How to process the bottom of a dress made of light fabric. Processing methods for the bottom of the product

Bottom hem- This is the processing of the lower cut of the product. After marking the length, the allowance is turned to the wrong side, basted, ironed and cut parallel to the fold, leaving the desired width. Basic rule: 4 cm for a straight hem, 2 cm for a rounded hem. The folded allowance is sewn by hand or sewn on a machine. There are the following types of hem: "open cut", that is, turning the fabric to the wrong side only once, and with a double hem of the cut. The hem can be noticeable and imperceptible from the front side of the product. With all methods of bending “open”, the cut of the allowance is first processed. The type of processing of the bottom of the product depends on the fabric, pattern and, ultimately, on the desired appearance of the model.

HIDDEN HIM

It is used in cases where the stitches should not be visible on the front side of the dress. Unscrew the cut of the unfolded allowance by 1 cm to the front side and sew along. So that not a single stitch is visible on the front side, grab 1-2 threads of fabric with a needle. The seam allowance stitches can be longer. Do not pull the thread too tight (1).

With the special blind stitch foot, you can sew the seam allowance on the machine. To do this, the allowance must be swept 2 cm below the cut. Wrap the unturned allowance and stitch it (2). Pay attention to that. so that the stitch on the right side captures only 1-2 threads of fabric. To do this, increase the stitch length and slightly loosen the thread tension. You will find detailed instructions in the instructions for your sewing machine.

BENDING "RULIKOM"

The hemming of products from very thin fabrics is performed manually with a “roller”. To do this, you need a thin needle and thin threads for machine embroidery. Hemming allowance - 1 cm. Hemming with a "roller" can be done in two ways. Tuck the allowance by 1 cm. Alternately stick the needle along the fold, then close to the cut of the allowance, while capturing no more than 1-2 threads of fabric. After making a few stitches, carefully pull the thread, while the tucked section is twisted (3). It is also possible, by twisting the hem of the bottom between the index and thumb, to sew the resulting steering wheel with a hidden seam (4).

BENDING ON THE MACHINE

First turn the seam allowance to the wrong side, iron once. then fold to desired width, pin, iron and topstitch to edge (5). For a hem with an open cut, first overcast the cut, then baste, iron and sew on the right side.

ZIGZAG HIM

Pleated sun skirts. frills, flounces, the cut of the hem is sewn with a dense zigzag stitch. To do this, the hem allowance must be ironed on the wrong side and stitched along the fold with a dense zigzag stitch, then cut off the excess fabric of the allowance close to the stitches (6). If the lower edge of the product is not straight, but should fall in soft “waves”, then when stitching, pull off the edge and grab the perlon thread (for example, fishing line) with stitches.

FAKE HIM

If the length of the fabric is not enough to hem the bottom of the dress, and also if the dress is sewn from a fabric embroidered with sequins, then a “false” hem is used from a matching lining or finishing fabric. To do this, cut a strip of fabric approx. 6 cm wide and. attaching it to the front side of the main fabric, stitch along the marked dress hem line (7). Iron the seam allowances. Then baste the “false” hem, iron the edge. Tuck the allowance and sew by hand or sew.

ROUND HIM

When hemming the bottom of a flared skirt, rounded jacket shelves or slots, the folded edge should lie flat. To do this, the excess width of the rounded area must be planted. Sew the top edge of the seam allowance in two rows with a long stitch. The allowance, turning to the wrong side, bast, while pulling the thread of the bottom line until the allowance lies smoothly. Spread the fabric evenly and iron (8). Sweep over the seam allowance and sew by hand with blind stitches or sew on a machine.

CORNER PROCESSING ON BENDING

There are three options for making the angle of the slots or the cut and cut of the fastener.

HANDLING CORNERS

First, hem the bottom, then sweep the allowances or turn the slots, cut or cut of the fastener to the wrong side, iron and sew on the hem of the bottom (9). If you have a product made of very thick fabric, first cut the hem allowances to a width of 1 cm (10).

CLEAN GRIND ANGLE

First you need to outline the length of the product. Overcast the allowances for the hem and the hem or facing the slots or the cut of the fastener. Turn the facing (selection) and the hem allowance to the front side and stitch along the marked line of the bottom edge. Cut allowances to a width of 1 cm (11). Turning it to the wrong side, sweep the allowances for the slots / fasteners, the hem and the bottom edge. Iron the edges, then hem the bottom edge. Sew the hem or hem to the bottom hem (12).

