Skirt modeling. Modeling a skirt with reliefs
The main idea: a straight skirt with several reliefs.
Sufficiently tight-fitting elegant skirt can decorate any figure. For successful modeling, it is enough for you to have a good base built with increments that are comfortable for you, 0-2 cm to the OT and OB girths.
The skirt can be made on a stitched belt or fitted on a facing at the request of the client. The waist line can also be any, in a natural place or understated.
Since the model is not symmetrical with respect to the middle line of the front and rear parts, the modeling must be performed on the parts "turn around".
For our modeling, we conditionally divided the width of the front panel into three parts. Thus, two reliefs and an undercut detail were identified. If your client's hip circumference is more than 100 cm, then you can increase the number of reliefs. Visually vertical reliefs will make the figure slimmer. This is facilitated and sweet on the undercut detail.
You can also vary the number of folds and their depth at your discretion.
In our model, reliefs are made both on the front and on the back of the skirt. You can simplify the model by leaving the back part as it is in the base.
Such models well hide the asymmetry of the hips.
The undercut detail can be made without folds. The asymmetry of the lower cut is also a matter of your personal taste. The model can be made with a horizontal bottom line.
One rear tuck can be left. Especially if you are working with a hard fabric and, according to your calculations, the RZ takes on values of more than 5 cm.
But, if you have other conditions: softer fabric, less RZ, then you can move the relief closer to the top of the back tuck and transfer the entire tuck solution into a relief.
When choosing fabrics for your models, always remember the purpose of each particular skirt. Almost any model can be turned from a strict office skirt into an elegant or creative skirt, just by changing the fabric or even just changing the direction of the shared thread.
The traditional variant of the share thread is shown in your drawing. Position the middle piece at a 45-degree cut on a plaid fabric for an unexpectedly interesting option. The original skirt model will simply not be recognizable.
You do not even have to make such a sharp contrast of pattern and color. Now in stores there is a large selection of fabrics that differ slightly in shade. In the fabric, the difference in color is not as visible as in the product.
Feel like a real product designer, not an artisan who works only according to a strict description and recipe. And as a real designer, be prepared not only for success, but also for ... failure.
From the book by G. Zlachevskaya "The Best Models"
The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one version of the pattern. If you like to dance, then patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew an outfit for performances yourself. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to fulfill any fashion fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: patterns of straight skirts, patterns of skirts "Gode", patterns of skirts "Sun", patterns of straight skirts with a cape, patterns of wrap skirts, patterns of skirts with a frill frill, patterns of skirts with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Taking measurements
In mass sewing production, to build drawings of patterns, ready-made tables are used, in which measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures are entered. For individual tailoring, the use of such tables is impractical, since more accurate and detailed data are required: Another system is used here - the calculation and measurement system, which is based on measuring the distances between certain points of the human body. These distances are called measurements.
To take measurements, you must have a centimeter tape, a pencil and a note book. In this case, certain requirements must be observed: the person from whom measurements are taken must stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms lowered along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the socks turned slightly outward (with the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); when measuring measurements, the centimeter tape must not be tightened or, conversely, loosened; in order to eliminate the distortion of readings, it is advisable to take measurements on linen.
Remember! The accuracy of the pattern drawing and, therefore, the appearance of the product you have sewn depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you have taken.
However, that's not all.
to build a drawing of a skirt, you need to consider what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standard folded figure (smoothly wavy back, the location of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch at the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal hip width), then the following measurements are needed to build a skirt drawing
Straight two-seam skirt
Despite the variety of this or that skirt, a straight two-seam skirt is the basis for building many models. This skirt exists perfectly as an independent product and as an integral part of many costumes. After all, it is not for nothing that she is one of the classic models and therefore has rightfully been at the peak of fashion for several decades now. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate both for special occasions and for everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from fabrics in a cage, since fitting such a pattern is a significant difficulty. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to observe the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without expansion along the bottom will look a little narrower. Therefore, it is not recommended to wear it to women with low hips.
CONSTRUCTION OF A DESIGN DRAWING OF A STRAIGHT TWO-SEAM SKIRT
To build a drawing (Fig. 14), the following measurements of the figure are required: semi-waist circumference (St), floor at hip circumference (C6) and product length (Dsh) hips (P6). For all sizes they are equal:
Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, Pb = 1.5-2.0 cm.
In the future, the necessary measurements and increments will be called "initial data".
For the convenience of construction and calculations, we take measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Se = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.
