How to freshen up old fur of a zigey. We clean the astrakhan fur coat with folk remedies

Mouton is a sheepskin that has undergone a special treatment and refinement using formalin and dyeing in an attractive color that can vary from light to dark tones. The advantages of a mouton (karakul, zigeykovy) fur coat (sheepskin coat) are obvious and boil down to its moisture resistance, pronounced heat-saving properties and a long wear life (up to 10 years) with proper operation.

Proper operation includes actions related to storage and its timely cleaning. Mouton (tsigeika, astrakhan) should not be dried in heat, kept under direct sunlight, stored with naphthalene, sprayed with various alcohol-containing perfumes. In order for the fur to play, frost and storage in a cool place in a case of the same tone as the fur coat are useful for the muton. Cleaning a fur coat of any shade (white, black) muton (astrakhan, zigeykovy) fur coats should be carried out once a year, and you can resort to cleaning, both at home and in dry cleaning, but specializing in cleaning fur products and including cleaning , fatliquoring, ironing, antistatic treatment, giving shine and lightness.

In order to clean the fur at home, it is necessary to carry out a number of simple manipulations, which require a hard, fine metal brush for combing the fur, gasoline, vodka, vinegar, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, insoluble substances (nut crumbs, starch, potato flour), a vacuum cleaner .

Rules for cleaning a mouton coat

You can clean a mouton (karakul, zigeykuvy) fur coat at home in the following ways:

• Grease stains, sweat stains can be cleaned with a solution ammonia or a solution consisting of equal proportions of vodka and water with a drop of vinegar or a mixture: 1 teaspoon of ammonia, 3 tablespoons of table salt and 0.5 liters of water.
• Heavily oiled fur is treated with hot wheat or rye bran, scattering it over the fur and rubbing it with the palm of your hand, followed by shaking and combing the fur.
• Wipe contaminated areas with a cloth soaked in gasoline.
• Treat yellowed areas with hydrogen peroxide or bleaching dog shampoo diluted with water. With this solution, the contaminated areas are treated with a gauze cloth.
• You can also clean a fur coat of a light, white tone with the help of a Vanish cleaning agent, using the technology of cleaning a carpet product with the collection of Vanish foam with a vacuum cleaner.
• After applying the cleaning from severe pollution, the fur of a mouton, astrakhan, zigey coat is sprinkled with insoluble substances, depending on the color scheme of the fur coat (nut crumb, starch, potato crumb).
• The fur is shaken, the remnants of "cleansing agents" are removed by means of a vacuum cleaner.
• Fur

How to clean fur at home? How to clean a fur coat?

In the spring, we change our favorite fur coat for lighter clothes, and put furs, wool, suede and leather in the closet until the next cold season. In this chapter, I will tell you how to protect warm clothes from moths and other troubles, as well as how to tidy up your demi-season clothes.

Let's start with the rules for caring for natural fur.

Before putting away a fur coat for long-term storage, carefully inspect it in good light. I don’t mention such trifles as checking pockets (although a forgotten caramel can attract the attention of ants to a fur coat, and seeds - God forbid, of course, mice), you must make sure that the product is dry, clean and has no matted areas .

If, contrary to hope, the fur does not look as good as you would like, put it in order without delay. Felting of the fur cover (namely, this is what experts call the formation of tangled sections of pile) occurs, as a rule, on a long pile - fur of arctic fox, fox or nutria. More than others, the bottom of the sleeves, hem, and armpits are subject to felting.

In order to get rid of unattractive tangles, a flat comb with long and sparse teeth and a lot of patience are enough. Spread the area to be treated on your knees and start combing in the direction of hair growth, first along the surface, and then dipping the comb into deeper and deeper layers of fur. If you decide to comb the pile at once to the full depth, you can tear the skin or tear out a piece of fur.

After 2-3 seasons of wear, the fur needs a thorough cleaning. This can be done qualitatively in any dry cleaners. There, they will not only remove dirt from the surface of the pile, but, if necessary, they will also paint over faded areas, treat the fur with softening compounds that give it shine.

But if the pollution is insignificant, they can be eliminated at home. For expensive fur coats (from mink, arctic fox or silver fox), the following composition is suitable: for 50 ml of warm water, take 2 drops of ammonia and 1 drop of mild detergent (better - dishwashing liquid with balm). More democratic fur (sheepskin, tsigeyka, astrakhan fur, raccoon, and so on) reacts quite positively to cleaning with ordinary hair shampoo (it should be diluted in warm water in proportions of 1:20). Then you need to take a cotton swab, moisten it in the solution and wipe the fur several times in the direction of hair growth; replace the contaminated swab with a clean one and repeat the action in the next area. When cleaning, try not to wet the fur to the full depth of the pile.