ANGLE "ENVELOPE"- this is the most beautiful, but also time-consuming way of processing corners. It is performed as follows: the hem lines of the bottom and the edges of the cut must be marked with running threads. Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side and mark its edge with chalk on the allowance or facing of the cut (13). Turn away. Turn the slot/turn allowance to the wrong side and mark the edge with chalk on the bottom hem allowance. Connect the two marked points with a line passing through the angle formed by the basting lines (14). Then the fabric must be folded with the front side inward, combining the segments of the chalk line. Sew seam allowances along the chalk line and cut along the line to a width of 0.5 cm (15),

cut diagonally at the corner. Iron the allowances. Turn out the hem allowances and the vents to the wrong side, iron (16), sew with blind stitches or sew on.

ADHESIVE HIM

This is the simplest and fastest type of processing of the lower sections. Overcast the seam allowance and iron along the fold. Remove running threads. Zaumfix gasket with double-sided adhesive coating. put the ironed huftfleeze under the allowance. The tape should not be wider than the allowance, otherwise it will stick to the iron. Iron (17).

IMPORTANT: Before gluing, read the instructions for use of the gasket and perform a trial ironing on a piece of fabric.

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For processing slices bottom sewing products and individual parts of clothing, the following processing methods are used:

Processing the bottom of the product with a hem seam

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, women's trousers, jackets, as well as flounces, frills, sleeves made of thin, semi-thin loose fabrics are treated with a hem seam with a closed cut.

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, women's trousers, jackets, as well as flounces, frills, sleeves made of thick, semi-thick, non-flowing and low-flowing fabrics are treated with a folded edge seam with an open swept cut.

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, women's trousers, jackets, as well as flounces, frills, sleeves made of thick, semi-thick, non-flowing and low-flowing fabrics are cut with "teeth" on a special device or with special scissors.

Then hemmed with hand stitches or special. car.

Processing the bottom of the product on a zigzag stitch machine:

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, as well as flounces, frills, frills, molds, cut along an oblique warp thread or in a circle from thin, semi-thin, transparent loose and low-flow fabrics are processed on a machine with a zigzag stitch.

To sew a zigzag stitch, first adjust the zigzag stitch on the sewing machine: the height of the zigzag is 0.1-0.3 cm, the width is 0.1-0.2 cm. The width of the zigzag is the length of the stitch on the sewing machine.

To sew a zigzag stitch on loose fabrics, make the stitch height longer and the width smaller.

To perform a zigzag stitch on low-flowing fabrics, make the stitch height less, the width more.

To perform a zigzag stitch, the cut is folded to the wrong side by 0.5-0.7 cm and a zigzag stitch is laid 0.05 cm from the fold or under the very edge. The excess fabric is then cut off.

Threads for processing the edge with a zigzag stitch are selected very thin so that the edge does not turn out to be hard.

Processing the bottom of the product with a “Moscow seam”:

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, as well as flounces, frills, frills, mold molds, cut along the oblique thread of the base from thin, semi-thin loose and elastic fabrics, are processed with a folded edge seam, the so-called “Moscow” seam or, for some reason, “American ".

To perform the “Moscow” seam, the cut is folded to the wrong side by 0.5-0.7 cm and a machine line is laid 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold. The excess fabric is then cut off.

Bend over again by 0.3-0.4 cm and lay a machine line 0.2-0.3 cm from the first fold.

Processing the bottom of the product with a bordered cut:

The lower sections of dresses, skirts, jackets, as well as sleeves, made of expensive, thick, loose and low-flowing fabrics, are edged with a strip of lining fabric with an open-cut edging seam. Then the allowance for processing the bottom is swept inside out, lightly ironed and hemmed with manual blind stitches.

During tailoring, you have to repeatedly adjust the bottom of the skirt. Let's learn some easy ways to align the hem of a skirt.

How to align the bottom of a skirt

1. After the product is ready (a zipper is sewn into the skirt and all seams are processed), you need to attach it, preferably at the waist, to the rope. Clothespins are attached to the bottom edge of the skirt.
2. For a better effect, you can wet the skirt with water.
3. It is necessary to leave the product in this position for several days.
4. After that, you can try on a new thing and select the desired length.
5. The bottom edge is sewn.

