Skirt modeling. Modeling a skirt with reliefs

The relief starts from the side seam on the back panel of the skirt, goes to the most protruding part of the buttocks, and then takes a vertical direction (Fig. 196).

Rice. 196

On a copy of the base pattern of the back panel of the skirt, draw a relief line according to the model (Fig. 197).

Rice. 197

If desired, the relief can be placed a little higher or lower, to the right or to the left of the base tuck. In this case, you need to draw a line of relief, then translate the tuck of the base so that its end is on the vertical line of the relief (the dashed horizontal line shows how much the tuck is made shorter).

Cut the pattern along the inclined line of the relief to notch A and, closing the tuck of the base, continue the cut to the bottom line (Fig. 198).

Rice. 198

Skirt with front yoke

The yoke line on the front of the skirt passes through the ends of the darts (Fig. 199). Transfer the front of the skirt from the base pattern without darts and draw a yoke according to the model: 4 cm below the waist line along the side cut line and 15 cm along the mid-front line.

Rice. 199

Transfer two or three tucks from the base pattern to the new pattern, placing them closer to the side cut line (Fig. 200). Then change their length so that they end at the yoke line (the ends of the base darts lines are marked with horizontal dashed lines).

Rice. 200

Cut off the yoke and close the tucks, bringing their sides together, but not overlapping each other (Fig. 201). The reduced length of the darts does not spoil the appearance of the yoke and provides the necessary bulge of the skirt in this place.

Rice. 201

If the lines of the tucks are straight, then they are completely closed (Fig. 202). Such darts are used on very soft fabrics or knitwear.

Rice. 202

Skirt with tails from the waistline

The model of this skirt is shown in fig. 203. Consider their construction on the front panel of the skirt (the construction is similar on the back panel).

Rice. 203

On the drawing of the front of the skirt, on which the tucks are not indicated, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front, dividing the pattern into equal strips, and number them (Fig. 204).

Rice. 204

Distribute the depth of the main dart between all the cuts and the mid-front line and draw slightly raised lines of darts about 8 cm long.

Cut a copy of the template into strips and cut out the darts. Expand the skirt as shown below.

There can be three options for expanding the skirt. The amount of expansion depends on the type of fabric, silhouette and fashion.

After the darts are closed, continue to spread the stripes until you get the desired skirt extension at the bottom. Along the lines of the middle of the front and the side cut, also add half the coattail.

On the patterns of the drawings of the skirts, mark the direction of the shared (or oblique) thread. In addition, if the model does not have a seam along the middle line, you must specify the fold of the fabric (the middle of the front is one-piece lobar or oblique).

Skirt with two seams in front

The shape of the skirt shown in fig. 207, the same as the previous one, but the construction of its pattern is different.

Rice. 207

Determine on the figure at what distance from the middle of the front the seams should be located, and draw the lines of the seams parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 208). The position and direction of the seam in a flared skirt must be consistent with the location and shape of the tuck.

Rice. 208

On both sides of the cut line, draw lines for tucking the base if its solution is not too large. For some figures, a tuck 3-3.5 cm deep is required in this place in front of the skirt, but this is extremely rare.

Therefore, it is better to limit the tuck depth to approximately 2 cm. In this case, transfer the rest of the tuck solution to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in Fig. 208.

Cut the pattern along the marked line, transfer both parts of the front of the skirt to another sheet of paper and expand the skirt (Fig. 209).

Rice. 209

Set aside half of the extension (for example 8 cm) from the cut line. Draw a straight line through the obtained point, tangent to the cut line. Correct the line of the bottom of the skirt, as shown in fig. 209.

The share thread of the fabric should pass in the middle of the wedge.

The back panel of the skirt is cut out in the same way as the front panel, in the form of a wide wedge without a seam in the middle (as for a six-seam skirt).

The tuck on the back panel can, if necessary, be placed entirely in the cut line, but you can also transfer part of the solution to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in fig. 210.

Rice. 210

If the extension is given on each wedge of the model, it is possible to connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt. In this case, the side seam is excluded.

You can also connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt without expanding them.

If the back panel of the skirt has a seam in the middle, make a small tuck in it along the waistline and make an expansion equal to one third of the coattail. The reduction is done because the tail always seems larger here (Fig. 211).

Rice. 211

Bell skirt

The expansion of the skirt at the seams starts low (Fig. 212). A skirt of this shape can be obtained by making it from at least four wedges.

Rice. 212

Transfer to a sheet of paper a drawing of a skirt from fig. 208.

Slightly below the middle of the length, indicate the beginning of the expansion of the skirt (Fig. 213).

Rice. 213

Cut the template along the dashed line, transfer it to another sheet of paper.

Add half of the extension to each part along the bottom line (for example, 4 cm).

Connect the obtained points with inclined solid lines with the existing notches (Fig. 214).