After treatment with soapy water, take a clean cloth and run it several times over the wet pile from top to bottom - excess moisture will be absorbed, the fur will shine. To add shine, you can also use a swab dipped in a 5% solution of acetic acid. A light yellowness from a white or light fur coat will be removed by 3-5% hydrogen peroxide. Only after peroxide treatment, be sure to wipe the fur with a cotton swab dipped in warm water, preventing the deep layers from getting wet.

After cleaning the fur coat, do not forget to dry it properly. This should be done in a dry, ventilated area, in no case in the sun and not near heat sources. If the fur is not too wet, it usually takes no more than a day to dry it.

There are also dry ways to clean fur. But they are only suitable for slightly contaminated products and are more of a preventive nature. So, for light fur, you can grind a handful of rice in a coffee grinder to a state of fine powder; apply the resulting flour to the fur, rubbing the palm against the pile; let the rice soak up dirt and grease, then shake the coat well, if necessary, comb it with a fine-toothed comb.

Dark fur can be cleaned activated carbon, also ground into powder. But keep in mind that it can give an undesirable grayish tint to brown pile, so it is better to use this method for cleaning black and dark brown products.

An unpainted mink hat will serve the owner for 10–14 winters, and a fox hat for 7. But the period will be significantly reduced if it is not worn carefully, stored and cleaned incorrectly, so it is worth studying the care recommendations - they will help maintain an attractive appearance of the fur.

Full cleaning involves the treatment of both surfaces: outer (fur itself) and inner (leather, textile lining).

Let's go into detail, how to clean a fur hat at home.

It is worth assessing the degree of pollution: the presence of specks in the pile, the degree of loss of shine in the fur, discoloration(most often it changes in places where the fur rubs against the head, especially for light products).

Natural fur cleaning

It is impossible to wash a thing made of natural fur.

Before cleaning, carefully knock out the product removing surface dust deposits.

mechanical way

For processing, you will need a brush with metal teeth - with its help you need to “comb” the hat along the growth of the hair, removing the stuck debris.

You can wind cloth or cotton wool around the brush so as not to damage the skin and villi.

It is worth having a brush on the farm: it is used both before dry cleaning to remove large litter, and after - to straighten the pile.

Nai the best way- carry out the manipulation regularly during the winter season, gradually combing out the accumulated dirt.

This will avoid frequent “general cleanings”, and the fur will always look decent.

Chemical method

This method is used in the presence of deeper contamination. After such cleaning, the hat again needs to be combed - to remove the remnants of cleaning agents.

Used as a cleaning agent:

Sorbents that collect dirt: starch, sand, bran (they, like sand, must be preheated), semolina or talcum powder - they are rubbed into the pile and removed by vigorously shaking the product and brushing.

Acid (acetic essence or lemon juice) - This effective method, but after using it, the hat will inevitably have to be ventilated.

Potato peel with ammonia: the mixture is rubbed with dirt, after which it is washed off.

Hydrogen peroxide (suitable for light fur) - dilute the solution (3%) in half with water, wipe the hat and let dry.

Medical alcohol (a cotton swab is wetted in it, which wipes the stain).

Shampoos for animals (you can choose the option for dogs in a color that matches the shade of your hat): you need to wash carefully, avoiding the complete wetting of the fur, using not the liquid itself, but the foam.

If the contamination is severe, you can rub the stains with a mixture of starch and gasoline. But not every room is easy to ventilate, and gasoline is volatile and toxic.

Maybe this is the case when it is worth saving yourself from worries and giving the thing to dry cleaning.

Important! When wet cleaning, before placing the item in the closet, you need to make sure that it is completely dry. Automatic drying is not recommended for fur products - it is better to leave the hat to dry naturally at room temperature.

Faux fur cleaning

The situation with eco-fur and other artificial materials is easier due to the possibility of machine washing (without spinning, in a delicate mode).

At the same time, some chemicals in the processing faux fur cannot be used (for example, gasoline - you can take a carpet or upholstered furniture cleaner instead).

Important! If you dry the washed hat, laying it on a flat surface, it will deform. You need to use a mannequin or an inverted three-liter jar, which will fix the crown put on it in a natural position.

The lining is more soiled than the outer part of the cap due to constant contact with the skin and hair. Regular brushing will help prevent the growth of bacteria and the effect of dirt on the hair.

