Perm as a process

The mechanism of changing the shape of hair during perm. Perm is a process in which the hair becomes voluminous and pliable, and the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness. On the basis of perm, a variety of styling is performed. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as it was 60 years ago.

Human hair is made up of keratin, a water-insoluble protein containing spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cysteine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the action of perm preparations, it decomposes at the site of the cystine bond:

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

Once this bond is broken, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wound on bobbins, it takes the shape of an ellipse in cross section. It is known that straight hair in cross section is round, wavy has the shape of an ellipse, and strongly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be performed, for example, with a weak 1-3% hydrogen peroxide solution or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine bond is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process proceeds at pH = 9 - 11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair. Hair swells faster, the S-S cystine bonds break faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, the choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, Their structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), on the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Stages of perm. There are three stages of perm. At the first stage, they produce a chemical effect with the help of compounds and a physical effect with the help of bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

At the second stage, they produce a chemical effect - they fix the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

At the third stage Neutralization is performed - hardening of keratin.

The principle of perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of two-sulfur bridges, which create an internal connection in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

In the first phase of perm, the chemical process of deoxidation takes place. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks the disulfide bridges. This phase is where the chemical action takes place.

In the second phase there is a Cheat. The hair changes shape when wound on bobbins. Broken disulphurous bridges in keratin chains are displaced, and the hair takes the form of a bobbin. In this phase, mechanical action occurs.

In the third phase, Fixation occurs.

Thanks to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative, oxygen is released. By combining with hydrogen, it restores disulfide bridges. The hair is fixed in a new shape. His integrity and strength return to him, but in a new form (Fig. 83). This phase is where the chemical action takes place.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of the destroyed disulphurous bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. To do this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and accurately observe the exposure time. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the exposure time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. Conversely, if you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the exposure time, the curl will be very weak, and this perm will last a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. The chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed in terms of pH. pH scale included

It takes values ​​from 0 to 14; pure water, which is considered a Neutral Substance, corresponds to a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH below 7 is Acidic, and a pH above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes softening and swelling of the hair, while an acidic one causes contraction and hardening. There are devices and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. So, when a piece of paper impregnated with salts of nitric acid is immersed in an alkaline medium, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment, the color change is not so strong or not at all. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, then the resulting figure in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a weakly acidic reaction. Compositions for perm have a pH of about 10 with a shift to the alkaline side. The acidity index in neutralizing agents is about 3, this indicator is located in the acidic part of the scale. Until the master examines the condition of the client's hair and does not have data on previous cosmetic procedures, solutions with a pH closer to 7 should not be used. Ignorance can damage the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient of an alkaline waving lotion is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of an alkaline waving lotion is usually 8.2-9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than the acid-balanced one. Alkaline perm is sometimes done using a perm with water, with some hair requiring a plastic hood and others not.

Benefits of an alkaline perm include Stronger curls (usually last longer); possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to get a mulberry curl if the client's permanent was too weak before.

Acid-balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monothiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of the alkaline composition. This formulation is gentler on the hair and generally produces less tight curls than the alkaline cold wave. An acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5, the composition penetrates the hair more slowly than an alkaline, so the treatment of the hair lasts longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazon or an infra-heater (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow curling at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than regular ones, and their active ingredient is the same.

The benefits of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and longer but controlled processing times. Acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or dyed; in order to get curls or waves close to natural, a perm serves as the basis of a hairstyle. The disadvantage is that acid-based perm is less durable than the classic (alkaline-based), after 4-6 weeks the hair becomes less lush.

composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perms perform the same function: to fix curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important step. If the hair is not neutralized correctly, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. In general, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, and an acidic pH. Methods for applying neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Like alkaline perms, it has a pH of 7.4, but is much more gentle than acid-based chemicals.

Scientists developed the method of neutral perm taking into account the fact that there are so-called hydrophilic zones in the hair (repel water), which easily absorb excess perm fluid, in contrast to hydrophobic zones. A neutral perm smooths out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb liquid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perm is ideal for clients who have rough hair after perm and require more protection. A special keratin complex smooths out the damage in the stratum corneum already during the perm and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Choosing a permanent. The decision on which type of permanent should be applied (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern means for a permanent present a wide range of choices. There are alkaline formulations for bleached hair and acid-balanced formulations for coarse, naughty hair. Each of them gives excellent results, provided the right choice and following the instructions.

Preparatory work. The preparatory work for a chemical wave includes:

*Preparation of the workplace;

*Invitation of the client to the chair;

* Carrying out a dialogue;

*Hand washing and disinfection of instruments;

Preparation of devices: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for the fixer), two sponges (small for the composition, large for the fixer), applicators, gloves, measuring cup, warming cap and bobbins;

Combing and diagnosing hair: condition of hair (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (testing: on the fold elbow or behind the auricle, the composition is applied and incubated for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Performing a hygienic wash.

All haircuts of a clear, geometric shape are performed before perm.

Bobbin types and sizes. Bobbins are concave and straight. Concave Bobbins narrower in the center, gradually towards the ends

Expand; as a result, the curl is more steep at the end and loose at the roots of the hair. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl is even. The bobbin is equipped with an elastic band (elastic band) attached to one end and fastened to the other when the hair is already wound.

