How to make a felting toy. Felting from wool: a master class for creating toys for beginners

Felting (felting, felting) wool is a popular and interesting way to create toys and accessories. Many craftswomen want to learn how to make such crafts. Knowing the basic rules and features, it will be easy to master this technique. Felting involves three methods: dry felting, wet felting and nano felting.

Before starting work, it is worthwhile to prepare in advance the tools and materials that will be needed for creativity. You can buy everything you need individually or as a set.

They include only basic tools, but sometimes a rowing tape, for the manufacture of a particular product.

For dry felting you will need:

• A set of specialized felting needles.
  They begin to work with a long and thick needle, then move on to medium ones and take thin and short needles for the final finish. Universal is a star-shaped needle No. 38.
• Natural wool.
• Foam rubber sponge 2-4 cm thick.
• Stencil paper, pencil.
• Tailor's pins, transparent glue.
• Beads, buttons, plastic eyes.

Important! It is advisable to purchase an additional set of needles, since due to inexperience they are easy to break, for beginners patience and experience will be needed.

Types of wool

For dry felting, natural sheep wool or alpaca and camel wool are used. There are five types:

1. rowing tape- the fibers are arranged in one direction, suitable for making toys and brooches.
2. Card wool- soft with mixed fibers, used for all types of felting.
3. fine wool- used for decorative elements.
4. Sliver- rough and unbleached material. Suitable for the base of the product.
5. Tow- small fibers left after scratching. Used for stuffing toys.

Dry felting toys for beginners

When dry felting fibers confuse with needles with serifs of different shapes (photo). A suitable material is carded wool.

Having prepared everything you need to dump the toy, then get to work:

• We draw a diagram of the product on paper and lay it out into small details.
• Then we take a piece of material, considering that during the felling it will decrease by about three times, roll it up with our hands and give it the desired shape.
• We put a lump on a sponge and pierce it with a long, thick needle, dump it to a dense, elastic state. For uniform stalling, we gradually turn the product and work from all sides with the same intensity.

• As the part is compacted, we change the thick one to a needle of medium thickness. If, when pressed, the product does not deform and easily returns to its original shape, then it is ready.
• To create a relief, you need to insert the needle many times in the same place. We grind the surface with a thin needle.

Important! The more tangled the fibers are, the easier they will fall off, so if the choice fell on a rowing tape, you should first mix up the strands.

The process of working with felting needles

For felting, needles of different thicknesses are used, they are found on sale from No. 19 to No. 42. They begin work with a thick and long needle, it is inserted and withdrawn into the part at an angle of 90 degrees. The needle inside cannot be moved or twisted, as it is quite fragile. The sharp edge is equipped with serrations, penetrating into the part, they capture the fibers due to this, and stalling occurs.

At the initial stage, the needle enters deep into the craft so that there are no voids inside. As the part is compacted, it is replaced with a thinner one. During operation, the product is placed on a special substrate made of a material that cannot be felted.

Important! When working with felting needles, you need to be careful and not be distracted, as you can seriously injure your hand.

Rules for joining parts

Large parts are usually rolled in one piece. And small parts, for example, ears, tail or paws, are made separately. When felting small things, loose fibers are left on the edge. Further, they are pinned with a pin to the place of attachment, and tucked into the middle of the base.

When the parts are firmly in place, small patches of wool cover and seal the seams. Grind the surface with a thin needle.

How to fluff the product?

Fluff the craft in two ways:

1. Reverse needle - inserting into the product and pulling the fibers out. It is worth sticking the needle as often as possible so that there are no bald patches. To give an aesthetic appearance, the hair is combed and trimmed.
2. Rolling bundles of wool to the craft. The middle of a thin strand is applied down to the toys, and tucked in with a felting needle. When the row is finished, start the next 0.7 cm higher.

We fluff the product with a reverse needle

How to mix colors?

If the toy is multi-colored, you should not immediately add all the shades, this interferes with polishing and looks ugly. To add a stripe or a speck, you should roll the wool in small pieces of a different color to the finished work.

Rules for felting toys on a frame

Felted toys are dense, and a frame is required only in cases where it has thin limbs or for moving parts. When creating products on a frame, chenille wire is used. It is cut into pieces of the desired length, and given the desired shape. The twisted wire base is wrapped with wool fibers, secured with a thick felting needle.

