decorated with a double row of silk braid with sewn on silver plates - sitora, having the shape of a star and a crescent. Such decoration is called mavchi sitora, i.e.<волна звезд>. Under the dress, trousers are worn - poich, oma from chl.-b. factory-made fabric, on the feet are leather kafshi chaky shoes. A scarf is thrown over the head - sobai k, azin, sewn from three panels of silk fabric of local production-execution, measuring 167 cm X 109 cm, over which the head is tied with an embroidered headband - mandil or sarbandak. On the chest is a necklace of multi-colored beads and beads, called shavgin, the collar of the dress is fastened with a metal brooch - sadafi pesh, on the neck there is a beaded kashelak bandage, on the arm is a challa ring with an eye made of carnelian-aknk, in the ears are earrings - gushvor.

31. Ancient costume of an elderly peasant from Darvaz (Mountainous Tajikistan), consisting of a quilted dressing gown - h, om, sewn from local cotton. materials are shining, an alocha lined with karbos in ‘white and yellow stripes - karbosi mallagy and girded with a scarf - loki from white karbos. Under the robe, a yaktak or aktai is worn - a robe made of white karbos with a yellow stripe, and under it is a shirt made of white karbos with a horizontal slit of the collar - kurtai kiftak and deaf trousers-ezori mardin, sewn from the same karbos. On the feet are boots with soft soles - choruki balandak, with ties at the ankle - bandi choruk, and instead of galoshes - wooden shoes - kafshn chubin. The boots are worn on ornamented and knitted without a heel woolen chulmi-churab, over which woolen windings-paytoba are wound from the ankle to half of the shin. On the head is an embroidered skullcap made of black satin with a cone-shaped tulle-tok, and a half-woolen turban is wound over it - sallai moshovy.

32. Jewelry of Tajik women of mountainous regions. At the top is a bandage around the throat made of beads and corals - a hafaband from Karategin. Below it is a round silver brooch for pinning the collar of a dress - kulfi gi-rebon from the Kulyab region. Below is a coral necklace - march, it is from Karategin. From the side to the right (from top to bottom) an earring - gushvori k, afasn from the Kulyab region, under it is a triangular case for protective prayer-tumorcha from Karategin, below it is a bracelet made of beads-dastak from Darvaz, below in the corner is a ring - challai niginador from the region Kulyab. On the left side is an earring with two pendants - x, alk, a from the Kulyab region, under it is a pendant made of barley straw and beads - a chavak from the village of Gezan, Penjikent region.
33. Wedding front curtain of Tajik women of mountainous regions - ruband or chashmband, purchased in the village of Rog (upper reaches of the Zeravshan River), where it was brought from the village of Khilmoni (Mountainous Tajikistan, Karategin). Made of karbos, embroidered with non-twisted silk threads and sheathed along the edge with silk braid, which was simultaneously woven on the hands and sewn on. In the upper part in the middle is a mesh for the eyes. Curtain size 65x80 cm.
34. The old costume of a young woman from Rushan (Western Pamirs) consisted of a dress with a vertical slit collar - a kurt, sewn from white karbos or white woolen ragza fabric of local production, occasionally from factory fabrics. Under the dress they wore trousers - tanbon, which they tried to make from colored fabrics. On the feet are soft boots - peh, tied at the ankles with braided pehband laces, and woolen stockings - churab. In cold weather, a robe was worn over the dress - a guilem made of white homespun cloth, the floors, hem and sleeves of which were sheathed with a cord of dark woolen threads and sometimes, in addition to this, they were embroidered with the same threads, as shown in the table. Slits were made on the sleeves - kurob for sticking hands during work. The head was tied with a large scarf - dastor, the ends of which descended almost to the ground. The drawing was made in Barushan from nature. Against the background is a carved door of a house sketched in Khorog (Western Pamir, Shugnan).
35. The ancient costume of a bride from Shugnan (Western Pamirs), who was preparing to move to her husband’s house, consisted of a tunic-shaped shirt dress with a vertical slit collar - kurtai rostovgirebon and with long, narrow sleeves at the end with holes cut below the elbow - kurob, into which put their hands out while working. The dress was sewn from white karbos or white woolen ragza, and only wealthy people could sew dresses from factory-made cotton. or silk fabrics. In the cold season, a woolen robe was worn over the dress - gilemi tsatma or stsgany - chapon. Under the dress they put on trousers - tanbon, put on stockings - h, irib and boots with soft soles - peh, tied at the ankle with braided laces - pehband. The headdress consisted of several scarves: first, they tied the head with a white scarf - piryurm, over it they put on the face a chashmbband - a curtain made of paper fabric embroidered with fillet technique, or a thin silk scarf - fida, or chl.-b. scarf - dastorcha, dyed with the technique of bandaging. A large colored scarf, usually cashmere, called shol, was thrown over the curtain at an angle forward, and on top - a large white coverlet - savorchodar, which was tied around the head with an embroidered headband - sarbandak. On the table, all three top handkerchiefs are thrown back. The sketch was made from nature in Porshnev.
36. Modern costume of an old peasant from Shugnan (Western Pamir), consisting of a robe - gilem, sewn from homespun felted cloth - k, atma. An old woolen sash is tied over the dressing gown - miend of such length that it can be wrapped around the waist twice. Under the dressing gown they put on a shirt - kurta and trousers - tanbon. On the feet are soft boots made of rawhide, put on long ornamented stockings - pehch, irib so that the latter are visible above the tops of the boots. At the ankles, the boots are tightly tied with a woolen lace - pehband. On the head is a skullcap - pakol, over which is tied a turban - salla. The table was made from nature in the village of Pashor (Western Pamir, Shugnan).