When choosing the size of the bobbin, it is necessary to take into account the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair. The number of waves, curls and splendor of hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. Hair characteristics such as length, bounce and texture are taken into account when choosing the size of the bobbin, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and elasticity require the hair to be divided into medium strands; bobbins should also be of medium size. With a fine texture and poor elasticity, the hair should be divided into smaller strands than with an average texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent damage to the hair. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To make a permanent wave on long hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands, wound evenly and close to the head. The division into small strands contributes to uniform wetting.

Perm was invented in the mid-1930s. Its purpose is to give the hair volume, splendor, suppleness, i.e. the possibility of long-term preservation of hairstyles.

The chemical composition of hair is a complex compound, the main parts of which are keratin and pigment. Keratin is a water-insoluble protein with a high content of sulfur, nitrogen, and amino acids.

The most important amino acid is cystine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the influence of perm agents, it breaks down at the site of the cystine bond. In this case, cysteine ​​is formed, due to which the hair becomes able to take the shape attached to it. It becomes plastic, its ability to withstand physical and chemical influences drops sharply.

When the bonds in this structure are broken, the hair becomes supple. With a perm, the hair is wound on bobbins, the shape of the hair and its cross section change. If you look at the cross section of a straight, curly and strongly curly hair, then it will be different. A straight hair has a round cross section, a curly hair has an oval cross section, and a strongly curly hair has a flattened oval.

Due to the presence of the amino acid cystine in the hair, the hair has good elasticity, straight hair does not hold the curl well when styling the hair, as it quickly returns to its original state. When exposed to perm products, the hair becomes pliable, they can be wound on any shape of bobbins, and they will take the form that they are given.

Preparations for perm have restorative properties, i.e. the broken cystine bond of keratin can be repaired. To restore the elasticity of the hair, it is necessary to use compounds with an oxidizing property. Therefore, to fix the curl, 3 ... 5% hydrogen peroxide H 2 0 2 is used - a fixer. When exposed to hydrogen peroxide, the cystine bond is restored, cysteine ​​is converted to cystine, and the hair acquires its original elasticity.

The process of perming hair takes place at pH 9...11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair, they swell faster, the S-S cystine bond breaks faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, the choice of the concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the hair, their structure, condition, on the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Preparations for perm are available for various types of hair:

• for healthy, hard-to-perm;
• for normal healthy, not subjected to chemical treatment;
• for colored ones.

Each drug has its own type of fixative or one common.

The basis of preparations for perm are thioorganic compounds and their derivatives. Thioglycolic acid CH 2 - S - HCOOH is present in the formula for perming hair.

Compounds related to thioglycolic acid make it possible to influence the shape of the hair at the normal temperature of the human hair.

Disadvantages of thioglycolic acid:

• in the air it emits hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan, which have a sharp unpleasant odor;
• is toxic, can cause painful phenomena - headache, general malaise, a decrease in the content of white blood cells;
• when working with solutions of thioglycolic acid, skin diseases are noted: redness and dryness, cracks, dermatitis, blistering rash, itching, eczema, urticaria, nail damage.

As a protective agent, when applying the solution to the hair, it is recommended to work with rubber gloves, as little as possible to breathe the fumes of the solution.

The principle of perm hair. The strength of healthy hair is provided by the presence of disulphurous bridges, which create an internal connection in keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

At the first stage of curling, a chemical process of deoxidation occurs. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which destroys the disulfide bridges. At this stage, a chemical effect occurs.

At the second stage, the hair is twisted. When winding hair on bobbins, the hair changes shape. Broken disulfide bridges in keratin chains are displaced, the hair takes the form that is given to it. Hair can be wound on any shape of bobbins, knotted, braided, etc. At this stage of the perm, a mechanical effect occurs: from a straight round section of the hair it turns into a curly ribbon-like shape.

At the third stage of curling, the hair is fixed. Thanks to the oxidizing agent in the fixative, oxygen is released. By combining with hydrogen, it restores disulfide bridges. Under the influence of the fixative, the cystine bond of keratin is restored, and the hair acquires its original elasticity, but in a new form. At this stage, there is a chemical effect on the hair. When hair is deoxidized, 30% of the disulphurous bridges are destroyed, which allows you to get a good elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. It follows that every third bridge must be broken. To maintain these indicators, it is important to choose the right chemical composition and accurately observe the duration of its exposure to the hair. If you take too strong a chemical composition or increase the duration of its exposure to the hair, the curl will become sensitive and will not keep its shape well. If you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the duration of its exposure to the hair, the curl will be weak, the perm will remain for a short time.

The chemical composition of the perm can be alkaline, acidic and neutral. Each group has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the master must be able to do various types of perms.

Alkaline perm. Ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, is the main active ingredient in permed hair products. The effect of the chemical alkaline composition on the hair is characterized by a good opening of the cuticle scales, the penetration of the composition freely into the hair. This explains the strong elasticity of the resulting curl, its long-term durability, which is an essential advantage of the alkaline curl. Such a perm is suitable primarily for those who want their hair to last as long as possible.

Alkaline perm is used for styling hair that is difficult to process, as well as in order to get a cool curl if the client's perm was weak before.

acid perm. The active ingredient in acid perm is glyceryl monothioglycolate, its pH is lower compared to the alkaline formulation. The advantages of acid curling are explained by the fact that the composition passes directly through the scales without opening them. In physics, this process is called osmosis. The advantages of such a perm are obvious. However, hair that has become too soft and silky is easily stretched at the root, which means that it does not hold volume. If the client prefers soft silky curls to volume, then it is difficult to find an alternative to acid perm. On the hair, such a perm does not last long, on the strength of 4-6 weeks.

