Types of hair coloring - features, description of technology and reviews. Coloring with the second group of dyes Primary hair coloring

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Staining with the second group of dyes

Completed by: Kireiko Margarita

1. Dyes of the second group

Dyes of the second group are chemical (oxidative) dyes, which are also used with oxidizing agents, give a lasting color, as they react with the hair pigment, partially destroy it and color the hair.

Chemical dyes can completely change the color of the hair, even if this hair is completely gray. During the dyeing process, the surface of the hair becomes open and natural pigments are removed, depending on the natural color, to a greater or lesser extent. Where the pigments were, particles of paint penetrate. Fixing deep in the hair, they are no longer washed off with water.

Chemical dyes are liquid, jelly-like and creamy. They are dissolved with an oxidizing agent.

When choosing a dye, it is very important to take into account the natural color of the hair. Dull brown can be turned into a radiant chestnut, dull blond hair can be given a new shine.

The choice of hair treatment method, preparations, their concentration, temperature regime depends on the structure of the hair and the condition of the scalp. Therefore, before proceeding with coloring, it is necessary to assess the condition of the hair and scalp. It is also important to remember that hair coloring should be done with preparations that are as gentle as possible to the hair.

If the client has a tendency to allergies, it is advisable to test for susceptibility to this type of dye. To do this, a small amount of the drug is applied to dry skin behind the ear. If after 24 hours the skin turns red and irritation appears on it, then in this case it is better not to use this drug. If there are wounds or signs of skin diseases on the scalp, coloring should be discarded so as not to worsen the client's health.

Before coloring, the head is not washed in order to preserve the fatty layer that protects the hair and scalp. To remove the remnants of varnish, mousse or other care products from the hair, it is best to comb them from the hair with a hairbrush before coloring. If, however, the head is excessively dirty, you can wash it once, trying not to touch the skin.

The client's clothing must be securely protected. The skin along the marginal line of hair growth can be lubricated with a protective cream - this will protect it from irritation and from staining with dye.

The master must work in gloves to protect the skin of the hands. All tools and accessories should not have metal parts, since when the dye interacts with metal, unwanted metal compounds appear that adversely affect the hair and the quality of the dye.

When determining the color of the client's hair, a scale of natural shades is used. In this case, a strand of hair should be lifted and examined in the light, since in the total mass the hair seems to be somewhat darker. The amount of gray hair is taken into account as a percentage of the total mass of hair.

To prepare the coloring mixture, a special plastic bowl or shaker is used. When compiling a complex mixture of several paints, it is necessary to mix all the components very carefully until a homogeneous mass. The paint should be mixed just before it is applied, since the oxidation process begins immediately upon mixing and after a while the color intensity weakens. The rules for choosing the color of the dye, the features of the color of gray hair, as well as the features of various dyes will be discussed in detail in subsection. 6.7 et seq.

Before applying the dye, the hair should be divided by two perpendicular partings through the crown into four parts. First, the dye is applied along the partings, and then on the occipital zone, since it is colder and the process there is less intensive. With gray hair, the paint should be applied first to places with the highest percentage of gray hair. The dye must be applied quickly and accurately so that the intensity of the color throughout the mass of the hair is uniform. You need to do this in 10-15 minutes. The strands should be so thin that the paint can soak them (the thicker the hair, the thinner the strand). It should be remembered that each hair should be well saturated with paint.

There is a concept of primary and secondary coloring. Primary coloring is the coloring of previously undyed hair. Secondary coloring is the coloring of the regrown part of the hair. During the primary coloring, the dye is applied, retreating from the root at a distance of 2-4 cm, depending on the length of the hair. This is due to the fact that at the roots the hair stains faster. In the secondary coloring, the dye should be applied very accurately to the regrown part of the strand - previously dyed hair should not be exposed to the drug again.

Special care must be taken when dyeing permed hair. They are more porous and therefore absorb the dye very quickly. They should be dyed a week after curling, and the staining process should be reduced by 5-10 minutes.