37. A modern bride's costume from Ishkashim (Western Pamirs), consisting of a shirt-dress - a tunic-shaped shavy with pleats under the armpits and with embroidered collars and cuffs, and harem pants - poich, oma, which are now usually sewn from some bright-colored fabric. The dress is sewn from thin white woolen fabric - locally made ragza or cotton. matter. On the legs are ornamented stockings - churab and boots with soft soles - kuvd, tied at the ankle with a lace woven from multi-colored woolen threads - kuvdband. On the head is an embroidered skullcap with a flat round top - kuloh, over which is thrown a white veil - dastor, also made of ragza or karbos. Earrings are threaded into the ears - gushvor, on the neck is a beaded necklace called guluband, and below, on the chest, beads are mura made of corals with a pendant in the middle. In her hands the bride holds a painted tambourine - daf. The table was made from life in Ryn, against the backdrop of a local dwelling.
38. The modern suit of the groom from Ishkashim consists of a white cotton shirt - a kurt with an embroidered collar and cuffs and wide trousers - ezor, tucked into ornamented woolen stockings - churab. A vest is put on over the shirt - kaltacha or wax. On the head is a skullcap - kuloh;, on which a turban is wrapped - salla, usually made of thin white muslin, called dastor. On the feet - leather boots with soft soles - k, uvd, tightly tied at the ankle with a kuvdband lace woven from woolen threads. A red handkerchief imitating a rose is tucked behind the turban - a rumble. The table is made from nature in Ryn.
39. Headdresses of Tajik women of the Western Pamirs. Above on the left is a festive headband of a young woman, called kur, over a shawl thrown over, a patterned braided ribbon k is wrapped around the head three times, instead of which an embroidered strip of material - sarbandak is sometimes used. Such a bandage existed in Shugnan and Rushan until the 30s. The drawing was made from life in the village of Porshnev (Western Pamir, Shugnan). Top right - a modern way of tying the head with a scarf and the hairstyle of an elderly woman. The drawing was made there. Below, on the left, there is an old quilted hat, paspakol (in Ishkashim) or shokulla (in Shugnan). On the right is the same hat with a scarf tied over it, in the folds of which is a piece of paper. The drawings were made from nature in Ryn (Ishkashim).
40. Modern skullcaps of Tajiks in mountainous regions. At the top is a skullcap - toky from the village of Bedak (Mountainous Tajikistan, Karategin), below is a skullcap-toky or pakol from Vakhan (Western Pamir).