Neutral perm. The pH of the neutral curl is 7.4. When developing compositions for neutral curls, hydrophobic zones (water repellent) were taken into account, which easily absorb excess liquid, unlike hydrophobic zones. Smooths out these differences neutral perm. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. With the help of a neutral perm, a very persistent curl is obtained, but in its appearance and tone it will differ from the alkaline one. The advantages of a neutral perm are, first of all, naturalness, persistent, rather elastic curl on soft hair.

6.1. History of perms

Perm is a long-term styling with a change in the structure of the hair with various preparations, performed at body temperature.

On the basis of perm, a variety of styling is performed.

The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape.

The first patents for cold perms were filed in 1935. Until that time, there was a perm performed in a hot way with the help of electric, and later with the help of steam machines. This method of curling hair was proposed in 1905 by Karl Nesler. At first, this method was not approved by hairdressers, because the condition of the hair deteriorated. But already in 1908 the method was patented and began to be used quite widely. The procedure was performed for several hours due to the bulkiness of the apparatus. In 1910, Nesler improved the apparatus. In 1924, the apparatus was further improved, proposed by Josef Mayer. The operational qualities of the device when performing the service allow it to become very popular.

Appeared in the 30s. 20th century chemicals were originally intended to straighten black hair to facilitate combing. But only after being used for winding hair for a long time, this remedy became widespread. During the Second World War, the cold permanent gains popularity in the United States, and after the war comes to Europe. The use of this curling method is universally recognized due to the presence of a number of advantages:

• the method does not depend on heat sources (which is safer for work and for the condition of the hair);
• using bobbins of different diameters, you can get a different curl - from the most elastic to soft and natural;
• ease of work;
• you can curl hair of any length and almost any structure;
• allows you to raise the root of the strand, since clamps are not used at its base.

In our country, a cold permanent appeared in the 50s. last century. The preparations used at that time for perm had an alkaline environment, a fairly high pH and had a rather aggressive effect on the hair. A little later, preparations for cold perms based on acidic components appeared. They have a lower pH than alkaline compounds (pH 5 - 7), and therefore they were less harmful to the hair. However, these drugs were not highly appreciated by professionals and consumers, since the perm obtained with their help, although it kept the hair healthy, did not last long.

6.2. General information about perm

Preparations for a cold permanent.

Currently, almost all preparations for a chemical permanent are made on the basis of thioorganic compounds or their derivatives. Such drugs allow you to change the structure of the hair at the temperature of the human body. Modern manufacturers today produce compositions that differ in pH.

Acid preparations for perms have a pH value of 5 - 7, which is close to that of skin or hair.

Alkaline preparations for perms have a pH value of 8.5 - 9.5 and are the most commonly used. They give a persistent elastic and long-lasting (can last up to 6 months or even more) curl. The main component is thioglycolic acid, the content of which is 6.5%.

In addition, the solution may include the following components:

• ammonia;
• crystalline borax;
• urotropin, which provides a limit to the swelling of the hair;
• oleic alcohol as an emulsifier;
• foaming components;
• methylcellulose;

• water as the main solvent;
• fragrances;
• various biological additives that ensure the safety of hair when exposed to a chemically aggressive environment.

Various manufacturing companies produce compositions for cold permanents of different concentrations and consistency (liquid or gley). In addition, each company has its own biologically active additives that provide healthy hair shine after chemical exposure, the ability to care for and preserve the color of previously dyed hair. In addition, it is known that the basal part of the hair and its tip have a different texture. The root is denser, the end of the hair is loose, the scales are raised, a hair section is possible. Modern preparations contain so-called care sensors, which are layered on the tip of the hair, provide care and less change in shape; the basal part changes shape to a greater extent. Thus, along the entire length, the hair becomes not only well-groomed, but also has a uniform curl.

The disadvantage of an alkaline permanent is the release of hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause headaches, malaise, dermatitis, or various allergic reactions in some people.

To fix the curl with an alkaline perm, hydrogen peroxide is used, the concentration of which in the solution should not exceed 3%. A modern fixer is an emulsion based on hydrogen peroxide. Available in concentrated form, for use it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

Acid-balanced drugs

Apply on weak and heavily colored hair. The main component of the waving solution is a mixture of esters based on amide mercaptocarboxylic acid with a pH of 4.0-6.5.

An important advantage of acid perm is the absence of hair swelling. In addition, the hair is cared for by compacting its structure. In addition, the hair after the permanent is less hygroscopic.

Winding the hair requires a stronger tension, since the keratin is not softened, but the sulfur bridges are displaced due to physical impact. In addition, the perm requires more time, since in order to obtain a curl, the composition needs to act on the hair longer.

Physico-chemical processes occurring in the hair during perm.

If we consider a section of the hair, we can see that:

Straight hair is round

Curly - oval shape.

In order for a round hair to acquire an oval shape, it is affected in two ways:

1. physical and

2. chemical.

A huge influence on the curl of the hair is exerted not only by the choice of the drug, but also by the distance between each curl.

Consider the structure of the hair. Outer layer:

1. Cuticle - consists of 8-9 layers of scales.

2. Cortical (middle layer) - has pigment and keratin chains. It is they who determine the strength of the hair, its structure. Figuratively speaking, the chains are parallel to each other and are connected by three types of bonds.

- Hydrogen (3) bonds are easily destroyed by water and allow, when moistened, to obtain a short curl when winding on curlers or scrolling hair during styling with a hairdryer. At the same time, keratin bonds are displaced, but do not break, the styling retains its shape either until the next wash, or for a shorter time (repeated combing and moisture weaken the elasticity of the curls).