To get rid of small stains, a solution of alcohol or soap is suitable - you need to wipe the lining moistened with it, remove the remnants of the mixture and dry thoroughly.

If this does not help, you will have to tear off the lining (it is convenient to make markings with colored threads so that there are no problems with sewing) and wash in the usual way - in the machine. In extreme cases, you can sew a new lining from a suitable fabric and sew it on.

How to make fur shine?

The product loses its original appearance over time, but the luster and structure of the fur can be preserved using:

• glycerin;
• lemon juice;
• acetic acid solution.

The composition is applied to the pile with a spray gun, left for 10 minutes, after which the crown is wiped dry with a towel and paper napkins.

A mixture of fish oil and ammonia with water is also used, but it is not so easy to wash off.

Proper storage

The right decision would be to store fur products in a dark place (closet), where there is enough space for natural air circulation.

You need to protect the thing from dust with a textile bag made of breathable fabric - for example, cotton. But, most likely, before the onset of the cold season, the hat will need to be ventilated in any case.

If you clean the fur from small impurities and store it, eliminating access to dust, most likely, the question of the need for deep cleaning will never have to be decided and a little regular care will be enough.

Because of the small specks and dirt, you don’t want to drag the fur coat to the dry cleaners. Moreover, it can easily be spoiled there, and not all points are accepted on. To clean the fur coat yourself, you need a little patience.

When to clean your coat

First, let's figure out when you need to clean your fur coat. Everyone knows that the service life of fur products is quite long. The rabbit deteriorates the fastest, its warranty period is 4 years, you will wear the fox up to 7 years, the mink will delight you for 12 years, but the true long-liver among such products is the fur of the otter and beaver - their warranty period reaches 2 decades.

The main signs of fur coat wear:

dust pollution with a coating;
loss of color uniformity;
the presence of debris among the villi;
the presence of tangled nodules, lumps, split ends on the villi.

What manipulations are forbidden to be performed with fur coats:

wash, launder, moisten with water with detergents of any type;
dry over the flame, near the radiator, heater. After getting wet on the street, the fur coat is dried in a ventilated room, but not where there are drafts, and not near the radiator;

Remember the rules for handling fur products in order to avoid unpleasant surprises.

ironing fur is strictly prohibited. This advice may seem strange, but based on the statistics of dry cleaners, many girls bring in fur coats ironed on the lining. It seemed to them that the fur coat was wrinkled, so they decided to iron it. This cannot be done!

Cleaning a fur coat from dust with your own hands

After being in the closet, even if there is a cover, the fur coat falls into dust. To clean the fur coat from dust, it must be gently shaken or whipped.

Someone cleans with a vacuum cleaner, but this is not the best option, because. direct air currents are undesirable for pile.

The fur coat is perfectly cleaned using a coarse brush for the hair of cats or dogs. A similar metal comb is available in every pet store, so if you have a fur product, buy this accessory.

Combing a fur coat is important at least 2 times a month, because any fur and pile love careful care.

Fur coat cleaning at home

Consider options for cleaning fur coats at home from different types fur:

Fur coat.

To care for a fur coat, you will need a solution of ammonia: about 1 tsp. alcohol, 3 tsp salt and ½ liter of water. Moisten the cotton wool with this mixture and comb out the fur to eliminate stains. The final touch is drying the coat.

Mink coat.

The process of cleaning the mink fur will help to give the down a shine. And this is the main task in this situation. Shine is lost due to the washing out of fat, which is administered as follows:

100 grams of fat (fish or pork) and 10 grams of soap are dissolved in 1 liter of boiling water;

Each type of fur has its own characteristics, so it is important to know which products are suitable for cleaning each of them.

constantly stirring the ingredients, pour in 12 drops of ammonia;
cool the composition to 35 degrees and lubricate the fur coat with a brush.

Rabbit coat.

The initial cleaning of rabbit fur is provided by a comb. Then a cotton wool is taken, moistened in 5% vinegar or 5% peroxide. She treats the villi in the direction of growth. After that, the remnants of cleaning agents are removed with slightly moistened cotton wool, making sure that the base of the skin does not get wet.

Fur coat.

If the gray astrakhan has turned yellow, then it is clarified by using a 3-5% peroxide solution - a proportion of 1 tsp. for 1 st. water, plus a couple of drops of ammonia.

Fur coat from an otter or a beaver.