The finished frame is attached to the head or torso (depending on the idea), lapping with pieces of wool. Then the surface is polished, and decorative elements are added.

Choosing this art as a hobby, you should understand that it requires care and patience. We roll carefully, slowly, this is a rather long and painstaking process, but the result is worth it.

Do DIY toys- this is an extremely exciting activity. One has only to try once to make some kind of doll or animal, and you already understand that this toy is by no means the last one. I bring to your attention dry felting master class Bunnies named Victoria.

Materials and tools for felting.

• Felting wool (Australian merino): gray, white, pink and red. The colors suggested here are by no means dogma. You can use any you like.
• Trinity wool.
• Felting needles: No. 38 (for forming parts of the toy), No. 40 (for smoothing the surface), reverse needle in order to make the toy fluffy.
• Sponge for felting.
• A small button (we will use it to fasten the head).
• Needle for sewing soft toys. It can be purchased at craft stores.
• Scissors.
• Threads for attaching legs and head.

We will first dump all the details of the toy from Trinity wool. It's cheaper than the one we'll be using to roll the surface. Take a bunch of medium-sized wool for felting the head of the toy. In the photographs, I tried to capture not only the materials, but also the hands, so that you have an idea of ​​the size of the wool tufts and details.

Using a needle number 38, give the head the desired shape.

Using a #40 needle, smooth the surface of the toy's head. On the front side, make the head flat, as shown in the figure:

Take a small bundle of wool. The photo shows what the beam should be relative to the head.

We roll this bundle of wool to the muzzle of the toy, we form cheeks.

The finished muzzle looks like this:

Now take a small amount of gray wool and roll the surface of the head, thus turning it into gray. Roll the cheeks with white wool.

Now let's take a look at the body. Take a bunch of Trinity wool, give it a cone shape with your hands.

On the sponge, using a No. 38 needle, we begin to form the body of the toy. As soon as the tuft of wool begins to take the necessary shape, change the needle to #40. I noticed that when you felt with a thick needle, a void forms inside the mold, a bag is obtained. When working with a thin needle, this does not happen and the work looks much neater.

Repeatedly poking in the same place, we form recesses for the paws and head of the toy.

When the shape of the body is ready, roll it with gray wool.

Now back to the muzzle. Take a small bunch of pink wool and roll a small ball out of it on a sponge. This is the future nose of the bunny.

Roll this ball to the muzzle of the toy:

Now that we have the head and torso ready, we will make the articulated mount. Now in needlework stores you can buy real hinges, like those used in toy factories. But we will use an ordinary button as a hinge. Pull the thread as shown in the photo:

In the head of the toy, at the junction with the body, make a small depression, in other words, poke it many, many times with a felting needle. Place a button in this recess. The thread that is threaded into the button should be long enough.

Take a small bundle of gray wool and use it to roll the button, thus securing it on the head. Leave the ends of the thread outside.

Just as you made a recess for a button on the head of a toy, make notches on the torso at the place where the head and paws are attached.

Using a needle, pull each end of the thread through the torso.

After pulling both ends of the thread through the body, pull them and tie a knot, thereby securing the head of the toy.

Using a small bunch of gray wool, mask the ends of the thread.

Now let's take care of the muzzle. Let's make eyes. For this purpose, you can use small black beads. Ready-made eyes can also be purchased at needlework stores. For this bunny, I made the eyes myself. How? Yes, very easy! I'm sure you can do that too. I have a whole briquette of self-hardening clay. It is not plastic enough to sculpt toys or things with small details from it, but you can make small cakes for the eyes from it. Tear off a small piece of clay, make a tablet out of it, let it harden and cover with black nail polish. Everything, eyes are ready!

On the muzzle of the toy, we choose a place for the peephole, make indentations there and glue our eye-pills. Using dark gray wool, we make small, surprisingly raised eyebrows.

Now we move on to felting the ears. To do this, take two identical bundles of gray wool and, after confusing them a little, give them the shape of ears. I recommend taking exactly two bundles at once, and not knitting them in turn, because it is very difficult to judge from a felted product how much wool you need to take in order to felt the same part.

On the sponge we begin to roll the ear. We do not touch the upper edge (the place where the ear is attached to the head).

Carefully, trying not to injure your fingers, we process the edges of the ear.

Here's what happened:

With the reverse needle we will make the ear fluffy. It is more convenient to do it right now, when the ear is not attached to the head.

