What is haute couture. Understanding High Fashion, or the Origin of the Term “Haute Couture”
Have you ever heard of such a thing as "haute couture"? Think not? You are mistaken, of course, you have heard: “haute couture” is a phrase that comes precisely from the French concept of “haute couture”, which, if translated literally, means “high tailoring” or “high fashion”.
And by the way, this does not mean at all something like “from Versace” or “from Petrovich”, as it is sometimes understood in Russian speech, “haute couture” is the highest quality mark that indicates the high value of a particular fashion object.
Today, haute couture is considered the highest segment of the entire fashion market, which presents the world with the best and most exclusive clothing models produced by the most fashionable and famous Fashion Houses.
In fact, clothes from such collections can be equated with family jewels, because their cost can easily exceed a hundred thousand dollars, while each model is created exclusively for its customer, most often, contains more than one meter of unique and extremely expensive fabric, as well as an abundance of gems.
Haute couture is always a lot of money, a real show and the best models of the world, which are harmoniously combined with unique craftsmanship, centuries-old traditions laid down by the first couturiers, as well as the real soul of the art of tailors and fashion designers.
History of haute couture
What is haute couture today? To answer this question, it is important to delve into the history of the emergence and development of this concept. Haute couture is not just something unique, exclusive and insanely expensive. In order for a couturier to be able to create clothes from "haute couture", he must receive a special certificate and become a member of the Paris Haute Couture Syndicate.
The latter is an exclusively French trade union, which operates according to fairly strict rules. For example, such clothes must be 70% hand-sewn, and the fabric for its creation is selected exclusively from those models that were presented at the High Fashion Week.
It is believed that the first real couturier is C. F. Worth, who specially moved to Paris in 1858 and opened his fashion house there. Why exactly him? Yes, because it was Worth who first began to dictate his rules to dear clients, which they appreciated and accepted. It was he who began to distinguish between collections depending on the seasons, his models were living girls, and not rag dolls, as was customary before.
He was the first to sew personalized ribbons to his outfits, which testified to the true origin of each model that came out of his hands. I must say that all the innovations put forward by Worth were quickly adopted by other fashion designers who called him a real revolutionary in the fashion world.
Today, in order to join the ranks of "Haute couture", it is necessary to submit an application to the High Fashion Syndicate, where it will be reviewed and subjected to careful study. For example, in order to obtain the coveted status, which, mind you, can only be obtained by having the main production in Paris, at the same time, at least 20 permanent employees must work for it, among which there are top specialists in silk, tailoring, as well as permanent fashion models.
The Fashion House is obliged to release at least 2 collections every year, in which 50 fresh models are presented. In addition, it is necessary to pay a considerable entrance fee, but what a status is acquired through difficult conditions!
Haute couture in the modern world
Surprisingly, most of the fashion traditions that were dictated by Worth over 100 years ago continue to be respected in the world of high fashion today! As before, dresses are created exclusively according to the figure of the customer, and all the models presented on the catwalk are nothing more than samples.
Like many years ago, such things are very expensive, sometimes a fortune, which is inherited or, over time, put up for auction. As a rule, such clothes are worn only a couple of times for extremely significant and pompous events that are of particular importance in the world.
Designers from such a fashion house approach each new image with special attention and vigilance, with each order a lot of questions are asked so that two dresses from the same collection cannot “meet” at the same event.
In general, not everyone, even wealthy people, can afford such a luxury, each of the Houses, on average, serves about 150 privileged regular customers. Someone says that haute couture is a relic of the past, however, be that as it may, this is a real cultural heritage of France, a storehouse of centuries-old experience and ancient knowledge that distinguish such clothes from stamped "made in China".
May 26, 2003We have all heard the expressions "couture", "haute couture", "high fashion". But how many people know what is behind them, and what criteria must the master's products meet in order to achieve such a high title?
Firstly, there is a big difference between "couture" and "haute couture" (like this, even with a capital letter, so that there is no doubt). This difference is determined by such a serious organization as the Paris Syndicate of High Fashion (Chambre Cyndicale de la Couture Parisienne).
According to its rules, products "haute couture" must be made by no less than 70% by hand. A large number of fashion houses meet these requirements through the use of embroideries and appliqués. Dresses are sewn from fabric specially made for them, the one and only. Naturally, the cost of such a material is very high, and that is why haute couture items are extremely expensive.
To be certified haute couture, a fashion house must employ at least 20 people and present at least 50 models to the international press twice a year. The budget of a haute couture house, as a rule, is 15-20 million francs per year.
And finally, in order to get the right to be called a haute couture house, you must be located in Paris and only in Paris. Whether you are at least three times a brilliant Italian, British, American. If you want to be haute couture, go to the recognized capital of fashion and set up your headquarters, boutique, atelier there.