1. A cropped undershirt dress with a stand-up collar, sometimes trimmed with a pleated frill.
2. Modern yoke dress.
3. Dress of an old Pamir cut with slits on the sleeves.
4. A dress of the most common tunic cut in Tajikistan, which is used to sew both upper and lower dresses. The differences usually lie only in the cut of the collar.
5. A dress of Bukhara cut, without wedges in the sides, which was used to sew dresses in cities from wide silk fabrics.
6. A vest of an old cut that exists in the northern regions of Tajikistan.
7. Waistcoat of Samarkand cut.

1. Dress with a detachable bodice with pleats at the chest and back, with a stand-up collar and cuffs, and an attached pleated skirt at the waist. It used to be in the Western Pamirs.
2. Girl's dress.
3. Women's dress.
4. Women's dress with ruffles under the arms, which is now in Ishkashim (Western Pamir).
5. An old woman's dress tutcha or churchcha, with a detachable, on a yoke, in front, assembled in assemblies, and with a solid straight back, which existed for a very short time in the northern regions of the republic at the end of the last century.

1. The most common collar with a vertical slit, sometimes sheathed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color or decorated with an embroidered long double braid.
2. Collar with a vertical slit, decorated with scallops and ruffles. Such collars were made at the lower dresses, sewn from white cotton. matter.
3. Collar with a vertical slit and a high stand, decorated with an ornament stitched on a sewing machine with threads of a different color.
4. A gate with a vertical slit and a low stand, called itik, o, which existed and continues to exist mainly in the northern regions of the republic.
5. Stand-up collar, trimmed with pleats and embellished with an ornament sewn on a sewing machine with threads of a different color than the dress itself. Such a collar is called parpary or k, azok, y.
6. Stand-up collar with a collar both in front, on the chest, and behind, on the back. It existed and exists mainly in the northern regions of the republic and is called itiko.

1. Faranchi - a dressing gown thrown over the head with false sleeves fastened at the back (sewn in Leninabad at the beginning of the 20th century).
2. The same, Bukhara cut.
3. Sarandoz or tour - a tulle cover for the bride's head (Samarkand, 1920s).

1. Guilem - women's dressing gown made of homespun woolen fabric. Sleeves with transverse cuts for threading hands during work.

2. Kaltacha or munisak - an old dressing gown with underarm gathers, which existed in cities and large villages in the middle and end of the last - beginning of the 20th century (sewn in Bukhara).

3. The same. See table. 24 (sewn in Karatag - Central Tajikistan - at the beginning of the 20th century).

4. Kamzul - an old women's dressing gown for young women, which exists mainly among the urban population (sewn in Leninabad at the beginning of the 20th century).

5. Rumcha - an old dressing gown for middle-aged women (sewn in Leninabad at the beginning of the 20th century).

1. Tsoma or chapon-robe of the most common cut in Tajikistan - without seams on the shoulders, with wedges reaching to the sleeves on the sides and with relatively narrow sleeves sewn without a cut-out armhole.

2. The same Bukhara cut (later), without wedges reaching the sleeves in the side, with wide long sleeves sewn in without a cut-out armhole.

3. The same from factory cloth, worn by wealthy townspeople.

4. The same cut of the rumcha, sewn with seams on the shoulders and with sleeves sewn into the cut-out armhole.

5. Gilem - a robe made of homespun cloth. Sketched in Shugnan (Western Pamir).

1. Kamzul-male camisole, used and existing among the urban population.

2. Kurtai kiftak - a men's shirt of an old style. Distributed throughout Tajikistan. The back and front are tailored from a panel bent at the shoulders, wedges at the sides, and a horizontal collar.