Rice. 214

Skirt made of narrow stripes flared at the bottom

According to the same principle, it is possible to make patterns for the model shown in Fig. 215. A group of stripes is usually located in the area between the warp darts on both the back and front panels of the skirt.

Rice. 215

On the pattern of the front panel, draw two parallel lines at a distance of 5 cm from one another and draw two small concave tucks (Fig. 216).

Rice. 216

Draw one strip separately, indicate the direction of the shared thread and add on each side at the required height half the tail of the desired size. Draw a bottom line as indicated above (solid line). The dashed line indicates that the half-fold may be a quarter-circle. The second strip is drawn in the same way.

On the back panel of the skirt, the stripes appear wider at the waist than at the level of the hip line. This visual distortion is caused by the bulge of the figure in the buttocks. Therefore, in order to maintain the appearance of parallel stripes, they need to be slightly narrowed along the waist line.

Draw two lines at a distance of 5 cm from each other on the pattern of the back panel of the skirt, as shown in fig. 217. On each line, mark the level of the end of the warp tuck and build the darts with a solution of 0.6 cm. This value is sufficient for a normal bulge of the hips. The size of the tuck solution can be clarified by fitting.

Rice. 217

Measure on the template how much the length of the waistline has decreased (in the example by 1-2 cm), subtract this value from the size of the base tuck solution and add the remainder to the side strip.

Flared skirt with pats

The model of this skirt is shown in fig. 218.

Rice. 218

On the template of a straight skirt, draw the lines of the stalemate and the line of expansion parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 219).

Rice. 219

Transfer both parts of the skirt to separate sheets of paper and expand it, starting from the bottom edge of the stalemate (Fig. 220, the width of the half-fold is 5 cm).

Rice. 220

To facilitate fitting on the side of the skirt, mark the location of the stalemate. Translate also the slightly concave tuck lines of the skirt. Notches marked with a cross are needed to accurately connect the parts of the skirt.

On the stalemate, mark the location of the button and buttonhole. Mark the finishing stitch with strokes to correctly position the button.

To make the expansion more significant, you should make a flared skirt pattern (see Fig. 205), attach the resulting pattern to the figure and outline the stalemate and cut line.

Skirt with spiral relief

In this skirt (Fig. 221), the asymmetrical undercut continues continuously from the front to the back panel of a straight or flared skirt.

Rice. 221

First determine the shape of the main lines of the skirt: curved, semi-curved, straight.

Select the appropriate base pattern. If the dress with such a skirt is of an adjacent silhouette, choose darts or relief that best fit the model.

If the skirt is loose, cut the auxiliary pattern along the waistline to make it easier to convert a straight skirt into a loose skirt, and then match both parts.

If the relief of the skirt should match the relief of the bodice, coordinate both parts along the waist line after closing the tucks on them (thin dashed lines).

To draw an asymmetric relief, you need to complete the entire left and right parts of the skirt pattern and the back, if the relief continues on the back.

Translate the left and right parts of the front panel of the skirt (see Fig. 205).

Follow the pattern of the back panel of the skirt, forming the same extension on it.

Close the darts and connect both parts of the skirt along the side lines.

Draw the relief as shown in Fig. 222 (or vice versa). Lay the pattern flat and refine the drawing.

Rice. 222

In the example, the relief is tilted from left to top and to the right. But it can also be the other way around.

Pleated skirt

The back panel of the skirt is trimmed with a flared detail, which is slightly gathered along the undercut (Fig. 223). This is one of the ways that gives freedom of movement with a long straight skirt.

Rice. 223

Sometimes such a detail is cut out in the form of a train. On the pattern of the back panel of the skirt (with one or two darts), draw an oblique and then a vertical undercut line. Divide the item into strips 1, 2 and Z (Fig. 224).

Rice. 224

Before cutting the numbered strips, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the direction of fall of the assemblies. For a part with a small height, as in the example, this line is the bottom line.

Cut out the numbered strips. Put them on another sheet of paper and, focusing on the horizontal line, move the strips apart so as to obtain the necessary expansion for assemblies (Fig. 225, a). Indicate clearly the middle of each strip at the top with small vertical lines and mark the height of the strips with the letters A and O.

Rice. 225

Draw a new upper line, connecting points A and O with a straight line passing through the marked midpoints of the strips (Fig. 225b).

It is easier to draw an upper slanted line by connecting two vertical lines that mark the different heights of the part.

Divide this part into strips of the same width (Fig. 225, c), cut along the marked lines and expand the lower part, as shown in fig. 225

Skirt flared below the waistline

Skirt extensions at a distance of 8-10 cm below the waist (Fig. 226) are achieved by performing assemblies.

Rice. 226

Similar models of skirts are complemented by petticoats specially designed for each skirt.

On a piece of fabric, determine the required size of the solution of the tucks (for this model, 7-8 cm x 2 + 2-3 cm is enough for the bulge along the side seam).