As you understand, based on such a tough approach, there cannot be many Haute Couture houses, by definition. There are only about twenty of them. They are included in the main calendar of High Fashion Week in Paris. The season begins with the presentation of new collections of great fashion designers. They take place in January and July, usually at the Croiselle du Louvre.
Haute Couture Weeks carefully avoid any connection with ready-to-wear fashion weeks, traditionally held in March and October. Although the collections are presented by the same Houses - Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix, etc. The richest and most famous people in the world, who can afford a dress from 100 thousand dollars or more, consider it their duty to attend Haute Couture shows.
In addition to "Haute Couture" there are invited to the Week. These are fashion houses that also tailor-made clothes to the client, but which do not meet the other criteria of the haute couture house. Therefore, they are simply called "Couture", and also take part in the haute couture week.
In addition to the invited members, there are corresponding members of the Fédération Française de Haute Couture. These are fashion houses that make haute couture in their own country, but which do not have the right to be called haute couture in Paris, since they are not located in Paris. Among them are such world-famous Houses as Valentino and Versace, as well as the Russian Valentin Yudashkin.
After all of the above, you probably will not be surprised by the fact that such fashion houses are unprofitable enterprises, because the cost of costumes, shows, and advertising is much higher than the income for the sale of such "exclusive" products. The enrichment mechanism is somewhat different - it is trade in a name, a brand. Thousands of factories sew clothes with an emblem, for example, Versace. One cent for a name on every product is enough.
Of course, astronomical prices make haute couture products inaccessible to mere mortals, but the ready-made dress industry is based on the achievements of high fashion. It is "Haute couture" that mass fashion draws new silhouettes, lines, colors.
About high fashion Haute Couture and those who create it
When many years ago, I myself first came into close contact with the world of fashion, I was intrigued by the unusual word "couturier", which was pronounced with special reverence. At that time, no one could really explain to me who the “couturiers” were, and, in fact, what “haute couture” fashion was. I had to figure it out myself, it turned out that not everything is as simple as it seemed! But now, I can tell you in detail and thoroughly about who these mysterious couturiers are, and why the knees of the models begin to buckle from excitement at this very word!
If you start looking for an answer to the question: who are the "couturiers" on the Internet, or just ask your friends, you will most likely get in response something like - "these are such fashion designers." In fact, few people know the correct answer to this question. On the one hand, right, these are fashion designers, on the other hand, these are special fashion designers who stand apart from everyone else. In addition, I have repeatedly witnessed when local fashion designers, the press and fans proudly called, for example, “Ukrainian couturier”. This is fundamentally wrong, and even somewhat funny, now you will understand why.
The fact is that the title of "couturier" can only be worn by French fashion designers, or, to be more precise, by Parisian Fashion Houses. In 1868, a certain Charles Frederick Worth, who is considered the first "couturier", founded the High Fashion Syndicate, in whose rules the requirements for "fashion haute couture" were prescribed. So, according to the rules, as already mentioned, only Paris Fashion Houses, which had at least 20 people on staff, and held shows of new collections (at least 35 models) could bear the title of “haute couture”. And most importantly, such models of clothes, shoes, accessories - should have been 70% handmade! By the way, the very word "couturier" comes from the French "couturiere" - a dressmaker.
To understand the very essence of haute couture, you need to go back in history. So, Charles Frederick Worth, the first of the fashion designers changed the "rules of the game" in the fashion industry. If earlier, rich ladies, when ordering tailoring, dictated their wishes about style, style, materials, etc., then Worth began to make handmade things at his own discretion and demonstrate them on models. And rich clients, in turn, evaluated the clothes on fashion models and chose what they liked. Since then, another fundamental rule has not changed - haute couture clothes are created in a single copy, or in extreme cases, in very limited quantities.
Over time, not only French designers desired to receive the highest title of "couturier", therefore, an exception was made for some foreign companies and fashion designers. In general, they are not full-fledged “Haute Couture”, but something like corresponding members of the High Fashion Syndicate. Thus, "couturier" can be called not only a representative of the Paris Fashion House, but also other recognized designers. But it is worth remembering that there are still very few of them all over the world! All couturiers are famous people, for example, let's name some of the most famous names and brands: Givenchy, Balmain, Chanel, Cristian Dior, Kenzo, Karl Lagerfeld, Louis Vuitton, Paco Rabanne, Gianni Versace, etc.
To participate in the haute couture show is the dream of any model! Haute Couture fashion shows are considered the most prestigious in the modeling industry, to get there you need to go through a successful professional path as a model, have the appropriate experience and parameters. But if you have works for Valentino, Lanvin, Elie Saab and others in your portfolio, then almost any door in the modeling business will be open!