3. Kurtai yaktak - men's swing shirt. It is typical for the rural population of the northern regions of Tajikistan.

4. Yaktai - a shirt-robe that existed in mountainous areas.

5. Ezor, tanbon - men's trousers of the most common cut in Tajikistan. Women are sewn in the same cut, only they are made narrower, the wedge is made smaller in step and not sewn to the end of the legs, but a quarter two higher.

6. Lozimy, poich, oma - old women's trousers. (sewn in Bukhara).

7. The same modern cut.

8. Men's harem pants of an old style.

9. Tanbon-women's bloomers. (Western Pamir, Shugnan).

50. Antique headdress. Modern headwear. (“Modern” - at the time of the study, mid-20th century)

After the withdrawal of American troops from the territory of Afghanistan, the attention to the Pamirs increased in the press. Many are afraid of destabilization of the situation in this region, which is actually isolated from the outside world. The "roof of the world" is a special place, since almost everyone in this region belongs to the Ismailis.

Many mistakenly confuse local residents with Tajiks and other peoples. The article will be able to explain who the Pamirs are, and why they are considered to be a separate ethnic group.

General information

Since the Pamirs live in a highland area, which is divided between four states, they are often equated with other peoples. Their historical region (Badakhshan) is located in Afghanistan, Pakistan, China. Most often mistakenly confused with Tajiks. Who are the Pamirs?

They are attributed to the totality of Iranian peoples who speak the heterogeneous languages ​​of the Eastern Iranian group. The majority of the Pamirs profess Islam. By comparison, Tajiks, for example, speak a Western Iranian dialect and are predominantly Sunni.

Territory of residence

Pamirs are settled on the territory of the western, southern, eastern Pamirs. In the south, these mountains merge with the Hindu Kush. The area consists of narrow valleys located at an altitude of two or more thousand meters above sea level. The climate in this area is distinguished by its severity. The valleys are surrounded by steep ridges up to seven thousand meters above sea level. They are covered with eternal snows. It is not for nothing that the expression "Roof of the World" is used as the name of this area (the area where the Pamirs live).

The peoples who live in the Pamirs have a similar culture and traditions. However, the researchers were able to prove (by studying languages) that these peoples belong to several ancient Eastern Iranian communities that came to the Pamirs separately from each other. What nationalities are the Pamirs made up of?

Diversity of peoples

The Pamir peoples are usually divided among themselves according to the linguistic principle. There are two main branches - these are the northern and southern Pamirs. Each of the groups consists of separate peoples, some of which may speak similar languages.

Northern Parmirians include:

• the Shugnans are the leading ethnic group, numbering more than one hundred thousand people, of which about twenty-five thousand live in Afghanistan;
• Rushanians - about thirty thousand people;
• Yazgulyam people - from eight to ten thousand people;
• Sarykols - are considered part of the once single group of Shugnano-Rushans, which has become isolated, its number reaches twenty-five thousand people.

The Southern Pamirs include:

• Ishkashim residents - about one and a half thousand people;
• Sanglichians - the number is no more than one hundred and fifty people;
• Wakhans - the total number reaches seventy thousand people;
• Munjans - about four thousand people.

In addition, there are many close and neighboring peoples who are very close to the Pamirs. Some of them eventually began to use the local Pamir languages.

Language

Pamir languages ​​are very numerous. But their scope is limited to everyday communication. Historically, the Persian language (Tajik) has had a great influence on them since ancient times.

For the inhabitants of the Pamirs, the Persian language has long been used in religion, literature, and oral folk art. It is also a universal tool for international communication.

Pamir dialects were gradually replaced. In some mountain peoples, they are used less and less even in everyday life. For example, in GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshanskaya), the official language is Tajik. It is the language used in schools. Although, if we talk about the Afghan Pamiris, there are practically no schools on their territory, so the population is generally illiterate.

Surviving Pamir languages:

• yazgulyam;
• Shughni;
• Rushansky;
• hufi;
• Bartangian;
• Sarykol;
• Ishkashim;
• Wakhan;
• Munjan;
• yidga.