How to process a vent on a skirt

The key to the beautiful appearance of the skirt lies precisely in the correct processing of the slots. This is a very simple operation that will not take much time.

• To make a slot on the back panel, you need to use the correct drawing.

• Slot allowances must be duplicated on both the left and right edges of the canvas.
• Allowances that are on the slot must be ironed on the left side.

• The allowance that is left to fold the bottom edge must be overcast and ironed inside out.
• The two halves of the slots are added and the level is adjusted (you need to make sure that they are on the same level).

• With pins, you need to outline the line where the product will be sewn.
• Do not forget that the left allowance must be sewn to the bottom edge of the skirt. Everything is smoothed out. The slot has been processed!

How to trim a slit in a skirt

At first it may seem that the slit on the skirt is just a minor decoration of the appearance, but in fact it is not. The incision creates not only a good overall picture, but also corrects the figure, emphasizing the beauty of the legs. Cuts very often help to turn a strict look into a more elegant one.

• While sewing a seam, immediately make a cut and reinforce the place where the stitching ended. This will prevent possible tearing of the seam.
• The seam of the incision must be ironed.
• After that, you need to cut a strip from the fabric and fold it a few more times (preferably 4) - it will help strengthen the cut.

• The fixative is sewn first on one, and then on the second stitching seam.

• To be sure, you can also flash the fixative along the edges.
• Also, do not forget to stitch the fixative on the allowances.
• Excess fabric must be cut off. That's all! The incision is processed and there is a guarantee that no trouble will happen.

How to process the hem of a skirt

There are so many ways and seams that you can process the hem of a skirt. But before starting the process, remember - you need to align and stretch the bottom of the skirt. Usually, the hem is processed with an overlock or a slanting inlay.

• First, the bottom of the skirt is folded inside out by about 1 centimeter, and the fold that has formed must be swept.

• Please note that for straight skirts, the width of the folded bottom can be equal to 3-4 centimeters, and for flared ones it can reach up to 2.
• The bottom edge can be sewn with both blind stitches and using a sewing machine.

Before work, you should consider: the density of the fabric, the thread in tone with the fabric and the style. The bottom of products made of dense fabrics is processed with an oblique trim, and it happens that it is folded over several times. The bottom of a classic-style skirt is best processed by hand, without a machine. And yet, it is desirable that the thread with which everything will be stitched is in tune with the fabric. In some cases, you can allow to buy threads 1 or 2 tones darker.

How to hem a skirt

• The skirt is tried on for the owner and marks are made with chalk, according to which it is required to narrow the product.
• The seams are steamed and ironed.
• Marks that were made with chalk are transferred inside out. You can use the pattern to connect the marks with a smooth line and thus make a new style of the skirt.

• The skirt is pinned off, and the straight seam is ground down and ironed.
• Allowances are cut to one and a half centimeters.
• The sides are cleaved with pins and stitched as close to the zipper as possible.
• The bottom edge is stitched at a distance of 2 centimeters and that's it, you get a completely new skirt.

How to decorate the bottom of a skirt

At this stage, the most important thing is fantasy and creative perception. There are a lot of design options for the bottom of the skirt, let's see examples of the most common ones.

How to process the bottom of the skirt: video

The main purpose of hemming the bottom of the product is to obtain a neatly finished edge. Usually, the hem allowance is folded to the wrong side of the product. However, in some cases, the hem allowance is folded to the front of the product or not folded at all. The hem makes the edge of the product tighter, thereby improving the appearance of the product. If the hem allowance is correctly hemmed, then it is invisible from the front side of the product, except in special cases of decorative processing.

The value for the hem of the product is usually specified during the last fitting, after all changes have been made and the product has been ironed. Products with a flared skirt, "sun" - flared or with a skirt cut along an oblique thread, must hang for at least a day before the width of the hem allowance can be finally determined.

The sequence of processing the bottom hem allowance is the same for all products:

1. Mark the fold line on the product.

2. Fold the edge of the product to the wrong side, combining the lines of the middle and the lines of the seams of the product and the hem allowance.

3. Pin with pins or baste the folded edge to the product at a distance of 5 mm from the fold line.

4. Place a piece of wrapping paper or calculator paper between the folded edge and the product. This helps to avoid the appearance of a folded edge print on the front side of the product and shrinkage of the fabric of the product when ironing.