"My dresses are ephemeral pieces of architecture designed to celebrate the proportions of the female body"
Christian Dior
All the women of the world are incredibly delighted with just one word "Haute couture". Where did this concept come from, and what does it really mean? haute couture- translated from French literally "high fashion / high sewing craft." That is, haut (e) is read according to the rules of the French language “from” - and means high (th) / upper (th) / expensive (th) / significant (th).
Couture in translation - tailoring, sewing craft, fashion. High fashion includes the creations of leading fashion houses that set the tone for all international fashion, as well as unique models that are produced in famous fashion salons by order of the client, in a single copy. The very concept of "haute couture" appeared in the middle of the XIX century. Then the first fashion salons and the first fashion designers began to appear. haute couture owes its appearance to Charles Frederick Worth. In 1858, this English fashion designer opened his House of Models in Paris and was the first to distribute collections by season. Today, haute couture houses include: Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior, Jeanne Lanvin, Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ralph Rucci, Gianfranco Ferre, Gianni Versace, Valentino Garavani, John Galliano and others. The number of haute couture houses does not change often, and almost always stays around 20. The reason is a very tough selection and extremely high requirements for candidates. If you want to say haute couture houses, fashion houses and other synonyms in French, then remember the following phrases: les grandes maisons de couture, les maisons de haute couture, les maisons de mode, les grandes maisons de mode. How talk about fashion in french, you can find out by reading below short top in french written by me personally.
La mode francaise
La France est la capitale de la mode mondiale, des parfums raffinés et des designers talentieux. Les noms Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent, Givenchy sont associés à l'ère de la Haute Couture quand les vetements ont devenu l'art.
coco chanel est la personne la plus importante dansl'histoire de la mode du XXe siècle. Chanel a crée une petite robe noire et des chapeaux pour les femmes extraordinaires. Un tailleur "de Chanel" est devenu un symbole d'une nouvelle génération: fait en tweed, avec une jupe étroite, une veste sans col avec des boutons dorés. Coco Chanel a inventé beaucoup de vetements modernes, qui nous semblent tout à fait ordinaires: un sac en bandoulière et des pantalons pour les femmes. En plus, l'un des parfums les plus connus dans le monde est le Chanel No. 5.
Christian Dior a créé un concept entièrement nouveau dans sa première collection en 1947. C’étaient des robes romantiques en soie et en mousseline. Il aussi aimé des parfums. Il y a totalement 97 parfums Dior, le premier d'entre eux a été lancé en 1947 - Christian Dior Miss Dior.
La maison de Givenchy a été fondée en 1952 par M. Hubert de Givenchy. Il a été le premier couturier qui a inventé le terme "prêt-à-porter". Audrey Hepburn présentait cette maison, ses personnages sur l'écran portaient toujours des robes Givenchy.
Yves Saint Laurentétait le successeur de la maison Dior. C'est grâce à lui la garde-robe féminine a revêti le caractère masculin: vestes en cuir, bottes à l'écuyère et des costumes pour les femmes. On le nomme le fondateur du style unisexe.
The highest craftsmanship of sewing art, exclusive models produced by the most famous designers and fashion houses.
To be able to create haute couture clothes, you need to get a certificate. According to the rules prescribed in 1868 by the Parisian (Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne), such clothes must be hand-sewn by at least 70% and from specially created fabrics for Haute Couture models.
Only the fashion houses of Paris can obtain a certificate for the production of Haute couture models. To do this, it is necessary that the Fashion House consists of at least 20 people and presents at least fifty new models twice a year.
However, in other countries there are Fashion houses that create haute couture models in their homeland, for example, and. But since they are not located in Paris, it is in this city that their collections do not have the right to be called Haute couture.
The first famous couturier was a French fashion designer of the 19th century.Charles Frederick Worth . He introduced the possibility for a client to order a dress he liked in his atelier, began to create small collections and distribute them according to the seasons. Charles Frederick Worth was the first to use mannequins for his collections. He also introduced licensing for the mass creation of copies of his collections under his own name.
Designers such as Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior ( Christian Dior, Emanuel Ungaro, Hubert de Givenchy, Jeanne Lanvin, Gianni Versace, Christian Lacroix, Gianfranco Ferre, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and many others.
Today, as in the 19th century, Haute couture clothes are made to measure for each client. It takes over 150 hours of manual labor, several meters of unique fabric and a lot of jewelry. Therefore, only very wealthy people can afford to order a haute couture dress.
The cost of high fashion clothing can exceed $100,000. As a rule, it is worn 2-3 times. After that, the owner either carefully stores it in his own haute couture collection and then passes it on by inheritance, or gives it to the museum fund or puts it up for auction.