All of them are included in the group of Eastern Iranian languages. In addition to the Pamirs, the representatives of the Eastern Iranian ethnic groups were the Scythians, who once lived on the territory of the Northern Black Sea region and left behind historical monuments in the form of barrows.

Religion

From the end of the first millennium BC, the Pamir tribes were influenced by Zoroastrianism and Buddhism. Islam began to penetrate and spread widely among the masses from the eleventh century. The introduction of the new religion was closely connected with the activities of Nasir Khosrov. He was a famous Persian poet who fled to the Pamirs from his pursuers.

Ismailism had a great influence on the spiritual life of the inhabitants of the Pamirs. According to the religious factor, it is easy to understand who the Pamiri is (what kind of nation, we considered above). First of all, the representatives of these peoples belong to the Ismailis (the Shia branch of Islam, which was influenced by Hinduism and Buddhism). How does this direction in Islam differ from traditional beliefs?

Main differences:

• Pamiris pray twice a day;
• believers do not fast in Ramadan;
• women did not wear and do not wear a veil;
• men allow themselves to drink moonshine from mulberry.

Because of this, many Muslims do not recognize the Pamiris as true believers.

Family traditions

Relationships to family and marriage will make it possible to understand who a Pamiri is. What kind of nation and what are its traditions, will be able to tell the family way of life. The most ancient version of the family was based on the principle of patriarchal relations. The families were big. At their head was an elder, to whom everyone unquestioningly obeyed. This was before the advent of commodity-money relations. The family became monogamous, preserving patriarchal traditions.

This continued until the establishment of Islam. The new religion legalized the superiority of the male over the female. According to Sharia law, a man had advantages and rights in most cases, for example, in matters of inheritance. The husband received the legal right to divorce. At the same time, in the mountainous regions, where women took an active part in rural labor, their position was freer.

In some mountain peoples, family marriages were accepted. Most often this was stimulated by economic reasons.

Main occupations

To understand who the Pamiris are, it is better to study their way of life. Their main occupation has long been high-mountain agriculture, which is combined with animal husbandry. As pets they bred cows, goats, sheep, donkeys, horses. The cattle were undersized, not of good quality. In winter, the animals were in the villages, and in the summer they were driven out to pastures.

The traditional home crafts of the Pamirs, first of all, include the processing of wool and the dressing of fabrics. Women processed wool and made threads, while men wove the world-famous striped

The craft for processing horns, especially wild goats, was developed. Combs and handles for bladed weapons were made from them.

National cuisine

Learning about culture and religion, you can understand who the Pamiris are. This knowledge can be supplemented by considering the traditional food of the representatives of these peoples. Knowing the traditional occupations, it is easy to guess that there is very little meat in the diet of the Pamirs. This is due to the fact that there is nowhere to graze livestock, so they save it for milk and wool.

The main food products include wheat in the form of flour and crushed cereals. Flour is used to make noodles, cakes, dumplings. Also, mountain peoples eat fruits, walnuts, legumes, and vegetables. Of the dairy products, the most popular among them is tea with milk, sour milk. Wealthy Pamirs drink tea with milk, adding a piece of butter.

Actually Pamir or "roof of the world" is a mountain system on the territory of Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan, located at the junction of the spurs of other powerful mountain systems of Central Asia - the Hindu Kush, Kun-Lun and Tien Shan. And these are beauties from various ethnic groups that inhabit it in national clothes.

Women are very reminiscent of our women from the North Caucasus. I read the reports of the expedition of ethnographers - they link the peoples of the Pamirs with the Ossetians, the Chinese, the peoples of Afghanistan, even with the Scythians ... In general, a romantic interpretation of the Beijing maestro ...

Dombarka, banjarka or Pamir gypsy (Hindu branch)

Pamir or Afghan Kyrgyz.

Presumably Yazgulyamka, Northern Pamir, Vanj region.

Kyrgyz. Kyrgyzstan.

Ishkashim people, southern Pamir

Tajik.