5. Lightly iron the folded edge in the direction of the grain thread. Be careful not to accidentally place the iron on the pins. Try, as far as possible, to sew off the excess fabric of the folded edge. Shrinking can lead to the fact that in some places the width of the allowance will increase (Fig. 107a).

6. Using a cardboard template or measuring tape, measure the width of the hem allowance. Mark the desired width with chalk or remnant (Fig. 107b).

7. For flared skirts, add a hem allowance in one of the following ways:

a) Continue over the hem allowance with a machine stitch with an in-stitch fit.

b) Lay a machine stitch along the allowance with increased tension on the upper thread. Attach the allowance by pulling on the upper thread.

c) Lay a zigzag stitch along the allowance over the cord. Gather the allowance by pulling the cord.

8. If the fabric is thick, trim the seam allowances at the hem as shown in fig. 107c.

9. Trim the edge of the hem allowance in the manner most appropriate for the fabric and garment.

10. Sew the folded edge to the product by hand, machine or glue it to the product.

11. Iron the folded edge.

It's easier to mark the fold line between the legs than with a hemline tool. At the same time, such a ruler is quite long, and it can also be used to mark the fold line on jackets and blouses.
Stand on the table, put on the product and ask someone to help you mark the fold line at the bottom. You must stand still and have your helper walk around you. The fold line should be marked as quickly as possible so that the person standing on the table does not get tired and does not change posture during measurements.
Stick the pins into the product along the future fold line parallel to the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other. Having outlined the fold line, fold the bottom and pin it before removing the product. The bottom line of the product should look strictly horizontal. Adjust the position of the fold line so that it visually appears horizontal, even if in reality it is not.
Using a one meter long wooden ruler, mark the fold line on the product. Using a ruler a meter long,
Remove the product and lay it face up on the table. Correct small deviations in the relative position of the pins so that they are all on the same line (Fig. 108a).

Mark the fold line on the right side of the fabric with pins, remnants, chalk, or running stitches (Fig. 1086).

Accurately measuring the distance from the bottom of the product to the floor is usually not easy. The method described below can be applied to any product, as long as it does not leave marks from pins or needles.
1. Prick pins around the entire circumference of the skirt at a distance of 25 cm from the floor (Fig. 109a).

For thin fabrics, it is better to use thin needles.
2. Remove the piece and mark a fold line 24 cm down from each
shops. Then the distance from the bottom edge of the skirt to the floor will be 1 cm (Fig. 109b).

3. If you want the skirt to be ankle length, adjust the distance measured from the pins down accordingly.

After bending the bottom of the flared skirt or “sun”-flared skirt to the wrong side, an excess of fabric of the folded edge is formed in relation to the skirt. This excess fabric must be removed so that the folded edge lies flat on the wrong side of the skirt, without folds.
There are several ways to do this. Which of these methods is better to choose depends on the properties of the fabric and product. One way or another will get the desired result.
Reducing the width of the hem allowance
The amount of excess fabric of the folded edge is greater, the wider the hem allowance. If the hem allowance is narrow, then the excess fabric will be small.
1. Fold the edge of the skirt to the wrong side.
2. Measure the width of the hem allowance from 1.5 cm to 3 cm.
3. Process the cut of the skirt, fold and hem the edge.

This quick and uncomplicated method is used when working on the bottom of everyday products, as well as in cases where the product needs to be sewn quickly. This method can be used to remove excess hem fabric in garments where all excess fabric is located in the area of ​​vertical seams, such as, for example, in an A-line skirt or bell-shaped trousers. It is necessary to move the seam lines in the section of the folded edge in such a way as to remove all excess fabric. If the product needs to be lengthened, the vertical seams should be ripped open and re-stitched.

First way.

If the final position of the fold line can be marked on the pattern, mark the new position of the side seam lines immediately, before sewing them.

1. Mark on the lines of the vertical seams the points of their intersection with the fold line.
2. According to the marks, fold the edge of the product to the wrong side and iron it (Fig. 110a).

3. Cut the hem allowance to the desired width (Fig. 110b).

4. Stitch the side seams (Fig. 110c).

5. Iron the seam allowances.
6. Fold the edge of the product to the wrong side.

7. Process the cut of the folded edge and hem it to the product.

The second way.

If you need to assemble the product to try on, sew the side seams first and only then change their position.