It is very important to observe the exposure time. Its countdown begins after the complete application of the dye. The holding time and the use of additional heat depends on the manufacturer of the dye. After applying the dye, a "shell" of paint should not form on the head, which can create a greenhouse effect and make it difficult for free oxygen to escape. Therefore, after applying the dye, it is recommended to loosen the hair. If the dye gets into the eyes, they should be rinsed very thoroughly with water.

Before washing the dye from the hair, it is necessary to carry out a control to ensure that the color of the hair roots and ends is uniform. To do this, you need to move the paint from the root part with the end of the comb, then from the ends and compare them. The areas of gray hair are also monitored, and if it turns out that the gray hair has not yet been dyed, the dye exposure time should be increased. 5 minutes before the end of the exposure time, it is recommended to carefully comb the hair to even out the color.

Upon reaching the desired color, emulsification is carried out: a small amount of warm water is applied to the hair, slightly foamed and distributed along the entire length of the hair, while massaging movements are made along the marginal hairline. This makes it easy to remove the dye from the scalp and add shine to the hair.

After that, the hair should be thoroughly rinsed with water, then with a special shampoo and treated with a neutralizing balm to stop the influence of dye residues in order to avoid a sluggish oxidation process after dyeing, lightening or bleaching the hair. There are special shampoos that remove all residual elements of a chemical reaction and normalize the condition of the scalp.

After dyeing, it is imperative to give the client recommendations on the proper care of dyed hair, otherwise the paint can quickly wash off and fade, and the client will mistakenly attribute this to the poor work of the hairdresser or the poor quality of the dye. 3.2. Chemical dyes (Group II)

Among the commercially available chemical dyes, the following should be noted:

Cream - paints "Ro "Color Bio - tone", "Excellence - cream", "Vellaton", "Palette-te", "Belcolor" have a variety of colors and shades. These dyes do not harm the hair, are persistent, paint over gray hair. Cream - paints are very convenient for use at home.

Dyes "Carmen", "Blanche", "Safran" (France) have 80 shades in their palette. Covers gray hair for a natural look. Dyes are suitable for all types of hair, do not cause allergies and significantly improve the appearance of hair.

Dye "Activia" (Spain) restores the structure and shine of the hair, because it contains protein, plant extracts and oils. The dye palette has 70 shades.

Dye "Igora Royal" (Germany) does not damage the hair structure when dyed. It is used with the oxidizing agent "Igora oxygen" 3, 6, 9, 12%. The dye has a special group that simultaneously brightens and dyes hair in various shades of blond color.

The dye "Effect of nature" (America) is presented in a palette of 20 colors. Does not destroy the hair structure and includes natural ingredients. The dye does not contain ammonia, alkalis and hydrogen peroxide, but despite this, it has increased stability and paints over gray hair well.

Dyes "Londacolor 200" and "Londacolor 300" (Germany) are quite popular. Dyes contain a rich palette of colors and shades and paint over gray hair well. "Londacolor 200" should be used with 6, 9, 12% oxidant, and "Londacolor 300" with 6.9.12% "Londaxid". The novelty of the Londa company is Londacolor 400, which includes especially juicy and bright colors in its palette.

Dye "Triocolor" (Yugoslavia) has a lanolin base and contains protein. The dye does not contain ammonia. It is used with an oxidizing agent hydrogen 6, 9.12%.

Dye - gel "Coleston 2000" (firm "Vella") has the most gentle effect, well paints over gray hair. It is used with 6, 9.12% Velaxon. The dye has a special group that simultaneously brightens and dyes hair in various shades of blond color.

Dye "Preference" (France) has a special group for dyeing gray hair and is used with 6.9.12% oxidant. Also in the dye there is another special group that allows you to simultaneously lighten and dye your hair in various shades of blond color.

The latest developments among the dyes of the II - th group are the Scandinavian Cream Color (8 CC) and Color Fashion paints. These dyes have bright iridescent shades, paint over gray hair well and mix very easily with each other, forming many additional shades. Dyes do not violate the structure of the hair and are used with 6, 9.12% oxidant.