The edges of the ear can be slightly trimmed with scissors.

By analogy, we make the second ear. It's not scary if the ears don't turn out exactly the same :)

We attach the ears to the head:

Here is the baby:

We turn to felting paws. Take a small bunch of Trinity wool and give it the shape of a paw. To make things go faster, you can roll with several needles at the same time.

We roll the paw with gray wool.

We do the second leg in the same way.

The handles of the toy will also be movable. We will again need a needle and thread. We make a knot on the inside of the foot and pull the thread through the body. Since our toy is miniature, the paws are small, it is enough to get by with just a thread mount, without using a button.

We pierce the second foot through and pull out the needle in the opposite direction.

After we fasten the thread, grooves will remain on the outer sides of the legs - marks from the threads.

They need to be masked with small tufts of gray wool.

Here is what happens at this stage of work:

I looked at our bunny and decided that it was still necessary to make a mouth. She is very sad without him. So, with the help of a thin needle, we outline the mouth on the muzzle.

With the help of pink wool shade the mouth:

It remains quite a bit before the completion of the toy, namely, to dump the legs. We take a bundle of wool, the size of which is shown in the photo:

We give the bundle of wool the shape of a small leg:

The upper part of the leg is slightly dumped.

Roll the leg with gray wool, do not touch the top. Leg from different angles:

Our bunny will be in red sandals. For their felting, we need a small amount of red wool. We begin to roll the wool to the sole.

Then carefully form the shoe. At this stage, the red wool does not need to be tangled before felting.

The shoe is almost ready.

It remains to make a strap. To do this, we roll a thin strip of red wool, also tangling it, let the fiber remain.

Elizabeth Rumyantseva

For diligence and art there is nothing impossible.

Content

Felting (felting, felting) belongs to the old varieties of needlework. Felted wool products, created by craftswomen from all over the country, sell like hot cakes in stores. Step by step wool felting for beginners allows you to make unique items. Felting is the creation of crafts from wool by clutching and interlacing fibers in several ways. The modern art of felting includes: wet felting, dry felting, nano felting.

Features of felting wool

Before you start step by step wool felting for beginners, you need to find out what you need for this exciting artistic process. The first thing to order is any natural wool. The material is available on the shelves of specialized department stores and in online stores. What raw materials and tools are better to buy?

Crafts are often made from the coarse wool of a sheep or camel. As a basis for the product, it is recommended to buy a sliver - combed sheep's wool without awns. The stuffing, for example, of cat toys or slippers often becomes tow, and merino wool is suitable for decorating items. Felting cannot be done with a needle. Special tools come in different sizes (thin, thick and medium), various sectional shapes (crown, triangular, star). So, we get a set for felting wool for beginners and move on to master classes.

Wool felting workshops with a step-by-step description of the work

This section is for those beginner craftswomen who want to try their hand at felting. We will learn what a dry felting technique is, wet felting and felting with a washing machine. A detailed study of master classes will allow you to make products of absolutely any level of complexity: from small decorative details to clothing items.

Dry felting technique for beginners

For step-by-step felting from wool for beginners in a dry way, you need unspun wool (the best option is carded wool) and special needles with notches. Dry felting is the entanglement of the fibers of the material with each other, as a result of which they are transformed into felt. Felting by this method is carried out using needles with a triangular and star-shaped section. We prepare wool, felting needles, a thick piece of foam rubber and proceed to practice. Further:

1. We put the material on the foam rubber, confuse it with a needle. The base of the craft is sometimes made of synthetic winterizer, covering it with wool on top.
2. When working with needles, you should be very careful, because they are sharp. The needle must be held perpendicular to the craft. The process of creating any thing from felt begins with the use of a thick needle, which gradually changes to a thin one.
3. Flaws in the form of irregularities on the art object are smoothed out using additional raw materials.
4. Dry felting is voluminous souvenirs (badges, key rings), accessories (purse, bag, book bindings), felted wool coats, hats, felt boots and so on.