Salt (2) bonds are broken in an alkaline environment and the hair swells.

Sulfur (cystine) bonds are destroyed under the influence of the chemical composition.

Figure 6.1 schematically shows the physicochemical processes that occur in the hair during perm.

Rice. 6.1. Physical and chemical processes in the hair during perm:
a - straight hair;

b - hair wound on bobbins - with physical impact (hair tension), keratin bonds are displaced;

c - the breakage of sulfur bridges under the influence of a chemical preparation is shown - the hair swells and the cystine bond turns into an unstable cysteine ​​one;

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 ..

The technology of perming hair by a hairdresser

Neutralization during perming hair by a hairdresser

The perm composition, whose pH is 8.5-9.5, acts like an alkali on the hair. If you leave a small part of it on your hair, it will gradually destroy them. Rinsing the hair with water cannot completely get rid of the perm composition. Therefore, the next important hair treatment operation for perm is neutralization with a weak solution of acetic or citric acid.

As you know, alkali is characterized by an excess of OH ions in solution. The greater their relative amount, the higher the concentration of alkali,

i.e., with a neutral reaction of the medium, the pH of the solution is 7 and the relative amount of hydrogen ions H + and hydroxide ion OH- - is approximately equal. Some excess of one or the other iodine is inevitable, but in hairdressing practice there is no need to accurately determine it. An increase in the alkalinity of the solution begins with an increase in pH, i.e., when it begins to exceed 7. As noted, the perm composition is an alkali of a small concentration with pH "9.

Acidic solutions, which include, in particular, citric and acetic acids, are characterized by the predominant amount of hydrogen ions H+. The more of them in the solution, the lower the pH of the medium, i.e., an increase in the number of hydrogen ions entails a decrease in the pH of the medium, starting from 7.

What happens in solution during a neutralization reaction? As you know, in a solution of any liquids in which water is present, there is a continuous decomposition and combination of water molecules according to the scheme HOH-----> H + OH.

One water molecule breaks down into one hydrogen ion H+ and one hydroxide ion OH-, which, when combined, again form a water molecule. If the reaction of the medium is neutral, i.e., the solution contains the same amount of one and the other ions, a continuous process of decomposition of water molecules and their combination occurs. In the case of the predominance of OH- ions, some of them are not able to form water due to the lack of a sufficient amount of hydrogen ions H+. By adding an acid in which hydrogen ions predominate to an alkaline solution, the following picture can be observed: as the number of hydrogen ions increases, the number of hydroxide ions will correspondingly decrease, which, having met each other, will form water. Thus, as soon as there is one hydrogen ion for each free hydroxide ion, the reaction of the medium will become neutral. If there are slightly more hydrogen ions, the reaction of the medium will be slightly acidic. In hairdressing practice, due to the inability to accurately control the pH of the medium before neutralization and after it, it is necessary to use compositions that approximately ensure the complete neutralization of alkali. Usually, a slightly acidic solution of acetic or citric acid is used for these purposes.

For the composition of such a weak concentration, you can take 2.5 g of citric acid and dissolve in 1 liter of warm water. For better neutralization of alkali residues on the hair, they must be rinsed well with the prepared composition. One rinse is not enough - alkali remains on some parts of the hair. The operation must be repeated several times. To completely wash out the alkali, the following is recommended: under the wing

(adaptation to the chair for washing the head) substitute a bowl where the composition flows after rinsing; from a bowl it is poured into a jug, from which it is again poured onto the hair. The operation should be repeated 4-5 times.

After neutralization, the hair is wrung out, wiped with a towel and wound on curlers.

When perming heavily bleached and significantly loosened hair with hydrogen peroxide, you need to increase the amount of water in the neutralization solution to 2 liters, leaving the amount of acid 2.5 g unchanged, or, conversely, halve the content of citric acid without changing the amount of water.

The fasteners are made up of:

1) 50 ml of water; 4-6 tablets of hydroperite; 7-10 ml of shampoo without additives;

2) 50 ml of water; 4 drops of 40% perhydrol or 7 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide; 7 ml of shampoo;

3) 5 gr. water; 5 gr. shampoo 40 gr. hydrogen peroxide 30%.

In all cases, it is well diluted, mixed and foamed. Keep on hair for 10-15 minutes.

Effect of acids and alkalis on hair and skin.

Alkali. All alkaline solutions affect the skin and hair in a destructive way, so they must be handled very carefully. At the end of the curl, they must be neutralized and completely removed from the hair.

Acids. It neutralizes the effect of the applied alkalis on the hair and skin, providing an astringent effect. When an acid is combined with an alkali, a neutralization reaction will occur, and both substances will lose their basic qualities.

What happens to hair during a perm.

According to the chemical composition of the hair is a complex compound, one of the main parts of which is keratin. Before the perm, the keratin scales of the surface layer of the hair are tightly closed.

Keratin is a protein consisting of nineteen amino acids that are in a bound state and form polypeptide chains of the protein. One of the most important amino acids is cystine, which contains a lot of sulfur and is cross-linked with disulfide. Disulfide bonds provide strength to the hair formula.

The amino acid cystine has the chemical formula

S - CH2- CH (NH2) - COOH

S - CH2 - CH (NH2) - COOH

Under the influence of the curling composition, this compound decomposes at the site of the cystine bond S-S: R-S-S-R H2 RSH + HSR.