2. Toning and coloring with chemical dyes

chemical dye hair toning

Toning - dyeing hair in different tones of the same color. For tinting, two or three shades of the same color and dye name are selected. Any colors are used: blond, light brown (for spring and summer types), brown, black (for autumn and winter types). Shades of the selected color can be contrasting (hazelnut + mahogany + dark chestnut) or combined with each other (amber + cognac).

Coloring - dyeing hair in different colors. In the coloring technique, dyes of the same name are used, which have three to four different colors and shades. Colors can be contrasting, bright (garnet + copper + pearl + eggplant) or more calm, close in saturation and color (dark brown with a golden hue + light brown with a golden hue + copper - red + amber). It will turn out very beautiful if you combine red and purple, golden and ashy shades with each other.

Before dyeing, everything you need is prepared: several bowls and brushes, gloves, a cape, a comb - ponytail, hair clips, foil. Dyes are prepared in various bowls.

Toning and coloring can be done in several ways: circular technique, tape technique, with an iridescent effect, on a disk (toning).

For toning and coloring, it is best to use dyes "Igora Royal", "Loadacolor 400", "Preference", "Scandinavian Cream Color", "Color fashion", "Coleston 2000", "Activia". For coloring with the presence of light tones (for rather dark hair of the autumn type), you can use various blondorans as a preparatory dye.

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Dyes of the second group are chemical (oxidative) dyes, which are also used with oxidizing agents, give a lasting color, as they react with the hair pigment, partially destroy it and color the hair.

Chemical dyes are liquid, jelly-like and creamy. They are dissolved with an oxidizing agent.

When choosing a dye, it is very important to take into account the natural color of the hair. Dull brown can be turned into a radiant chestnut, dull blond hair can be given a new shine.

If the client has a tendency to allergies, it is advisable to test for susceptibility to this type of dye. To do this, a small amount of the drug is applied to dry skin behind the ear.

If after 24 hours the skin turns red and irritation appears on it, then in this case it is better not to use this drug. If there are wounds or signs of skin diseases on the scalp, coloring should be discarded so as not to worsen the client's health.

Special care must be taken when dyeing permed hair. They are more porous and therefore absorb the dye very quickly.

They should be dyed a week after curling, and the staining process should be reduced by 5-10 minutes.

After coloring, it is imperative to give the client recommendations on the proper care of dyed hair, otherwise the paint can quickly wash off and fade, and the client will mistakenly attribute this to the poor work of the hairdresser or the poor quality of the dye.

Primary color.

Dye exposure time.

Blonding wash.

Secondary discoloration.

When the hair grows back, the bleaching composition is applied only to the regrown part, the exposure time ends when the required level of lightening is reached (the law of aesthetics).

If the ends of the hair are slightly lightened a few minutes before the end of the process, they must be moistened and the bleaching compound pulled off from the roots (comb with rare teeth). It should be borne in mind that if the hair is very porous, it will lighten even when the composition is washed off. Upon reaching the desired result, the hair is thoroughly rinsed with warm water, washed with shampoo, balm.

It is used to partially wash out artificial pigments and lightly lighten hair.

Example: if during coloring the tone turns out to be somewhat darker than expected, it can be slightly lightened, for this it is necessary to prepare a mixture; 1 scoop of blondoran (40g) 60 ml of water 30 ml of oxalite. 15 ml shampoo

The mixture is foamed in a bowl and applied over the sink to the hair or to the places that should be lightened, it works very effectively immediately after the coloring process, upon reaching the desired result, the hair is washed with shampoo and balm.

The dye exposure time must be strictly observed. If the exposure time is insufficient, the staining process will remain incomplete and a new color will not have time to form.

Accelerating the coloring process through the use of additional heat can distort the color, as the clarification will take place faster and the coloring matter will not fall on its clarification background.

holding time light color toning (15 min)

Normal color, tone on tone or one tone lighter or darker (30-35min)

Lightening (35 min)

Highly brightening (50 min)

When coloring a tone on tone or a tone darker, the paint is applied along the entire length, when coloring a half tone lighter, first the length of the hair is 2-3 cm away from the roots. And immediately after that, apply to the roots after 35 minutes emulsification and thoroughly rinse the paint with water, then rinse once with shampoo and neutralize with balm.