Wet felting

Wet felting wool on gauze is done using a warm soapy solution (some people replace it with liquid soap). On gauze, according to a pre-selected scheme, the material is laid out in pieces. The mixture is done as follows: grind a couple of pieces of soap on a grater, pour the shavings with two liters of hot water, mix well, wait 2 hours until the solution becomes thick. Next step by step:

1. We spread the oilcloth on the floor or other convenient flat surface. We put gauze on top.
2. Then we lay out the base, the background and the selected pattern on it.
3. The threads are superimposed crosswise, in stripes. We make sure that there are no holes left in the canvas, and the layers of material lie perpendicularly. Their thickness should be the same.
4. When the material is already laid out in accordance with the drawing, it is necessary to sprinkle water on the leg, cover it with a nylon cloth and grease it with soapy water. Remove excess liquid with a paper towel.
5. The next stage is the felting of paintings, panels, toys or jewelry (brooch, beads) from wool. Wet felting of any product consists in manually rubbing the fabric in different directions.

Felting in the washing machine

Felting with a washing machine is one of the easiest and simplest methods for creating things from felted wool. We will need dense forms for deboning, which are wrapped in wool hairs and placed in a nylon golf (or part of ordinary nylon tights without holes, arrows). We proceed directly to the creation of felted crafts:

1. The workpiece must be put in a laundry bag and placed in a washing machine. Pour detergent for washing woolen clothes into a special recess, set the cycle without soaking and drying. For best results, set the temperature to 50 degrees.
2. When the machine finishes the washing process, we take out our finished felted item. If you decide to use a deboning mold, it is best to remove it from the workpiece with scissors.

Where to buy and how much kits and felting wool cost

For every beginner needlewoman who decides to try herself in the art of felting, information on where to purchase all the necessary materials and tools for felting will always come in handy. Below are tables showing points of sale for felting and wool sets in Moscow and St. Petersburg. You will find everything you need for felting in the shops presented in the tables.

Name of shop		Cost of goods, rub.
"Felt"	Moscow, Malomoskovskaya street 10	30 to 800
"Needle"	Moscow, Akademika Yangelya street, building 6 building 1 shopping center "Kalach"; Warsaw highway, house 32; pr. Vernadsky, house 39. St. Petersburg, st. Baikonurskaya, house 14, lit. A TRK "Continent".	150 to 750
"Three Coils"	Moscow, Dmitrovskoe shosse, 157, building 5	100 to 700
	m. Lyublino, st. Krasnodarskaya house 57, building 3	50 to 800

Online shopping

Video tutorials on felting wool products for beginners

With the help of free lessons on felting, everyone will get a chance to learn how to felt unusual, beautiful and useful figurines of objects. Try felting toys out of wool, make flowers or beads as decorations. Learn how to create a bright beret, how wool felting of slippers looks like a master class. Treat yourself to your favorite MK for making an exclusive bag or a warm scarf.

Today we have a guest post - a detailed and large master class Wool toy from felting master Inga! Suitable for those who already have basic knowledge and skills in dry felting.

Moiseeva Inga works wonderfully in the technique of felting, creates fabulous animals and little men from sheep's wool, many of her creations are in the genre of a felt portrait doll.

Member of the St. Petersburg Union of felt masters, participant and winner of many Russian and European exhibitions.
Coordinates In contact with, Shop

Text and photos provided by the author. All photos are clickable.

Be patient, in the coming days we will make a doll, and not a simple one, but a woolen one. Our hero will be the star of Soviet animation, the terrible and terrible Uncle Au.

I want to warn you right away that the success of our enterprise is guaranteed only if you already have three wonderful skills - needle felting, knitting and wet felting. I will not explain in my MK why a grinder is needed, when to change the needle from 36 to 38 and how to close the loops (it is assumed that you already know). If this is a dense forest for you, then I advise you to study MK for beginners, dozens of excellent MK from wonderful craftsmen are available right here and now, at the Masters Fair. And I, with your permission, will begin ...

For a toy with a growth of 18-20 cm, we need the following materials and tools:

- A small amount (15-30g) of wool for felting of different grades and colors:
beige or sand, thin
black thin
rough "boot" of any natural color
salt-pepper, (with a bias in "salt") to imitate gray hair, if you can't find it, use white
brown thin (merino 16-18)
- A small skein of thread for knitting (wool, acrylic) color brick or swamp, faded shades or melange
- Wire “Pipe cleaners”, sold in the tobacco departments of shopping centers at a price of 100 rubles per 100 pieces (there is also a small package) For lack of brushes - hard wire.