Hindu

Tajik

Chinese people Miao, Hmong. different provinces.

Kazakh

Wakhians.

Girl from Rushan or Kulyab

Chinese Kyrgyz

Tajik GBAO.

At the southern borders. The southern Pamirs cover the Alichur valley, the North Alichursky, also called Bazardara (length approx. 130 km. height up to 5929 m.) and South Alichursky (length approx. 150 km. height 5706 m. Kyzyldangi) ridges; the upper reaches of the Oksu and the Zorkul area. It is characterized by a sharper relief and the fact that it receives more rainfall. Along the Alichur valley and along the Zorkul lake, green meadows run in wide stripes. The ridges reach 5000-5700 m in height. Glaciation is developed only on the northern slopes. There are many lakes in this part of the Pamirs, the largest of them is Zorkul. In the Alichur valley there is a tiny lake Akbalyk, it is distinguished by exceptional water transparency.
Here you can observe how the fish, descending to the bottom, decreases in size, although in the very depths it is clearly visible. The vegetation of the region is richer than in other parts of the Pamirs.
These places have been inhabited since ancient times and therefore are rich in ancient monuments. Vash-Gumbez mausoleum, located in the center of the Alichur valley, belongs to the last century. The rock inscriptions near Lake Yashilkul belong to more distant centuries. Burial grounds (beginning of our era and earlier) unearthed by the archaeologist A.N. Bernshtam in Kzylrabat are interesting. They are lined with juniper and willow trunks. How these materials got into the treeless mountains is a mystery to this day.
In the Alichur valley, there is Lake Yashilkul, one of the most picturesque in the Pamirs. The soft outlines of the mountains around, the greenish-blue color of the water - all this creates an impression of comfort and warmth. Among the cosmic wildness of the Pamir mountains, such corners are rare. But here, undoubtedly, one can feel the breath of neighboring Badakhshan. The river flows into the lake under the name of Alichur and flows out of it under the name of Gunt - also a typical Pamir feature. It is known that the largest river in the Pamirs, the Oksu, changes its name three times before reaching the Pyanj. The name Oksu is only the upper reaches down to the confluence of the Akbaital. Further the river flows under the name Murgab. Having filtered its water through the Usoy dam and merging a little further with the Kudara, it rushes further in a narrow gorge, up to the confluence with the Pyanj, being called Bartang.
The smallest part of Yashilkul is the eastern part, at the mouth of Alichur. The river continuously brings sand, silt and other sediments into the lake and precipitates, the lake is constantly shallowing here, and the coast is steadily advancing. Yashilkul is connected by a channel with Lake Bulunkul. The species composition of the ichthyofauna of the lake is poor. There are many birds on the lake, but there are no islands, and ducks, geese and gulls have practically nowhere to nest. In many swampy meadows, sinkholes and pits filled with water attract attention. This is the result of the melting of buried ice under swampy soil. Often in the cliffs of the coast you can see whole layers of ice. Their formation is associated with permafrost processes occurring in the soils of the Pamir meadows.
Permafrost in the Pamir meadows is a common occurrence. Thanks to her, the meadows of the "roof of the world" look like a hummocky swampy tundra. The southern outskirts of the Eastern Pamirs is the Wakhan Range, part of which is located on the territory of Afghanistan. (length 160 km. height up to 6504 m. Snow Block in Afghanistan). Through the entire Eastern Pamir from the north - from the valley of the Markansu river to the Beik pass - in the south there passes the Sarykolsky ridge (altitude up to 6361 m, Lyavirdir in China). The border between Tajikistan and China runs along this ridge.
The eastern outskirts of the Pamirs on the territory of China is the Kashgar Range (altitude 7719 m. Kongur).