Disulfide bonds are broken by thioglycolic acid. Cestine bonds are broken. Protein fibers are damaged, and the hair loses elasticity, the scales open. At this point, the hair becomes an almost arbitrarily formed mass, which, under the influence of winding on bobbins of various configurations, can be given any new shape. To make this form stable, it must be stabilized, or fixed. For this, fixatives are used (a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide H2O2). Alkalis in the hair are neutralized and stop their effect. At this point, the swelling of the hair stops, and they begin to return to their original state. At the moment of fixation in a new form of hair, the S-.S caestine bond is restored, which gives the hair keratin its original strength and elasticity, the scales close.

Only perfect fixation can restore the broken structure of molecules, cells and hair connections. If it is done superficially, thioglycolic acid remains on the hair and bonds are not restored, and the hair is under the destructive influence of thioglycolic acid.

Hair in the process of curling loses some of its weight. This happens as a result of the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids, when a small part of the hair substance goes into solution and is washed out. Each subsequent perm becomes less beautiful.

What determines curl speed and curl elasticity?

Curling speed depends on:

Type of chemical composition;

Hair structures;

holding time;

Ambient temperatures.

The elasticity of the curl depends on:

Type of chemical composition;

Hair structures;

holding time;

Ambient temperatures;

bobbin diameter;

Fixations;

internal warmth.

Subject: Simple perm hair.

Preparatory work.

1. Inspection of the scalp.

2. Determining the condition of the hair.

3. Choice of composition type.

4. Choice of winding method.

5. Choice of bobbin diameter.

6. Preparation of tools and accessories.

Tools and fixtures.

For curling you will need:

1. Two warm towels.

2.Comb-tail.

3. Waterproof peignoir.

4. Bobbins of different diameters.

5. Composition for curling and fixative.

6 Insulating cap.

7. Two cups.

8. Two sponges.

9. Beaker.

10. Gloves.

11. Vaseline or cream.

13. Comb with wide teeth.

14. If necessary, hydroperid.

15. Paper for curling hair.

The washing up.

Perm is performed only on clean hair. Therefore, before curling, they must be washed, regardless of when they were last washed. This will open the caticle slightly, which will accelerate the penetration of the composition into the cortex.

Hair should be washed once, without massaging the scalp, in order to keep the fatty layer on it and, thus, protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. Having soaked excess moisture with a towel, comb the hair. Neither before nor after washing, you should not use a hair brush, so as not to damage the cuticle.

Pre-cut.

If the hair is very long, it is necessary to perform a preliminary haircut, slightly longer than desired. It is necessary to tell the client in advance that after curling the hair looks a little shorter. After curling, the final haircut is made. If it is not done, the hair of overdried ends will be poorly combed and look unkempt.

Curling hair.

The choice of bobbin diameter depends on the quality of the hair and the degree of curl desired. Thin bobbins form small elastic waves. The larger their diameter, the larger the waves are, in terms of elasticity they are smaller. The client should be warned of possible dissatisfaction. When choosing bobbins, one should be guided by the fact that the wave obtained as a result of curling will be equal to half the diameter of the bobbin. When winding, the strands are neatly separated with a comb - a ponytail in a straight line, but if you do not want it to remain a clear line, then you can separate the strand in a zigzag way. When wrapping hair, you should follow some rules. They are the same as when wrapping on curlers.

Hair curling methods.

direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition, and then wound onto a bobbin. Curling starts from the bottom of the neck, as this is the coldest area and the healthiest hair grows there, which needs a longer exposure. In order for the curl to turn out uniform, the hair must be wound very quickly. After wrapping, the hair is wetted again.

indirect method consists in the fact that wet hair is wound on curlers, and then moistened with a perming solution. As it dries, the hair is moistened with a spray bottle.

mixed method used for long hair. Before winding the composition, only the ends of the hair are moistened (departing 2/3 from the root). The rest of the strand is not wetted. After winding all the hair, they are wetted with the composition in two steps.

Hair curling methods.

According to the way the bobbins are located on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical.

With the horizontal method hair is wound on a bobbin located horizontally with respect to the base of the strand. Winding is made from the end of the strand and its base.

With the vertical method the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to the ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head.

Application of curing composition.

When all the hair is wound on the bobbin, the composition is quickly and evenly applied to each bobbin. For the first time, apply the composition quite a bit. The second time, the composition is applied to the hair more. A third time, if necessary, is applied until the liquid is no longer absorbed. During the application of the composition, the client should be given a napkin in his hands to wipe the composition from his forehead and neck. When wetting the hair with a composition or a fixative, it is impossible to save money - the hair must be well saturated. Before applying, it is advisable to lubricate the cream along the hairline, and tie a napkin rolled up with a flagellum around the head.

Holding time.

If wrapping on curlers, then the curl should be sufficiently elastic, a small bobbin is used. If a perm is used as an independent hairstyle, then the curl must be well formed and elastic, the bobbin is chosen depending on the client's desire. If the hair is elastic, thick, hard, then the exposure time of the composition on the hair will be up to 40 minutes, depending on the curl. If the hair is normal or close to it, then the exposure time is 25-30 minutes. If the hair is thin, soft, then the exposure time is 20 minutes. If the hair is super soft (looks like fluff), then the exposure time is 15-20 minutes, but remember that such hair is chemical for one week and the hair will suffer very much.

Fixation.

The fixative restores the hair structure disturbed by chemicals. The final result of the whole process depends on the fixation. If the fixation is superficial, then we can assume that all the work has gone down the drain, you just ruined the hair.