We build a right angle with the vertex at point T. The segment TN corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the line of the hips and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. Through the obtained points B and H, we draw lines perpendicular to the straight line TN. From point B along the line of the hips, we set aside a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the hips (C6) plus an increase in the free fit on the hips (Pb), and set point B1
BB 1 \u003d C6 + Pb \u003d 52 + 2 \u003d 54 cm.
Draw a vertical line through point B 1 until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This straight line is the middle of the back panel. From point B to the right along the line of the hips, set aside BB2
BB 2 = BB1 / 2 - 1 = TT2 = HH2
Draw a vertical line through point B 2 until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.
I think you will be interested:
After all the constructions, we cut the front panel along the relief line (dashed line).
To build a pattern of a straight skirt with slots, one should not forget about the allowances for the slots. These are rectangles 6-7 cm wide and 20-25 cm high with a skirt length of 50-60 cm. We add them to the relief lines of both parts of the front panel (Fig. 4).
Layout on the fabric of a pattern of a classic skirt with reliefs
The layout of a skirt pattern with reliefs on the fabric, and hence the fabric consumption, depends mainly on the width of the fabric, and, of course, on the size of the pattern itself.
Consider two options that differ in the size of the pattern. The width of the fabric in both cases is 140 cm, the length of the skirt is 58 cm, the fabric consumption is 75 cm.
1 option- for hips of 100 cm or less. Fig.4.
Option 2- for the volume of the hips 100 - 110 cm - fig.5.
With an increase in the volume of the hips, the width of the fabric may not be enough, so we do the layout in an economical way, with a turn of the central front part.
In option 2, the parts are laid out in different directions, so you need to use fabrics without a directional pattern and pile.
With a fabric width of 150 cm, the same layout will work for a hip volume of up to 120 cm.
Tailoring of a straight skirt with reliefs
We begin work with relief seams.
In order to qualitatively sew a straight skirt with slots, it is important to properly process the slots. Here you will find a photo with explanations:.
When the front panel is assembled together, then - the usual sequence for sewing a straight skirt:
- we grind tucks, side and back middle (if any) seams;
- we sew a zipper;
- we process the top of the skirt with a belt;
- sewing the bottom of the skirt:
This skirt can be made without slits in front. You can replace them with one cut in the left relief seam - then the allowances for the slots are not needed.
The back panel can also be made with reliefs. The construction of the relief line at the back is similar to the construction at the front.
One more moment. In the photo above, the reliefs are located far from each other. This is because the size 48 mannequin is wearing a larger skirt. Therefore, the distance between the reliefs seems disproportionately wide. According to the above calculation method, the reliefs will be in their place for each size.
Publication date: 05/02/2017
Any woman starts to look more slender and leggy in a pencil skirt. This ability to "stretch" the silhouette and flatter the figure has made such a skirt a universal classic and must-have piece of clothing. It goes, with extremely rare exceptions, to the owners of almost any type of physique: and "hourglass", and "pears", and "bananas", and "inverted triangles". But, we note, the slimming effect appears only with the right "pencil".
What is the right pencil skirt - visual perception
"Pencil" is usually called any straight skirt of medium length, which is not entirely fair. In fact, a pencil skirt differs from just a straight one in two essential features, it is:
- quite tight around the hips;
- narrows down noticeably.
It is believed that the correct pencil skirt must be knee-length. This is only partly true - depending on what figure and at what height. In order for a pronounced optical elongation to appear, the length of such a skirt should be at least twice (and preferably 2.5) more than its width. Width is not the girth of the hips, but the horizontal line that you see at the widest part when you look in the front mirror. The length is not the full actual vertical value, but the measurement of only its visible part, and it depends on what kind of “top” the skirt is worn with.
If you wear the "top" tucked in and the waistband of the skirt is open, then the visible length is the same as the actual one. If the “top” is worn out, for example, a pullover 5-15 centimeters long below the waist line, then the visible part of the skirt is shortened and to obtain a “pencil effect” it must be lengthened.
The recommendation to wear such a skirt with shoes with heels or wedges comes from the need to "stretch" the silhouette. Indeed, if you add height to the figure, then visually the hips seem a little narrower relative to the general vertical, which means that the length / width ratio of the skirt approaches the cherished 2-2.5. You just need to remember to slightly lengthen the skirt in accordance with the change in growth. However, with a fairly narrow-thighed figure, there is no need to change the proportions, the “pencil” will look harmoniously with flat shoes.