1. Mark the fold line on the product.
2. Bend the edge of the product to the front side along the marked fold line (Fig. 111a).
3. Pin the product details along the side seam line in the hem section with a pin so as to take excess fabric into the seam (Fig. 111b). Notch the hem allowance where the pinned side seam passes.

4. Stitch the side seams from the cuts of the fold valley and continue the line 2.5 cm to secure the seams (Fig. 111c).

5. If you are not going to lengthen the product, trim the seam allowances at the folded edge.
6. Open up the remaining side seams at the folded edge so that you can iron out the seam allowances for the new side seams.
7. Iron the seam allowances.
8. Fold the edge of the product along the fold line to the wrong side and iron.
9. Process the cut of the folded edge and hem it to the product.

Excess hem fabric can be easily removed if the product is not flared at all or slightly flared, or if the fabric fits easily. Iron the folded edge or steam it to reduce the thickness of the fold.
1. Fold the edge of the product to the wrong side.
2. Pin the folded edge with pins or bast it to the product 5 mm above the fold line.
3. Place a sheet of thick paper or lightweight cardboard between the folded edge and the product to avoid shrinkage of the fabric of the product and the formation of a print of the folded edge on the product.
4. Using a steam humidifier, iron the folded edge from fold to cut along the direction of the longitudinal thread. Do not place the iron on the pins.
5. Mark the width of the hem allowance.
6. Process the cut of the folded edge and hem it to the product.

Not all sewing operations can be done on a typewriter. Some of them need to be done manually. These include securing the hem of the bottom of the skirt. Of course, the atelier has special hemming machines, but at home you can only hem a skirt by hand.

Processing the bottom of a skirt made of suit fabrics is usually done with a blind seam. But how to hem a sun skirt, the hem of which reaches several meters, or a chiffon skirt? These and other questions are answered by the studio technologist.

How to properly hem a skirt with a blind seam is discussed in detail in the article on our website "Blind seam by hand".
One can only add that this method of hemming should be used for a skirt made of suit or woolen fabrics. Simply put, for those fabrics in which needle punctures will not be noticeable on the front side.
You can also add that the thread must be chosen not only for the color of the main fabric, but also for a certain quality. If you have already had to hem trousers or a skirt, then you probably noticed how a long thread twists into loops, forming knots. You have to cut off such a thread and start sewing from the beginning. Choose a thin, not twisted thread and a short and thin hand needle. The strength of the thread in this case is not its most important parameter.
Naturally, you need to hem the bottom of the skirt with one thread, and not in two additions. But this reminder is more for those who do it for the first time.

When you sew a voluminous sun skirt and even a half sun skirt, you will face the question - How to hem the bottom of a skirt, the length of which is several meters, and even along the oblique? Or another example, you sewed a beautiful skirt from a light flowing fabric (chiffon) and you need to make a beautiful hem. How to do it correctly and accurately?

There are several ways, but I offer you the easiest one. Overcast the edge of the skirt with an overlock. Fix the hem with an iron (iron) and sew a line on the wrong side by 0.2. You can also make an additional line, slightly higher than the first (0.4-0.5 from the first line). Then the overlock seam will not "fall out". But this is up to you.

Moscow seam is used for hem

This is a rather complicated type of processing the bottom of the skirt, but it is indispensable when hemming a sun skirt and other types of skirts tailored along the oblique. But, nevertheless, I would recommend just overcasting the edge, tucking it up and stitching, as shown in the top photo.

It is difficult to sew a knitted skirt, it is even more difficult to hem the bottom beautifully and accurately. If the knitted fabric is dense enough, then this option for processing the bottom of the skirt is fully justified.
Overlock the cut of the bottom of the skirt with an overlock, iron it (you can sweep it) and lay two lines along the wrong side, as shown in this photo.

Hemming a skirt on a sewing machine (with a special foot)

Skirt hem or trouser hem can also be done with a sewing machine. This will require a special foot. True, this method is suitable only for fabrics that have a loose structure. In other cases, the hem stitch thread will be visible on the right side as well.

How not to hem a skirt

This is the method usually used by beginners. But apart from being too primitive, it is also too noticeable. After you iron the skirt, the hem will be "printed" on the right side of the fabric.

This seam is called "goat". Quite a decent way to hem a skirt, but very outdated. It was used by our grandmothers at a time when the overlock could only be seen in the studio.