The fixing solution is prepared immediately before use. After thoroughly washing off the chemical composition, the hair must be blotted with a towel, otherwise the water will reduce the concentration of the fixative and its effect will weaken. After applying the fixative and a certain exposure time, the bobbins are carefully removed from the hair without pulling the curl. Then apply the fixative again.

Fixative exposure time.

Hair length	Rinsing time in minutes	Exposure time Retainer in mm	Total amount of fixative in mm
		From the condition of the hair

Rinsing.

After the composition, rinse your hair with hot water until clear water comes out. Rinse hair with lukewarm water after fixative until shampoo is rinsed off. After that, you can apply a conditioner.

Technology for perm hair.

1. Washing the head.

2. Dry your hair with a towel.

3. Comb and divide hair into zones; to the occipital middle, lateral right occipital, lateral left occipital to temporal-lateral right, temporal-lateral left, parietal.

4. Wear gloves

5. Pour the composition into a plastic cup or bowl.

6. Approximately somewhere in five strands, apply the composition to the hair in the occipital middle zone.

7. We wind, gradually wetting the composition. First, the occipital zones, then the temporal-lateral, then the parietal.

8. We impregnate all the twisted hair with the composition.

9. We put on a warming cap, or a plastic bag and two flannelette towels.

10. We stand the time.

11. Without spinning the bobbins, rinse your hair with hot water.

12. Soak the hair with a towel.

13. Check the hair for a curl.

14. We direct the latch.

15. We apply a fixative on the hair, on the bobbins that are not untwisted.

16. We stand the time

17. Spin the bobbins

18. Apply the fixative again.

19. Keeping Time

20. If desired, you can apply a balm.

21 Wash off the fixative with warm water.

22. Wipe hair.

23. We tell the requirements for wearing a permed hair.

Requirements for customers to wear a perm.

1. You can rinse your hair with sour water 2 hours after Khimki. This secures the curl. Use vinegar or citric acid for this.

2. Perform treatment.

3. Curlers can be wound one week after the Khimki.

4. You can dye your hair after two weeks after Khimki.

5. You can not use a hair dryer, curling iron.

6. Do not comb wet hair.

7. Do not leave a wet towel twisted in your hair.

8. It is impossible to discolor, and dyes hair with henna after khimki.

9. On the same day, wash your hair in the evening to completely wash off the compounds.

10. Don't go to bed with wet hair.

11. The master must clearly answer questions and explain everything necessary.

Topic: Methods of perm hair.

"Curling elongated hair onto bobbins of different diameters."

Curling purpose: creating the effect of naturally curly hair.

Winding is done in two stages, on bobbins of different diameters, small and large.

1st stage. The first strand is wound onto a small diameter bobbin. The second strand is combed off and remains unwound. The third strand is wound onto a small-diameter bobbin, and close to the first.

2nd stage. The left strands are wound onto large-diameter bobbins, which are located in the second tier. As a result of this winding method, small tight curls at the root support large curls and create the necessary volume.

"Twins."

Purpose of curling : Creates an even curl on very long hair.

First, stepping back from the root by 10-15 cm, pulling the strand, we wind it to the roots. Then, combing the strand and stepping back another 10-15 cm, we wind the second section of hair to the first bobbin. Thus, the strand can be wound on as many bobbins - - twins, which its length requires.

"Basic (partial) perm".

Curling purpose: Creating volume at the root while maintaining uncurled ends. It is used for curling only hair roots that have grown back after parchment.

1st way. Winding with this method is carried out from the middle of the strand to the roots of the hair. The ends of the hair remain free, to protect them from the effects of a frizzy composition, they can be lubricated with a strong creamy conditioner.

2nd way. For its application, you will need the most flat polyethylene, equal in width to the length of the bobbin. They should be long enough to cover the part of the hair that does not need to be curled.

The strands are wound from ends to roots along with the ends of the hair covered with polyethylene. In this case, the composition is applied only by an indirect method.

"Neva wave".

Curling purpose: creating a light curl and waves that give the hair splendor.

It is carried out on plastic curlers with a flat surface or bobbins of a very large diameter. The curl is light, natural, the hair becomes pliable. The method can also be used when you just need to degrease your hair.

"Volume Curl".

Purpose of curling : create a voluminous hairstyle, wavy along the entire length. Hair is wound on soft, flexible curlers - rollers - not very large in diameter. Curling is performed only on hair with a normal structure and a fairly strong composition.

On very soft and weak hair, the curl almost does not appear.

"Aster".

Purpose of curling : Giving volume, splendor only to the upper part of the hairstyle.

With a short but voluminous haircut, it is advisable to wind the hair at the crown with an “asterisk”, that is, separate the strands with radial parting coming from one point of the head. The direction of winding the strands can be alternated.

Curling the ends of the hair.

Curling purpose: getting a curl only at the ends of the hair.

All hair is separated by radial parting (the head is divided in the form of orange slices) into 5-6 segments and rubber bands are fixed in bundles along the marginal hairline. Winding hair on bobbins is done in any way.

Ruffled curls.

Curling purpose: creating the effect of "crumpled" hair.

The curl starts from the bottom. We separate the strand 3X3 cm. We braid the resulting strand into a pigtail moistened with the composition, fix it with an elastic band. If desired, the ends of the strands can be left smooth or wound onto a bobbin.

Spiral curl.

Curling purpose: creating a cascade of curls with a vertical wave.