- Any plastic with which it is customary to work (fimo, paperclay, phytoclay, etc.) for sculpting an eye
– Acrylic paints for painting, dry pastel or shadows for tinting, plastic varnish
- The usual tools for felting dry and wet (needles, brush, backing, pimple, VSHM, etc.), small knitting needles number 3 or 4, glue Moment-crystal, awl, scissors, needle with a large eye.


Uncle Au has a non-standard figure (short legs and a tiny body with long arms and a big head), so I recommend printing his full-length image from the Internet and constantly monitoring the proportions.


We start making toys from the head. We roll the sand-colored wool quite tightly, getting a ball of the desired size. Schematically outline the location of future eyes, add additional volume in the lower part of the face (cheeks, chin) I immediately apologize for the quality of the pictures - photography and photoshop are not among my "wonderful skills"


We make sure that the back of the head is not too flat, and the forehead is not too small, if necessary, add volume.


Separately, we roll a large plum-shaped nose from the same wool. On its basis, we leave a bunch of untouched wool for attaching to the face. We remove the rest of the part to the final density.


Gently roll the nose to the face, masking the joints with pieces of fluffy wool. We add a little wool to the bridge of the nose, achieving a smooth transition from the forehead to the nose.


Ears are not visible on the printout from the Internet, but this does not mean that they are not there! Our Uncle is an ancient old man, so his ears must be large, dumpling-shaped. From two identical pieces of beige wool we form two symmetrical "dumplings".


We roll them off until cooked, leaving, as in the case of the nose, strands of untouched wool at the junctions.


We roll the ears in their rightful place, masking the connection with pieces of wool.


Let's take care of the eyes. We sculpt flat oval eyes from plastic, checking the shape and size with the printout. Next, we act according to the instructions for your type of plastic - bake or let it harden in air. I use self-hardening clay for realistic floristry, adding Zinc White oil paint to it. This clay needs a day to dry before it can be painted.

I advise you to prepare several pairs of eyes at once and then choose the most successful one. In addition, it will not be so scary to make a mistake when painting, you can even make a trial version.

Having chosen the most successful pair, we press each eye to its future location and with a thick needle we prick the contour of the orbit.


We evenly deepen the eye socket inside the contour.


Uncle has no eyelids, as such, there are only small pretty "bags" under the eyes. We take two identical woolen cakes, each one is slightly rolled in the center and folded in half, getting semicircular details. We round the thick edge of each detail and seal it with a needle.

Who does not understand the process - I show in the following photos in more detail, using the example of one large detail (I repeat, for Uncle Au, two and smaller ones are needed)

We roll the "bags" to the edges of the eye sockets.


Re-align the contours and the bottom of the eye sockets. It was at this moment that the soul of our future pet peeps out for the first time from a simple lump of sheared sheep's wool;)) do not miss the moment - "Uncle Au, nice to meet you!"


We paint the eyes, since this is done elementarily. With brown acrylic we draw an elongated oval of the iris, with black - the pupil (also slightly elongated). Let dry well and cover with plastic varnish.


While the eyes are drying, we make the final bow of the head. We grind the part of the face that will not be covered with a beard and hair.

We glue the eyes with Moment-Crystal glue.

Let's put the head to the side and take care of the legs. From two wire brushes we form a pair of internal leg frames. The length is controlled by our printout. We bend the upper end of the wire by 1.5-2 cm, this part will not be covered with wool, it will be needed to attach the leg to the body.


We wrap the frame with strands of fluffy wool - from the top to the middle of black, from the middle to the toe of coarse felt boots. At the border of two colors, the strands of wool will be tangled - let it be, later we will decorate the transition from black pants to gray felt boots.

If you use a simple wire, then fix the first layer of wool on it with glue. No glue is needed on the brushes.

And once again I remind you - there is no wool on the bent ends of the brush or wire!

We roll the leg to the desired density. Now our felt boots are more like a sock than winter shoes.


We make felt boots. We roll a long and wide strip of coarse wool (length \u003d leg circumference) on a brush, fold it in half lengthwise and roll it again.


If you want the appearance of very thick boots, fold the fold of the strip again.


We wrap the leg with a prepared strip, fasten and roll. We check the density of the heel and foot, if they are "liquid" - add wool. Bringing the final beauty.


We form a pair of hands and a pair of thumbs from beige wool. We roll them to a high density, leaving fluffy ends.


On the hand with a thick needle we pierce the “fingers”. We act on the principle of animation - cartoon characters always have 4 fingers on their hands (why - the answer is easy to find on the Internet :)). The brush is slightly bent, giving it a natural position.