Subtract the value of the solution of the main tuck from the obtained overall result and expand the base pattern by the missing value (Fig. 227, a), guided by the method of obtaining the coattails.

Rice. 227

Determine the desired width of the skirt at the bottom and make the appropriate changes to the pattern (Fig. 227, b).

Mark the darts and relief in accordance with the model. Close the resulting darts, attach the pattern to the figure and refine it.

Half-sun skirt

The pattern of such a skirt is a semicircle. Run a quarter circle for the front and back panels of the skirt (Fig. 228).

Rice. 228

According to the base pattern, measure the length of the waist line of the front and back panels and subtract the size of the opening of the base tucks. Multiply each of the obtained measurements by two to obtain the width of each panel (the construction of the pattern is carried out on the figure completely).

If both panels of the skirt are the same, then it is enough to divide the waist measurement in half (for a dress - the measurement of the pattern, for a separate skirt - the measurement taken from the figure).

Start with the back panel. According to the measure taken, depict a quarter of a circle (Fig. 229).

Rice. 229

Let the width of the back of the skirt along the waist line be 15, and the front - 17.5 cm. Divide 15 by 3.1 and multiply the resulting number by two to get the radius of a quarter circle (for example, 4.8 x 2 \u003d 9.6 cm ).

Construct a right angle using a rectangle. From the top of the right angle, mark a quarter circle with a compass, the arc of which will be the waist line (see Fig. 228).

On the continuation of the radius, set aside a segment equal to the length of the skirt (for example, 25 cm). With a radius equal to 9.6 + 15 cm, draw a line at the bottom of the skirt.

For the front panel (front) of the skirt, do the same calculations (17.5: 3.1 \u003d 5.6 cm; 5.6 x 2 \u003d 11.2 cm). On fig. 229 dashed lines show the pattern of the front of the skirt.

When constructing both parts of the pattern on one sheet of paper, as in Fig. 229, use a colored pencil for one of the panels of the skirt.

Skirts cut "sun"

For a sun skirt, build a full circle (half a circle for the front of the skirt and half a circle for the back).

Follow the drawing as for a semi-sun skirt.

To draw a waist line according to the measurement taken, you need to determine the radius. To do this, it is enough to divide the required waist measurement by 3.1 (for example, for the back panel of the skirt 15: 3.1 \u003d 4.8 cm).

Draw a straight line and mark the length of the skirt on it (Fig. 230). From the end of the side cut line, set aside the radius and draw the waist line of the back panel of the skirt (solid line).

Rice. 230

Then, taking into account the length of the skirt, draw a line for the bottom of the back panel (solid line).

Strokes are the front lines.

Skirt cut "sun" from several semicircles. To get a skirt wider than a full circle, it is enough to divide the waist circumference by the number of semicircles that the mod requires, and build a drawing according to the resulting measurement. For example, for a skirt of four semicircles with a waist circumference of 64 cm, you need to divide 64 first by four, and then the resulting value by 3.1 (to determine the radius).

Pleated skirt. The width of such a skirt at the waist is greater than the waist circumference, by the amount necessary for assemblies. For a tulle skirt, the width of the skirt along the waist lines is 2-4 times larger than the waist circumference.

Divide your waistline measurement (including gather allowance) by the number of half circles you want and build the drawing as explained earlier.

The shape and large surface of the resulting pattern cause some difficulties in cutting the skirt.

On fig. 231 shows three options for the location of parts of the pattern on a striped fabric. The method of cutting the skirt according to fig. 231,b is the most economical. For striped fabrics, cutting according to fig. 231, in.

Rice. 231

The location of the seams depends on the model. To imagine the location of the stripes at the seams, transfer the strips of fabric to the pattern and connect the pieces of the pattern. If the fabric is much narrower than the skirt, separate the part of the pattern that does not decrease along the width of the fabric (take into account the width of the edge), and transfer it along the length of the fabric, keeping the same direction of the warp threads (Fig. 232).

Rice. 232

Cut out the missing part of the pattern, leaving a seam allowance along a straight line, and match this part along the seam with the second part of the pattern. The location of this seam greatly affects the appearance of the skirt. You can make either vertical seams in the middle of the part (see Fig. 231, b), or extension parts (see Fig. 231, c).

http://shjem-krasivo.ru/

Hello, friends!

Today's publication is the answer to a question that I recently received from a reader of the blog "You can't forbid beautiful sewing!".

You have no idea how nice it is to know that my leadership brings benefits and tangible results, in the form of new products!

I am always happy when I receive such letters in which you share your victories, thank you!

I could not leave Nellie's request without attention.

The request is, and I quote:

"Hello, Elena!