It is performed on special spiral bobbins, you can also use ordinary, not very short ones. Rolling starts from the bottom. We separate the strand 2x2, twist it slightly into a tourniquet and, holding the end of the stick in the left hand, wrap the strand in a spiral around it with the right hand. If the length of the stick is not enough, you can continue to wind the hair around it in the opposite direction.

Perm for children.

Curling purpose: creating the effect of naturally curly hair. Plastic curlers must be used.

Hair is divided into 8 strands, collected in bundles, fixed with elastic bands and passed through large diameter curlers. Then the hair is wound on bobbins and gently moistened with the composition. Wound in this way do not have a large volume from the roots, and most importantly, the scalp is not exposed to chemicals.

Rules to which the hairdresser must adhere.

1. When performing a perm, do not use metal tools and accessories, as strong oxidation of tools and devices begins, which leads to serious damage to the hair.

2. For hair that requires healing treatment - emaciated and sick, perms cannot be done.

3. Before performing a perm, you should ask about the well-being of the client, since perm cannot be performed if the following factors are present: illness, stress, pregnancy, breastfeeding, menstruation.

4. The Soviet preparation for perm cannot be used "before" and "after" bleaching or highlighting and after using vegetable henna dye, because the hair may break off.

5. Perm will not work if the room is less than 24 degrees in winter and 22 degrees in summer.

6. You can not bend too low when working with chemicals, because they affect the respiratory organs and can cause serious illness.

7. Perming is done only with gloves.

8. When performing a perm, you can not put the client under the dryer, as the hair overheats and dries up and burns out.

9. Remember that Khimki contains; acid, it is very harmful when it comes into contact with the skin and inhalation. It is necessary to ventilate the room for a long time after each client.

10. Remember that the composition on the hair is valid for another 48 hours.

11. Do not leave the bottle with the drug open.

12. You can not do a perm, if on the client's head: scratches, ulcers, cuts.

13. Do not perm on very dry or very thin hair.

14. If permed often, the hair loses its ability to recover, it becomes dry and dull.

15. Before a perm, you should wash your hair, regardless of when you washed it.

16. Perm dries hair very much, so it is necessary to use balms, creams, masks for hair damaged by perm.

17. After a perm, you can not use a hair dryer and curling iron.

Control questions for passing the test.

1. What preparations for perm are used, what requirements do you know?

2. What can you say about the alkaline preparation?

3. Tell us about the soft alkaline preparation and the gel-like preparation?

4. Tell us about the acid-balanced preparation?

5. What can you say about the retainer?

6. What fixators do you know, tell me?

7. What does the retainer consist of?

8. What is the fixator for?

9.How do acids and alkalis affect hair?

10. What happens to the hair during a perm?

11. What determines the curling speed?

12. What tools and supplies do you need to do a perm?

13 Why do you need to wash your hair? What role does pre-cutting play?

14. Tell us about winding hair on bobbins?

15. What methods of winding hair do you know, tell me? What can you say about cheating methods?

16. How is a curling compound applied?

17. What can you say about the exposure time of the composition?

18. Tell us about the fixation and the time of the effect of the fixation on the hair?

19. How is perm done?

20. What are the requirements for wearing a perm do you know?

21. What methods of perm do you know?

22. How is long hair curled?

23. How is twin curling done?

24. How is root perm performed?

25. How is the “aster” volumetric perm performed?

26. How are crimped curls and curling hair ends done?

27. Tell us about the spiral curl?

28. How is perming performed for children?

29. What rules should a hairdresser follow?

SECTION: HAIR COLORING.

Hair coloring is a very complex and creative type of work today, coloring techniques are becoming more complex and interesting. Every detail plays a role in this process; type of dye, percentage of oxidizing agent, technique of execution, exposure time and even the taste of the hairdresser and the ability to convince the client of the correctness of his decision.

Natural hair color.

The natural color of the hair depends on the natural melanin pigment containing the coloring matter and on the amount of air bubbles.

Pigments are of two types: granular (granular) and scattered (diffuse).

Pigment is formed in the hair root and even moves along the fibrils. It spreads unevenly, the closer to the outer layer of the hair, the less coloring matter becomes; they are no longer in the box. There are more of them in dark hair than in light hair.

Granular pigments give hair a black to brown color. Black-brown melanin is called eumelanin. Scattered pigments give a red to yellow color. Red-yellow melanin is called pheomelanin.

Each person has such a unique combination of natural pigments that it is almost impossible to meet models with the same hair color.

Having lost the natural pigment, the hair becomes colorless, gray.

There is also such a phenomenon as albinism - a congenital absence of pigmentation of the hair, skin, and iris of the eyes. But albinism can also occur as a result of skin diseases and poisoning with strong poisons (for example, arsenic)

Subject: Hair coloring products.

Requirements for modern dyes.

Preparations for changing hair color should:

Be persistent, i.e. do not wash off the hair too quickly and do not fade in the sun;

It is good to paint over gray hair;

Do not give undesirable effects when interacting with other drugs used in a hairdressing salon;

Be comfortable at work;

Easy to mix and distribute through the hair;

Do not drip from hair;

It is good to wash off from the hair and from the skin at the end of the coloring process (the process itself should not be very long);

Have a pleasant smell.

Classification of drugs that change hair color.

All dyes are divided into 4 groups

1. Brightening and bleaching

2. Oxidation dyes begin to appear only when interacting with an oxidizing agent, entering into a chemical reaction with it due to a certain percentage of hydrogen peroxide, they are also called chemical dyes.

3. Toning and tinting (tone on tone) - do not contain ammonia (i.e., do not lighten the natural pigment). Tonic penetrate only into the cuticle, and tone-on-tone dyes also envelop the natural pigment of the hair, due to which they are quite resistant. These dyes are also called physical dyes.