We need one wire brush for both hands. We drip a little glue on its tip to fix it and press it to the “palm”, slightly moving it away from the middle.


We put a “finger” on top of the wire


We wrap the hand with fluffy wool and gently roll it off. We pay special attention to the joints of the finger and hand, the wire should not be visible in any case!


We perform a symmetrical hand on the other end of the brush.


Using a centimeter, we find and mark the middle of the wire with handles.


We wrap the free parts of the wire with wool, leaving about 1.5-2 cm from the center.


I advise you not to fall into unbridled economy, wrapping your hands with sliver or "creative waste". Let them be closed with long sleeves, but still, if someone looks under the sweater and finds there brown-green shoulders or a pale sliver belly - believe me, it will be sad. Of course, in large toys it makes sense to wrap the “stuffing” of waste wool with a top layer of high-quality, but in such a small work as our Uncle, such a “gameskin is not worth the candle”.


We take the next wire brush and twist the frame of the body out of it. We bend the upper end by 1.5 cm and in the future we will use it to fasten the head, with the second end, bent inward, we will fasten the handles.


We take legs. We fasten the ends of the wire free from wool to the frame of the body.


We wrap the lower part of the body frame with black wool. discard, add volume if necessary.


We attach the handles to the body frame, screwing them with the free end of the wire brush.


We wrap it with fluffy beige wool and leave it, leaving part of the wool untouched in the neck area.


With an awl we pierce a hole in the head, at the point of connection with the neck.


We drip a little glue on the "neck" end of the wire and stick it into the pierced hole.


We firmly attach the head to the body, using loose wool around the neck, adding more if necessary.


We change the type of activity, we take up the knitting needles. It is convenient for me to use a set of five knitting needles (for knitting mittens-socks) - I use three, you can take any knitting needles of a suitable number.

We knit a sweater in the “raglan with one cloth from the collar” method. You can knit in any other way, but remember - the large head and hands of the toy will not allow you to just put on / take off clothes, think over in advance the algorithm for assembling your sweater on the doll.

My sweater is knitted in garter stitch (all loops are knitted, the first edge is removed, the last is purl). Adding loops - any way you can, I use this simple

So, on knitting needles No. 3 or 4, we collect 14 loops.

1st row and all odd - facial loops
2nd row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 1 person., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
4th row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 3 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
6th row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 5 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
8th row - chrome, * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 7 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.

Now there are 46 loops on the needles. then the common fabric is divided into 4 parts and each is knitted separately, in turn.

Back - on the first 13 loops from the common fabric we knit 10 rows of garter stitch, while in the 4th and 8th rows we symmetrically add 1 loop at the beginning and end of the row. In the last row, cast off all 17 sts at the same time.

Right sleeve - on the next 10 loops we knit 16 rows, while in the 6th and 12th rows we symmetrically add 1 loop at the beginning and end of the row. On the last row, cast off all 14 sts at the same time.

Before - knit like a back

The left sleeve is knitted like the right one.

We cut the thread left after closing the loops, but do not fasten it tightly - you may have to knit or dissolve a couple of rows after trying on, since the density of knitting is an individual matter 😉

We steam the finished fabric.

We put our “Maltese cross” on the toy and first sew the seam along the raglan line at the back.


Uncle Au's sweater looks quite old and worn, so don't hide the seam too much, on the contrary, I advise you to bring all the knots out and even add two or three "decorative" ones to emphasize his grunge style 😉


Back to wool. On the “bald head” of Uncle, we mentally draw three lines from ear to ear - these are our lines of “hair growth”


Carefully separate thin strands from the salt-pepper combed ribbon (as in wet felting) and make a “layout” with a width equal to the length of the first dotted line.


Across the layout, in the middle, we place a small, slightly twisted strand.


We carefully transfer the entire layout to the head so that the transverse strand coincides with the first imaginary line. We attach this strand to the head, while fixing the hair.


We put the hair together. He's already cute ;)


Similarly, we increase the hair along the two remaining lines.


The same principle applies to facial hair.


Mustache:


Beard:


Uncle Au has such a thick mustache that only the lower lip appears to the viewer. We roll it from a small piece of beige wool and roll it under the mustache.


You can add a small short strand of gray hair just above the lip if the face appears "bald".