The Southern Pamirs are a relic population group south of Shugnan, speaking two closely related dialect languages:
Ishkashim - Ishkashim along the banks of the Pyanj: the village of Ryn in GBAO (Ishkashim district) and the village of Ishkashim in the homonymous region of Afghan Badakhshan. OK. 1500 people
Sanglitsy - the valley of the river. Varduj in Afghan Badakhshan, the left tributary of the Pyanj, with the main village of Sanglech. The number is critical (100-150 people). To the north of Sanglech, in the Zebak region, the Zebak language used to exist, which has now been completely replaced by Tajik (Dari).
Vakhans - historically inhabit the Vakhan region, including the upper reaches of the Pyanj and its source, the Vakhandarya.
The left bank of the Pyanj and the Vakhandarya valley (Wakhan corridor) belong to the Vakhan region of the Afghan Badakhshan, the right bank belongs to the Ishkashim region of the GBAO of Tajikistan. In the 2nd half of the XIX century. The Wakhans also settled widely south of the Hindu Kush - in the valleys of Hunza, Ishkoman, Shimshal (Gilgit-Baltistan) and the river. Yarkhun in Chitral (Pakistan), as well as in Chinese Xinjiang: Sarykol and on the river. Kilyan (west of Khotan).
The total number of Vakhans is 65-70 thousand people.
The Munjans inhabit the valley of the river. Munjan in the upper reaches of the river. Kokcha (region of Kuran and Munjan in Afghan Badakhshan).
Number - approx. 4 thousand people
Yidga - a part of the Munjans who moved through the Hindu Kush range in the 18th century. Lutkuh Valley, Chitral Region (Pakistan). Number - approx. 6 thousand people

These paintings were shown at an exhibition in Beijing, Dongcheng in mid-March 2011.

DUSHANBE, Feb 9 - Sputnik, Anastasia Lebedeva. Natives of Tajikistan living in Moscow often start planning a wedding away from their homeland. The bride and groom need to have time to make all the preparations on time, for example, to sew wedding dresses.

Clothes for a Tajik wedding cannot be found in ordinary stores. The seamstress Salima Khudoberdiyeva comes to the aid of the young people, who is engaged in the manufacture of national wedding clothes.

“I mainly sew for the Pamirs, as they are more likely to celebrate their weddings in Russia than the natives of other regions of Tajikistan. I buy fabric, white satin and shirt in Moscow, because here it is better in quality. Although some clients bring I order fabric from Tajikistan. I order braid from Tajikistan. It is woven by hand,” says 27-year-old Salima.

Most importantly, sample

The seamstress admits that her hottest season is summer. There are so many orders that she sometimes has no time even to take a walk with her child.

“It happened that in one day I handed over three orders at once,” she says.

Over the past summer, the craftswoman managed to prepare 15 young couples for the wedding, sew national casual clothes for girls and dresses for children.

“Usually I can sew a men’s shirt in a day, but if the order is urgent, I have to speed up and work until late at night. It takes about a week to make a trouser suit — a shirt, trousers and a jacket,” says the dressmaker.

According to her, it takes more time to make an outfit for the bride - a dress and pants (kurtai arusi - Taj.). Although the groom "wins" in terms of the complexity of tailoring.

The speed of work also depends on the conscientiousness of the client. If he does not miss the fitting, he will be rewarded with a quick receipt of the finished order.

Every bride is unique

"When a client comes to me, first I listen to her wishes. Then I give her advice on how to avoid monotony. I want each bride to look unique at her wedding. The dress depends on the bride's imagination. We collect a set of different ideas," smiling girl.

It happened that some brides changed their wishes at the final fitting, and the master had to start all over again.

Only one thing does not change - the traditional Pamir colors - white and red. But you can vary their combination. For example, the dress can be completely white, and the vest is red. Or the whole outfit is sewn from white fabric, but the edging is filled with red braid.

However, here the dressmaker was a little cunning. For her brother's wedding, she sewed an unusual wedding dress made of white and green fabric. Salima noticed an interesting idea at the celebration of Navruz.

“We came up with this together with my daughter-in-law. The braid, of course, was not Pamir, but we picked up a very similar one,” the craftswoman admitted.

casual fashion

It happens that young women of fashion order from Salima shirts with bright national patterns, as in the male version. They proudly put on such "male" blouses under jeans and obviously do not go unnoticed on the streets of Moscow.