The paint is applied only to the regrown part of the hair, when the color evens out, the paint should be emulsified along the entire length for 5 minutes, refreshing the color of previously dyed hair. (20min) + (15min) gray hair.!

Because the ends are more porous, this will be enough for them, if the ends of the hair have faded significantly and require re-coloring, the difference in structure must be taken into account. Moisturize the hair brushes well, water will fill the most porous areas in the hair and will not allow the coloring bodies to concentrate in these places, the hair structure will become more uniform and the color will be more uniform.

Step-by-step application when dyeing short hair:

2. Apply ESSEX dye along the entire length of the hair.

Step by step application when coloring long hair hair:

1. Mix the dye with oxygen 1:1 (dilute two mixtures: No. 1 with the necessary
oxygen - for hair roots and No. 2, with oxygen increased by one level
volume, for the rest of the hair).

2. Apply mixture No. 1 to the hair roots.

3. Apply mixture No. 2 to the rest of the hair and ends, stepping back from the roots 1-2 cm.

4. Holding time: t "= 35 min.

Re-staining (secondary staining)

Step-by-step application when coloring hair with color support:

1. Mix dye with oxygen 1:1.

2. Apply the ESSEX dye to the hair roots.

3. Holding time: t "= 30 min.

4. Perform the dye emulsification procedure along the entire length of the hair.

5. Holding time: t "= 5 min.

Step-by-step application when saturating the shade of the hair:

1. Mix the dye with the necessary oxygen (1: 1) for the roots (No. 1) and with active
vator (1:2) 1.5% for the ends and the rest of the hair (No. 2).

2. Apply mixture No. 1 to the hair roots, then apply mixture No. 2 to the rest
part of the hair.

3. Holding time: t "= 35 min.

Toning

The method is used on pre-bleached or lightened hair to give a color tone without a visible change in the level of tone depth. In this case, oxidizers with the lowest percentage of hydrogen peroxide (3 %) or activator 1.5%. According to this method, the dye is applied immediately along the entire length of the hair, that is, from the roots to the ends, after which the necessary time is maintained for exposure.

Step by step application:

1. Thoroughly rinse the bleaching powder with water, wash your hair with shampoo
for deep cleaning Deep Cleaning Shampoo, then treat with balm
for colored hair Color Saver Balsam.

2. Dry your hair with a towel.

3. Apply ESSEX stain mixed with activator 1.5% or 1.5% % Pastel's
proportions 1:2, along the entire length of the hair.

4. Holding time: t "= 20 min.

COLOR CONCEPT?rofessionol

1.2. Oxygens ESSEX

Peculiarities

The soft consistency contributes to ideal mixing with the dye. Contains caring ingredients.

Composition

Stabilized hydrogen peroxide, emulsifiers, care ingredients, thickeners, cosmetic preservatives, pH adjuster, distilled water solvent, moisturizing ingredients, emollients. Oxygens are hydrogen peroxide, but, unlike pure Hp^ diluted with water to a certain concentration, oxidizers contain stabilizers and care components.

Package

Add-ons

It is important to close oxygenators tightly after each use.

Important

Colorist's rule: do not mix oxygen with water.

To obtain 6% oxygen, it is necessary to mix 3% and 9% oxygen in equal proportions, and to obtain 9% oxygen - 6% and 12% in equal proportions.

If 6% and 9% oxygen are not available, but it is necessary to obtain them, in this case it is necessary to mix 3% oxygen and 12% oxygen in proportions of 2:1 (6%) and 1:2 (9%).

Functions of ESSEX Oxygens

3%/10VOL Used for tone on tone, 1 level up (when used on the root zone)

1-1.5 cm), or 1 level lower. 6%/20VOL Used for coloring gray hair. It is also used when staining 1 level higher in

length and 2 levels in the basal part. 9%/30VOL Used for coloring gray hair. It is also used when staining 2 levels higher in

length and 3 levels in the basal part. 12%/40VOL Used when dyeing 4 levels higher.