And this is not even a way, they just hemmed the skirt as best they could. Such hemming will lead to the fact that the thread will soon break and you will have to hem the skirt again with a high-quality, inconspicuous and neat hidden seam.

Do not glue the bottom of the skirt with cobwebs

In a sewing accessories store, you can buy a special adhesive web. She has glue applied on both sides, and she is specially designed for fixing the hem of the bottom of a skirt, trousers and other technological sewing operations.
Indeed, it is convenient and fast, and most importantly, you can easily fix any hem. You can use this web in some cases. But most often you do not need to use it to hem a skirt. First, the gossamer can print the hem onto the right side of the skirt fabric. Secondly, the bottom of the skirt will become "harder", because after heat treatment the adhesive hardens. And thirdly, poor-quality gossamer quickly loses its adhesive properties after several washes.

Therefore, if you want to hem a skirt with high quality, master the technique of making a blind seam. Try also to make a Moscow seam on a piece of fabric, perhaps you will like this treatment of the bottom of the skirt the most.

All craftswomen, without exception, dream of acquiring an overlock, with which you can quickly overcast seam allowances. However, there are more sophisticated and elegant ways of processing the inner sections of the product, which are not inferior, and in some cases even superior to the overlock stitch. We offer you a hit parade of ways in which you can qualitatively process seam allowances without overlock and give your products the perfect look.

1. Cut with zigzag scissors. The easiest way to prevent the cuts from fraying is to process them with scissors with zigzag blades. Such pruning will avoid shedding of cuts, however, this method is not recommended for use on thin silk and transparent fabrics, as well as on fabrics with a loose texture, such as Chanel tweed.

Rice. 1. Cut with zigzag scissors

2. Zigzag overlock stitch. This is a very affordable method for all seamstresses, since almost all sewing machines can sew a zigzag stitch. Carefully trim the seam allowances, set the desired stitch length and width (2.5 mm for lightweight fabrics and 3 mm for heavy fabrics), and overcast the seam allowances along the hem.

Rice. 2. Machine stitch zigzag

3. Imitation of an overlock seam. If your sewing machine has a simulated overlock stitch, trim the seam allowances and overcast them in the same way as a zigzag stitch. The difference is only in the originality of the line.

Rice. 3. Imitation of an overlock seam

4. Processing allowances for ironing. This method of processing allowances is recommended for those dressmakers who want to ensure that the wrong side of the product looks perfect.

Rice. 4a. Hemming allowances in ironing

Rice. 4b. Sew allowances to the product

Rice. 4s. Finished allowances

5. Turning allowances with oblique trim. A beautiful underside is the calling card of this method. It can be used when sewing clothes from light, medium and thick fabrics.

Before starting work, it is necessary to measure the length of all allowances with an increase of 20 cm and buy a bias inlay with a hem on both sides with a width of 15 mm. Bias binding can be purchased at any hardware store or you can make your own. When choosing the color of the inlay, keep in mind that it is considered a special chic among fashion designers to grind the allowances with a contrasting color inlay.

Bend the inlay in half so that the lower half is slightly wider than the upper one (by 1-2 mm), there is no need to iron or baste the inlay. Wrap the product allowance with inlay. Sew the trim exactly to the edge, pulling the trim slightly so that wrinkles or wrinkles do not form. Make sure that the bottom edge of the inlay is stitched into the seam. Sequentially grind all sections, iron. For more details see

Rice. 5a. Trimming allowances with inlay

Rice. 5b. Underside control

Rice. 5s. Finished edged allowances

6. Double linen seam (French seam). In products made of thin and transparent fabrics, the allowances shine through the fabric, so their processing should be especially important, because in this case all the flaws on the wrong side will be visible, and this can not only worsen the appearance, but also completely ruin the product. That is why when sewing models from transparent fabrics, a double linen seam is often used. Processing allowances with a double seam (the second name is French seam) allows you to pack the sections inside the seam. Thus, we get a clean wrong side and an aesthetic appearance of the product from the outside.

Rice. 6d. The seam on the wrong side of the product in finished form

7. Light version of the French seam. This processing method can be used when sewing products from thin cotton fabrics. Stitch the details along the allowances to a width of 1.5 cm. Bend each allowance in half to the seam and iron. Then fold both allowances together, sweep and grind. Iron the allowances on one of the pieces.

Rice. 7. Folding allowances to the center

Rice. 7b. Connection allowances