Fur coats made of such fur are cleaned with heated dry sand. Lay the fur coat face up on a flat surface, cover with sand and rub with your hands. Dirty sand must be shaken off and clean sand should be poured again. Repeat the manipulations until the fur is completely cleaned.

Step-by-step instructions for cleaning fur

So let's consider detailed instructions for cleaning fur coats on your own:

to begin with, gently but carefully knock out a fur coat, and then clean it with a brush moistened with gasoline. The fur of a light shade, so that it does not turn yellow, is smeared with peroxide mixed with water (1 spoon per 1 liter). If the fur has turned yellow, then wipe it with a solution with a higher concentration, but on top of the pile;
if the fur coat is crumpled, then lubricate it with a slightly moistened sponge to wet the villi. Then comb the fur in the direction of growth and let dry. After drying - knock out;
the sheepskin coat is cleaned with a solution of soap and ammonia with frequent changes of water. Get ammonia and dilute in a ratio of 1: 5 with water. Wet a cotton pad in it and walk through the greasy area. Then walk with a sponge moistened in a composition of vinegar and water (1 tsp per 1 liter). Now carefully blot moisture with gauze and dry naturally. After the absolute drying of the sheepskin coat, wipe the surface with an eraser. The final step will be wiping things with a suede brush;
Potato peels are not always worth throwing away. Sometimes they help a lot. Rinse them with water and grind in a meat grinder, pour a couple of drops of ammonia into the composition. The mixture is wiped with old fur and stale suede. Apply to the dirty stain and brush over it, then rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Dry then at normal temperature;

Subject to simple rules cleaning, your fur coat will always please the eye with a pleasant look and retain its quality for a long time.

if light fur is too dirty, then gasoline and starch will come to the rescue. Starch must be mixed with filtered gasoline. The resulting product is treated with villi and left to dry. After the fur coat is thoroughly shaken out;
in order to restore the softness of the fluff of a fur coat, yolk, glycerin and petroleum jelly will help. The yolk is rubbed with 1 tablespoon of petroleum jelly, poured in ½ liter of heated water. Means lubricate the base of the fur, dry and knead, stretching in different directions;
in order to restore elasticity to the product, the base skin is treated with glycerin, which is diluted in pure water;
to get rid of the coarsening of the mezra, you will need to moisten it with a solution of vinegar (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), knead and carefully pull in different directions. Repeat manipulations 2-3 times with an interval of a couple of hours. After that, stretch the fur coat and dry. Then knead again and process with an emulsion of fat (100 g of castor oil and 20 drops of ammonia per 1 liter of warm water). Then the fur coat must be held folded for 4 hours, then unfolded and dried again;
oily contamination from light-colored fur is removed with a composition of ammonia, salt and water (1 tsp, 3 tsp and ½ liter);

to achieve a pleasant and lasting shine of the pile, it is wiped with a cloth moistened with vinegar essence. Another option is ground walnuts, which you need to pour into 2 layers of gauze and lubricate the fur with such a swab. The fur coat absorbs and gets a beautiful glow;
products made from fake fur are sometimes sprayed with antistatic. It will help to avoid pollution and remove static electricity that attracts dust;
You can clean fake fur by creating a soapy solution. About 3 tablespoons of synthetic detergent are mixed with 1 liter of water, whipping into foam. Then they pick it up on a brush and wipe the pile with foam. The rest is removed with a natural cloth.

Dark fur coat

In order to add beauty to a dark fur coat, you need to purchase bran (bioadditive) and take ½ tbsp. walnuts. Bran is heated in an oven or microwave to 65 degrees. Now rub the product into the fur, making movements as if washing with your hands, until the bran absorbs all the dirt.

Now grind the nuts into flour and tie them with a double layer of gauze. With this “bag”, wipe the pile from root to tip. The oil will nourish the hairs, and they will get a beautiful shine.

Light fur coat

Home remedies help to clean a light fur coat quite effectively. Cleaning will require semolina and starch. This is sprinkled on a fur coat and carefully combed out.

Alcohol solution, vinegar-based formulations, peroxide - all this effectively removes stains of dirt and grease. But on natural fur, the use of such products is associated with considerable risk. If the proportions are exceeded and the mixture gets on the core, the product noticeably deteriorates.

Someone advises using a dog shampoo to clean a light fur coat. Thought, of course, curious, but it lacks common sense. Consider 2 methods for cleaning light fur:

First option.

The best option is starch. They are well covered with fur and wiped until all the dirt is collected with powder. After manipulations, the fur coat is carefully shaken out and combed. If a very gray powder comes out of the fur, then the manipulations are repeated.