The right pencil skirt - design features
Modeling of a pencil skirt is made on the basic basis of a straight skirt with minimal allowances for freedom of movement or on the basis of "lining" (no additions at all). The technique for constructing a pattern is unimportant, whether you make a drawing according to Muller, TsNIIShP, Roslyakova, EMKO, Zlachevskaya or any other author's cutting technique, and even from a book on home economics of the 50s - the result will be equally good. It makes no sense to give calculations here, since design techniques that make a pencil skirt from a straight base are applicable to any construction method.
First of all, we decide on the increase in freedom of fitting. They are needed so that it is comfortable to move in a skirt: walk, sit down, bend over. On average, it is 2-6 cm to the circumference of the hips. When sewing from elastic fabric, a smaller value is selected, up to zero (no increase at all). With a girth exceeding 100 cm and a rigid fabric, a larger value.
Do not reduce the recommended gains out of a desire for a tighter silhouette. Plus or minus a couple of centimeters are not visually determined, but they add comfort. In addition, a skirt that is too narrow at the hips will inevitably rise when walking: the stretched fabric tends to slide from the fitted area to where it can lie freely, that is, closer to the waist.
After the base is ready, you should narrow the skirt along the side seams. To do this, starting from the line of the hips - the widest place in the drawing - we draw a new line of the side seam, deviating it to the middle of the front / back. The deviation should not exceed 2.5 cm in the area of the knees on? patterns: in total, the narrowing of the full girth will be 10 cm, it will be difficult to walk in a narrower skirt.
To more clearly outline the buttocks, it is permissible to introduce a subgluteal tuck. This is the same narrowing as described, but along the line of the middle of the back. It should start a couple of centimeters below the most protruding point of the buttocks - measure this distance on the figure. Just be sure to take into account this additional tuck in the overall narrowing, remember: no more than 10 cm at the level of the knees.
Another constructive element that effectively slims the silhouette is vertical lines - embossed seams, through fasteners. Just draw a straight line from the top of the tuck to the bottom and cut the pattern along it.
A peplum from the waist line or a detachable yoke of a skirt focuses on the narrowest part of the figure, which also visually adds harmony. Draw a horizontal line through the tops of all darts, cut the pattern along it and close the darts - you will get separate parts for the yoke and the bottom of the pencil skirt.
Waist 66cm, hips 90cm.
There is a classic, you can not argue with it. We will not argue, we use it for our own selfish purposes. Pencil skirt! We take the standard, draw reliefs, add edging, lace, tucks, or use layering, such as guipure and chiffon, and we already get something very similar to a romantic style. And the fantasy has no end! And we are so beautiful, different and happy!
Today we offer you finished pattern.
If you want build your own pattern skirts for a specific figure, you can use our step by step instructions.
Modeling a pencil skirt described in several ways previously.
If you are the owner of a standard figure, then this READY pattern is for you!
IS FREEREADY PATTERN pencil skirt with two reliefs on the front panel. On the back panel there is a middle seam into which a zipper is sewn. In the same seam at the bottom of the skirt, there can be a slit, slot, pleat or frill. We deliberately do not mark any marks on the pattern of the back panel and do not give any allowances, leaving the choice to you. Allow for processing according to your decision.
Pattern sizes:
waist circumference 62cm,
hip circumference 86cm,
skirt length 68cm.
The pattern is given WITHOUT seam allowances!
Preparing a pattern for work is extremely simple.
Click on the diagram at the end of the article and skirt pattern will open in a new window.
Print the pattern sheets on the printer, connect them according to the diagram and cut them out.
Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.
Compare the sizes of the patterns with your measurements. Make changes if necessary.
After that, start cutting. Do not forget give seam allowances and additional allowances in those places where clarifications are possible during fitting.
Having swept away the details, try on the skirt, make any necessary adjustments and start sewing.
You can change the finished pattern if you wish, in accordance with your preferences. For example, change the configuration of reliefs, add pockets, flaps, belts, buckles or other decorative elements. You can also adjust the length and width of the skirt at the bottom.
The upper section of the skirt can be processed in various ways, for example, facing, inlay, belt of various heights, etc.
I draw your attention to the following: if you are sewing a skirt from elastic fabric, then it is desirable to process the upper cut with elastic material. For example, sew an elastic band or lace with a scalloped edge, if this does not contradict the style, or process it with a piping (belt) from the same fabric as the skirt itself.
In the following articles, we will continue this tenacious topic and try not to ignore women of different builds.
If you have difficulty printing patterns, write and we will post a master class with the details of this process.