If any strand of hair is too long, in no case cut it with scissors! Pinch or tuck with your fingers. Uncle Au is not a Yorkie, a neat haircut is not his forte!!

But the old man will have to get acquainted with cosmetics. We tint with a hard brush with grated pastels of brown shades (or you can use dry eye shadow, it will be no worse). Referring to the picture from the Internet, we shade the nose, the upper eyelid area, ears, lip, temples and fingers. Don't be afraid to overdo it with tinting - in some episodes of the cartoon our uncle is so grimy that we can't keep up with him with our pastels.

If you decide to do felting, but have never experienced it, then you should not take on complex toys or paintings. You should start with small jewelry, such as a flower brooch and beads. With the help of step-by-step instructions and diagrams, any beginner can handle this.

Schemes for beginners

Small cute brooch

In order to make a brooch in the form of a lily of the valley you will need the following tools:

The first step is to make a frame. for the future leaves of our flower. To create them, you need wire and green wool. Put it on the brush under the frame. This strand must be carefully pierced with needles. Keep in mind one important point: a strand of wool should be larger than the frame.

During operation, the strand turns over, all the actions from the previous paragraph are repeated.

We wrap the ends of our future sheet - we have a blank! We put the frame on it again. We process the edges of the leaves with thin needles. The main thing in this process is to give the product naturalness and naturalness. This can be done with green wool.

Apply a small amount of glue to the ends of the leaves. Apply green wool again on top of the glue . Roll carefully like this to make a stem.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of branches. To do this, you need white wool. We make pancakes from wool. We put a bead in the resulting pancake, it can be of any color. We decorate the bead with wool. Special needles for felting come to our aid.

We lower the resulting workpiece into a soapy solution, and then roll it out in our hands. If some threads of wool are knocked out, then remove them with ordinary clerical scissors.

Cut off the top of the workpiece and make 8 cuts. We are starting to form a lily of the valley flower. The resulting buds are lowered into acrylic varnish. Carefully wring out the workpiece and send to dry. We also make unopened flowers - these are white-green balls.

Now let's start forming the brooch. To begin with, we string flowers and buds on a wire. We make several such branches. We fasten them with glue and green wool. We complement the accessory with leaves and a clasp. You can add a green ribbon.

Felted beads in stages

The next decoration is beads. For manufacturing you need:

Manufacturing process step by step:

In conclusion, ready-made loops with beads strung on a chain or waxed cord.

Wet felting wool

Thanks to such techniques as wet felting wool, you can make magnificent scarves, bags, slippers and other accessories. This technique has one feature: pieces of wool must be placed in a special soapy solution. Let's look at the main features of this technique.

The first step is to prepare a soap solution. To do this, you need a bar of soap and boiling water (about 2 liters). We rub the soap on a grater and send it to hot water. It is necessary to mix the solution thoroughly so that the soap is completely dissolved, and let it brew. If there is no bar soap, then replace it with liquid soap.

An important rule: the solution must be infused until it thickens. It usually doesn't take more2 hours.

As soon as the soap solution reaches the consistency we need, we can start needlework. To do this, the working surface must be covered with a special bubble wrap - it prevents the fibers from sticking together, it can be used more than once. Lay the film with the bubble part up.

To begin with, lay out the base layer on the film, then the background layer, only then with a pattern or print. Be careful, each layer should be thin, they must be overlapped and perpendicular, this will help to avoid gaps. All layers must be of the same thickness.

Next, we process the workpiece with ordinary running water, this must be done very carefully, so an ordinary spray gun will come to the rescue. We cover the future product with a nylon cloth and carry out the wetting procedure in a soapy solution. When the workpiece is well saturated with water, we finish by rubbing the canvas by hand.

Dry way

Dry felting wool for beginners is much less expensive than wet felting. Using this technique, you can create unusual and original decor elements, toys, accessories and other interesting things.

They take a piece of wool, put it on a sponge and form the intended shape with the help of special needles. In this case, one should not forget about the shrinkage of dry raw materials.

Important: be extremely careful! Punching can break the tool or injure your hands.

Start with thicker needles. And when the product becomes denser, replace them with thin ones. In the process of felting, the needles are held at a right angle, and the material is placed not on weight, but directly on the surface of the sponge.

Making toys and figurines

Animal figurines, such as sheep made of wool, look especially cute. Making this using the dry felting technique for beginners is very simple:

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