Features of cleaning dark and light fur are different. Keep this in mind when choosing a tool.

Starch is also used to clean old sheepskin. Then, from the sprayer, the edge is sprayed with a solution based on laundry powder, and the composition is smeared over the wool with your hands. After the composition dries, it is required to brush it off, shake it and comb it with a slicker.

Second option.

You can clean the contaminated fur yourself as follows: sprinkle the villi with an adsorbent that absorbs dirt. In the role of it, bran of wheat or rye, dried sawdust from deciduous trees are suitable. Another option is semolina, potato flour and starch. The fur is gently rubbed with the palms of the hands so that the dirt is absorbed into the product. After it is shaken off and the pile is carefully cleaned with a brush.

Proper storage of fur

Finally, consider the rules for storing fur:

before storing a fur coat after winter, it needs to be thoroughly dried in a room or in the shade on the street;
after that, gently shake or shake the fur coat. A suitable storage method would be in a paper or polyethylene bag with an anti-moth agent inside. But in a case made of polyethylene, ensure that air enters. Otherwise, the fur deteriorates;
so that the cover does not wrinkle during storage, it is not folded on a shelf, but hung in a closet;
because fur of a light shade turns yellow due to light, then the fur coat is stored in a tight case;
you should not hang things made of dyed fur and natural fur nearby, as the dyed one will shed;

do not hang a fur coat near a whitewashed wall, lime adversely affects the pile;
if the fur coat is crumpled, then wipe it with a moistened sponge, and then shake and dry;
a fur hat is best stored in a box or paper case.

How not to stain a fur coat

So that later you do not have to clean the fur product, we will consider tips that will tell you how not to stain your fur coat:

protect fur from direct exposure to the sun. In addition, do not like a fur coat and bright artificial lighting. You have probably noticed that the products hanging in the store already look unattractive. Instead of a snow-white or milky shade, the fur becomes yellowish;

In order not to have to get rid of stubborn dirt, take some precautions when wearing a fur coat.

save fur from pests. Moths and leather beetles love to feast on fur, especially those that have been in the closet for a long time. You can protect the fur coat from insects in the right way by storing it in a case with perforations and adding lavender sprigs;
make sure that there are no stains from cosmetics and perfume. Perfumes and tonal foundations are the enemies of fur. Apply perfume ahead of time, and only then put on a fur coat. Tonal foundations are no less dangerous. Wear a scarf around your neck to protect the fur;
avoid contact with nubuck and suede accessories. If the bag is made from them, then it is important to ensure that they do not touch, and of course do not rub against the fur. A light one can easily be painted in the shade of a bag, and a dark one can simply lose its luster.

We reviewed the most popular ways to clean fur at home. But remember that before using any of them, it is worth conducting a trial test on an inconspicuous area in order to avoid unpleasant surprises in the future. In addition, do not immediately try aggressive methods using peroxide, vinegar, etc. The wrong combination and proportions will harm the fur product a lot.

Cleaning a fur hat, even at home, is not difficult. There are several ways to clean faux and natural fur without the help of specialists. Following simple rules, you can not only clean the fur, but also prolong its life, make it beautiful and shiny.

Cleaning is required both from the outside, that is, the fur itself, and from the inside, that is, the lining and leather.

We clean outside

Hat cleaning is primarily concerned with fur. It is fur that gives not only warmth, but also beauty. Before putting the hat in storage, it is necessary to clean the fur from villi and dirt. This can be done in two ways - mechanical and chemical.

Mechanical is cleaning with a metal brush. For convenience, it can be wrapped with cotton wool, which will help in collecting fine dust, lint and dirt particles. This method is suitable for new or already thoroughly cleaned hats.

The chemical method is a deeper cleaning that allows you to remove heavy dirt, clean the pile and add shine to the pile. Such a method does not necessarily involve synthetic and aggressive agents such as ammonia or gasoline. For cleaning fur hats natural substances such as starch, salt, cereals, which are found in almost any home, are also well suited.

How to clean a hat made of natural pile?

Natural fur is somewhat more difficult to clean than artificial fur, since such products cannot be washed, especially in a washing machine. Washing can lead not only to deformation of the product, but also to its shrinkage.

White or light natural fur deserves special attention. On such hats, pollution is most visible, in addition, white fur often turns yellow, changes color.