Profesiona COLOR CONCEPT

ESSEX Activator 1.5%

General characteristics

It is used with Estel ESSEX cream paints for intensive toning.

Composition

Stabilized hydrogen peroxide, cosmetic preservatives, care ingredients, pH regulator, distilled water-solvent.

Peculiarities

Economical to use. Forms an easy-to-apply creamy texture that is gentle on the hair.

Package

The convenient flip-top bottle contains a protective membrane.

Add-ons

ESSEX Activator 1.5% can be used with the base palette for long-lasting color to achieve denser shades by varying the mixing ratio.

Profesiiona COLOR CONCEPT

ESSEX hair color cream is a color cream for permanent coloring and intensive toning. The presence of a unique molecular system "K&Es", providing excellent durability and color intensity due to the maximum depth of penetration. Optimal care during coloring with the Vivant System "VS". The keratin complex included in the system restores the structure and elasticity of the hair, extracts from guarana seeds and green tea moisturize and nourish them along the entire length. Hair acquires shine, well-groomed appearance and volume.

Manufacturer's recommendations for maximum color results.
Training.
Prepare the mixture for staining, taking into account the recommended proportions of paint and oxidant.
The mixture is prepared in a shaker or bowl.
Mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
Application and rinsing.
Thoroughly mix the dye and the desired oxide.
Don't forget to wear gloves when doing this.
Apply the mixture with a hair coloring brush to UNWASHED hair, especially at the roots.
Leave the dye on your hair for the time recommended by the manufacturer.
Do not use metal objects (combs, clips...)
During exposure, the color of the mixture on the hair will change.
Such a change in color is considered normal and does not affect the final result of staining.
After the exposure time has elapsed, carefully emulsify the composition - that is, distribute along the length with a comb, after moisturizing the hair.
Rinse until the water runs clear.
Use the professional Curex Color Save products for color-treated hair to protect, strengthen and help preserve the richness and vibrancy of color-treated hair.
Before you start dyeing, you need to accurately determine the original color of your hair and the color that you want to get as a result of dyeing. To do this, contact the consultants of our online store FORMULA HAIR.

When coloring hair, use, as well as, which you can purchase in our online store "HAIR FORMULA".

To protect hair during dyeing and bleaching, use HEC (Chromoenergetic Complex). It is necessary to add HEC ampoules to the coloring / bleaching mixture immediately before application.

PERMANENT COLORING:

Mixing ratio 1:1

Holding time: 35-45 minutes.

Oxygen choice:

coloring along the length tone on tone, or a tone darker - 3%

Lightening by 1 tone: roots 3%, length 6%

Lightening by 2-3 tones: roots 6%, length 9%

Lightening by 3-4 tones: roots 9%, length 12%

TONING:

Mixing ratio 1:2

Use 9 - 10 row

Holding time: 10-20 minutes

LIGHTENING COLORING:

Mixing ratio ESSEX S-OS Blondes 1:2

Holding time: up to 50 minutes

Primary coloring with lightening by 2-4 tones:

Departing from the roots of the hair 2 cm, apply the mixture along the entire length.

Holding time: 20-25 minutes

Then apply the mixture to the remaining 2 cm (at the root), hold for 10 minutes.

At the end of the exposure time, the cream-paint should be thoroughly washed off.

Wash your hair with shampoo for colored hair.

Treat hair with balm for colored hair.

Secondary coloring:

Apply the mixture on regrown hair roots for 30 minutes.

Lightly moisten the hair with water and evenly distribute the paint over the entire length (emulsify).

Additional exposure time 5-10 minutes.

Coloring GRAY hair(up to 100% gray coverage):

1) A special natural series for gray hair (/00) is used independently.

When choosing warm shades, a golden color range is used (- / 3)

When choosing cold shades, the natural color range is used as a natural nuance - (/ 0)

Mixing ratio:

gray hair 15%-40% - 2:1 (2 parts color nuance + 1 part natural nuance)

gray hair 40%-60% - 1:1 (1 part color nuance + 1 part natural nuance)

gray hair 60% -100% - 1: 2 (1 part color nuance + 2 parts natural nuance).