“At the moment, young people are increasingly showing interest in national clothes. Girls aged 18-19 simply change styles, leaving the national flavor inherent in Tajikistan. It looks very beautiful and unusual,” says Salima.

Wedding dresses of Tajik girls differ in color and ornament depending on the region. For example, in the Pamirs, the main colors are red and white, which means purity and love. The bride dresses up in a national dress, trousers and covers her head and face with a scarf to protect herself from the evil eye.
Although many girls prefer modern white puffy dresses with a veil.

If you look, the clothes of various groups of ethnic Tajiks, from time immemorial, differed only in details.

So, for the male set of the mountain, or lowland population, the following were characteristic: wide shirt - "kurta"Made of cotton fabric, trousers- trousers dressed on top robe, waist scarf and headdress - skullcap.

shirt, usually sewn from one piece of fabric, folded over the shoulders and made a cutout for the neck in the middle. The sides and sleeves were simply sewn to the base. It turned out a wide, not restricting movement product, called among ethnographers - tunic.

Trousers- trousers("ezor") were sewn wide, not restricting the step from above and narrow towards the bottom. Shirt worn loose, belted with a diagonally folded waist scarf. It should be noted here that the scarf, in this case, served as a belt and pockets at the same time, supporting trousers and making a long shirt more functional. Worn directly over the shirt robe(« chapan”), swing, straight cut. For summer, its light version was provided - without lining, for winter - more dense, on wadding, which had a quilting over the entire field of the product. Dressing gowns, as a rule, were sewn from striped (stripes along) or colored cotton fabric. The inhabitants of the mountainous regions preferred to wear " chapans”from undyed homespun wool, the collar of which was decorated with an embroidered ornament.

Highlanders' wardrobe was complemented by high, knitted with colored thread, stockings("jurab"), which were worn with rawhide shoes with soft soles - chariks("choruk").

The inhabitants of the plains wore soft high boots on their feet. stocking boots from dressed leather - " mahsi", in which bloomers were tucked, and when leaving the house, leather galoshes were put on directly. In everyday life, there were also leather boots with a heel and a curved nose, used for riding.

A skullcap has always served as a headdress for Tajiks., which was a low conical cap, intricately decorated with embroidery, the pattern of which, better than any document, indicated the origin and place of residence of the owner. Plain Tajiks also wore a turban over a skullcap.

By the 20th century fashion among Tajiks has entered flat square skullcap, black with white embroidery, which received the name - " feel", at the place of its manufacture in the city Chust. Women who had previously used only a scarf as a headdress began to wear it willingly.

Woman suit, according to the composition of the obligatory elements, was similar to the male, it was exactly the same shirt("kurta") and trousers. The women's shirt was cut in the same way as the men's, but unlike the latter, it was much longer and was decorated with rich embroidery. "Kurta" could be both monophonic and bright, multi-colored, decorated with a pattern.

Women's bloomers usually they were sewn from two types of fabric: the upper part was made of cheaper, cotton - pleasant for the body and “breathable”, and the lower part, which is visible from under the shirt, was made of elegant and more expensive matter. Bloomers ended with a beautiful braid that tightened around the ankle.

Outerwear Tajik women did not have any at all, in the cold they were ordered to stay at home. However, if it was necessary to go outside, they simply put on a few dresses, and on top they put on a quilted robe, made like a man's.

Leaving the house, each woman had to put on a special kind of cape - veil("faranji"). It was a stylized robe-bag with sleeves folded and sewn behind the back, in front of the burqa it was decorated with a black hair net (" chachvan"). All this design was worn on the head, and reliably covered the face and figure. Wearing a veil is a purely Muslim custom, and came to Tajikistan in the 7th-8th centuries, together with the Arabs who brought Islam. And although this tradition was intensively planted by the clergy, it took root only in the cities of the flat part of the country. And in the villages and mountain villages, it was completely ignored.