You can restore the original color and appearance of light hats in the following ways:

• using 3% hydrogen peroxide - dilute with water in a ratio of 1 to 1, spray with a spray bottle, let dry and shake;
• using shampoo for pets - dilute the shampoo with warm water, wipe the villi with a cloth moistened, wipe with a paper towel, dry and comb;
• with the help of semolina, flour or starch - heat in a pan (make sure that it does not burn, otherwise the fumes will remain on the fur), spread over the pile, wrinkle with your hands, shake and comb.

Talcum powder is also suitable: rub it into the fur, wrinkle it with your hands and shake it. Talc will help clean the hat and protect it from moths.

Spots on white and light fur are removed with gasoline mixed with starch (potato or corn). Gasoline and starch are mixed in such a way that a homogeneous mushy substance is obtained. The resulting mass is applied to the contaminated area, gently rubbed with a sponge or brush and removed from the fur with a rag.

To get rid of the hat bad smell, it should be ventilated in the fresh air. Also, do not forget about the safety rules when working with gasoline: away from fire and in well-ventilated areas.

Dark fur can be cleaned in addition to the above methods using rye bran or sand.

Bran or sand is heated in a frying pan, evenly distributed over the fur of the hat, lightly rubbed into the villi with your hands and left for several hours. Then the product is shaken and combed out with a brush. If contamination remains, the procedure must be repeated. In the case of sand, brushing should be repeated several times until the sand is completely clean.

Small dirty areas that give off a dirty gloss can be cleaned with gasoline or a solution of salt and ammonia (3 tablespoons of salt and 1 tablespoon of ammonia in 500 ml of water). Moisten a cotton pad or swab with the solution and treat the contaminated area.

How to clean a faux fur hat?

Faux fur requires more delicate cleaning than natural fur, which is due to the peculiarities of its production. Faux fur is most commonly made from acrylic and polyacrylic polymers, which may not be compatible with many chemicals. Faux fur after aggressive dry cleaning can not only lose its original appearance, but begin to crumble.

Faux fur hats can be washed in washing machine in delicate mode. It is better to dry the hat on a glass jar so that it does not lose its shape. After drying, it is necessary to comb the fur. This method of cleaning is the easiest, but it should not be abused, as frequent washing can deform the hat and fur.

Stains on a faux fur hat should not be cleaned with gasoline. A mixture of starch and liquid soap or dishwashing detergent is suitable for removing spot dirt. The mixture is applied to the villi and left to dry. Then the cleaning mass is removed from the pile with a brush.

Cleaning products for carpets and furniture can also be used to remove stains. Follow the instructions and instructions on the packaging.

We clean inside

Even if the outside of the fur looks well-groomed and clean, the lining and the inside of the hat must be cleaned before each storage.

The inside of the hat is responsible not so much for aesthetics as for the health of the wearer. The lining gets dirty faster and harder than the fur, and infrequent cleaning of the lining can be bad for the scalp and hair.

Dry and light dirt is removed with alcohol and a cotton pad or cotton swab. The hat must be turned inside out so that the lining is outside, put it on a three-liter jar and walk along the lining with a sponge dipped in soapy water. Then wipe with a damp cloth and leave to dry in this position, for example, on a balcony, away from heaters and other heat sources.

If the pollution is too strong and old, a number of actions must be taken:

1. carefully rip off the lining, marking with colored threads on the hat and the lining itself, how and to which sides of the hat to sew it back;
2. wash the lining in the usual way and leave it to dry;
3. sew up holes and cracks on the inside of the cap with ordinary cotton threads and seal the seams with a medical plaster;
4. clean with a brush both the fur and the inside of the cap with a solution of alcohol and salt (three tablespoons of alcohol and one tablespoon of salt in a glass of water);
5. dry and shake the hat;
6. sew the lining, focusing on the marks.

The hat should be sent to storage only after complete cleaning and absolute drying.

How to add shine to a fur hat?

To add shine to the villi, the following substances are suitable:

• lemon juice;
• acetic acid solution;
• glycerin solution.

Apply with a spray bottle and then wipe with a paper towel.

Returns shine product based on fish oil. For this you need:

• fish oil - 100 g;
• soap (household) - 10 g;
• ammonia - 10 drops;
• boiling water - 1 l.

All substances should be mixed, wait for cooling (to about room temperature) and spread over the fur of the hat (for convenience, you can take a sponge), and then wipe with a paper towel.

How to store?

The cleanliness of the hat may depend on the rules of storage. The hat should be stored in a "breathable" case, that is, in a fabric or paper bag. The fur should not be exposed to sunlight and warm air currents, so the ideal place is a shelf in a closet with enough free space for air circulation.