4. Dyes of plant origin - are able to give the hair an intense shade only with constant use.

Substances used in hair coloring and bleaching.

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) - a colorless viscous liquid is an explosive substance. 30% hydrogen peroxide is called perhydrol.

Perhydrol. Promotes the entry of oxygen into the reaction with melanin, activates the manifestation of color-forming components.

Under the influence of light and heat, hydrogen peroxide easily decomposes into water and oxygen.

H2O2 light H2O + O2

Therefore, perhydrol should be stored in a dark container with a ground stopper, filling the vessel to 4/5 of the volume, and in a cool, dark place.

Oxidizer various concentrations ready to use. It is intended for use with creams - paints and preparations for bleaching hair:

one). Stabilized hydrogen peroxide used to bleach hair;

2). Soft creamy oxidizer, consisting of hydrogen peroxide of various concentrations of 3, 6, 9, 12% and a cream base, which improves the coloring process, makes the oxidizer more gentle and gives the hair extra shine and excellent quality. The preparation quickly and qualitatively mixes up with dye and provides uniform coloring. Contains flavored additives that eliminate the smell of ammonia.

Chemical dyes are mixed with an oxidizing agent in a ratio of 1:1, and blond dyes - groups are mixed in a ratio of 1:2 or even 1:3.

Activating substances (alkalis) - ammonia, ammonium bicarbonate are added to preparations for coloring and lightening hair in order to activate hydrogen peroxide. They contribute to the swelling of the hair cuticle, the manifestation of the dye and the partial destruction of the pigment. In modern dyes, the ammonia content is maximally reduced.

Blondoran - catalyst, thickener. It is a universal preparation with an intensive degree of clarification, the level of which depends on the concentration of the oxidizing agent and the time of exposure. It introduced magnesium oxide, magnesium peroxide, to speed up the process - ammonium bicarbonate and other ammonium salts.

Illuminating drugs.

For professional use, the hairdresser uses:

Igora by Schwarzkopf

IGORAVARIO BLOND PLUS - compact brightening powder;

Blondorant firm Londa

BLONDORAN SUPERBLONDIERMITTEL

CLASSIS - Compact Illuminating Powder

Solaris company Perma.

SOLARIS - brightening powder and many others, each hairdresser chooses the one he likes best of the preparations. These drugs are called blondoran. These preparations are separately used an oxidizing agent of different concentrations of hydrogen peroxide. These preparations are economical in use, do not stick the hair and do not dry out on the hair, suitable for any type of hair and for all bleaching techniques. Depending on the choice of the appropriate degree of oxidation, hair lightening up to 7 tones can be achieved.

Chemicals.

Now a large number of companies and a lot of hair dyes. The dyes are resistant, enriched with vitamins, protect the hair structure during the dyeing process, give the hair a radiant shine, silkiness, saturation of shades, some of them paint over gray hair by 100%.

For professional use, the company's paints are used.

WELLA, LONDA, L'OREAL, Schwarzkopf.

Each company produces many varieties of paints, they are divided into: professional- these paints can be used by a professional hairdresser; unprofessional- these paints can be used by clients, dyeing their hair themselves, and hairdressers for customer service.

physical drugs.

These preparations are easy to use, have many shades, do not contain ammonia and hydrogen peroxide, are quickly washed off, do not paint over gray hair, give only a shade to the hair.

The physical drugs are :

Toning shampoos. These shampoos have a double action: wash your hair and color your hair at the same time. The longer you use this shampoo, the more intense the color will appear.

Tint foam . The product does not contain brightening agents, therefore it cannot lighten hair. Gives hair juicy shades and irresistible color.

Tinted paints of temporary action . These paints exist in the form of ink, powder, conditioner. The molecules of their pigments are large in size, and therefore they do not penetrate into the hair. Rinses out on the first wash.

Preparations related to physical dyes are rarely used in a hairdressing salon.

Herbal preparations.

Many plants are used for coloring and hair care. But henna and basma are especially famous and widespread.

Henna is extracted from the henna shrub growing in North America, the countries of the East, on the southern shores of the Mediterranean Sea.

The stem, leaves and flowers are dried and then ground into a powder. The older the shrub, the weaker the paint. Fresh henna powder is green in color. Its shelf life is 12 months.

The packaging must be very tight, otherwise oxidation begins already in the package itself: the powder becomes dark in color; gathers in lumps and loses activity.

Basma are the dried and powdered leaves of the tropical indigo shrub. The powder has a grayish green color.

In hairdressing salons, these drugs are not used, but they are well distributed as a remedy at home.

Types of hair treatment

1. Lightening:

Obtaining a new color, lighter than the original at least one tone. There is a significant destruction of the pigment, which makes it possible to dye the hair in lighter tones;

Ø Removal of paint from previously dyed hair or correction of hair unsuccessfully dyed in dark tones;

Ø Loosening the scaly layer to facilitate the penetration of dye particles into the inner layer of the hair.

2.Bleaching (blonding) - the highest degree of clarification. The pigment is completely destroyed and becomes colorless. Bleaching can be both an independent process and a preparatory one, in the case of coloring many steps lighter.

3.Coloring - obtaining a new hair color by oxidizing the color-forming components and replacing the natural pigment with an artificial one.

4.Toning - slight change in hair color, giving them a deeper shade. The natural pigment is not affected.

5.highlighting - lightening (up to different levels) of individual strands of hair