I don't know if I can address you with a personal request. The fact is that the cold is coming and I would like to sew a warm skirt. But I have certain wishes. I want a pencil skirt with reliefs in front (a simpler relief is possible - two seams vertically in the middle of each leg), without a belt, just with a facing and a zipper at the back, with a lining and a slot. The length is slightly above the knee.

I bought suit fabric on fleece, laid it out and was confused.

Elena, if you can help, I will be very grateful. My size is 48 (if anything). I took a course from you on building the base of a pencil skirt, but I couldn’t model it myself. I have never sewed skirts with lining and vents. You have a very accessible form of explanation, I really liked it.

Thanks in advance."

In short, I already answered Nelly's question by mail so as not to delay the creative process, but I promised to tell you more about this model.

Andso, today we will consider the modeling of a skirt with reliefs and the technology of sewing this skirt.

To model a skirt with reliefs, you need to either build a straight skirt pattern or use a ready-made pattern for your figure.

Of course, it is better to build your base, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, especially if it differs from generally accepted standards, but if you have a proven ready-made pattern, it will also work.

Modeling of a skirt with reliefs.

Modeling a similar skirt is easy.

To do this, on the basis of a straight skirt, you need to draw a line parallel to the middle of the front panel from the end of the tuck (if you need reliefs on the back panel, draw a line parallel to the middle of the back panel, respectively).

Sign the details, mark the shared thread and cut the patterns along the marked lines.

The technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs.

Skirt lining. Stages of cutting and processing.

If the skirt is lined:

The lining should be cut according to the cut details of the skirt, keeping all the decorative and constructive lines of the cut.

Before basting on the sides, for a better fit of the skirt due to the side allowances, be sure to cut off 0.2 cm on both sides, leaving the width of the allowances for the seams, but reducing the lining along the circumference of the hips, and therefore in general for the manufactured product.

If the style of the skirt is without structural and decorative elements, sewing on the lining is easy:

Stitch the darts and side cuts, leaving 16-18 cm unstitched for fastening in the left side seam (or optional), hem the bottom of the skirt flush with the cut of the allowance for hemming the bottom of the product.

Combine the processed lining with the waistline, baste.

IMPORTANT: if the upper cut of the skirt is processed with a facing, then the lining is cut out minus the details of the facing. The podkald is stitched to the lower cuts of the facing.

In the clasp, stitch the lining for allowances. To make the lining less mobile, fasten on one side at the level of the hips along the allowances for the seams with the product.

In pleated skirts, position the seam of the lining over the pleat of the top and process the slit for a free step.

The darts and seams in the lining should be located strictly above the darts and seams of the top of the skirt.

Processing the lining in a skirt with a vent.

If the skirt has a vent, the lining of the lower part of the vent must be folded inward and sewn with blind stitches for the allowance for processing the top.

On the upper part of the lining, make a notch to the width of the allowance for the slots, from the corner - by 0.7 cm, bend the allowance inward and hem manually according to the allowance for processing the slots.

Along the upper edge of the lining with the top of the skirt, we will process the belt or facing.

I do not yet have a video on the topic of processing with a slot (you need to fix the situation), but I found an interesting and understandable video for you.

The teacher very competently and clearly explains to beginners the stages of processing slots.

The first part of the spline processing

The second part of the processing splines

The third part of the spline processing

Skirt ironing.

Skirts need to be ironed only on an ironing board, electric, with an iron with a thermostat through an iron.

First you need to carefully iron, iron or iron all seams, darts, folds, pockets, and then the entire skirt completely through the ironing from the wrong side.

We fix the ironed product on a hanger, leave it to dry completely and fix the shape given to the product (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).

Iron the side seams of the skirts on a special oval-shaped pillow (can be replaced with a towel folded several times) to avoid deformation of the side lines.

When ironing the bottom hemming, it is better to place a double folded fabric to the edge of it and slide the iron over the hemming and the underlying fabric through the moistened iron so that the edge of the seam is not printed on the front side.

Fix the ironed product on a hanger, leave it to dry completely and fix the shape given to the product (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).

We iron all finished products only in the shared direction of the thread, without stretching it.

So, we have considered the modeling and technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs, I hope now it will not be difficult for you to sew such a skirt.

The purpose of the lesson: to acquaint students with the methods of modeling straight skirts; teach how to model a skirt of the chosen style.

Tools and fixtures: scissors, ruler, pencil, glue, landscape sheets, straight skirt templates in m 1:4.

Visual aids: posters with models of various skirts, samples of various skirts.

During the classes

I. Organizational moment.

Checking student attendance.
Check readiness for the lesson.
Workplace organization.
Distribution of task cards.
Conducting introductory training.

II. Repetition of the material covered.

1. Mark the correct answers with a “+” sign.

On which side of the human figure are measurements taken?
on the left
on the right

What are measurements taken with?
ruler
compass
measuring tape

How should you stand when taking measurements?
leaning forward slightly
straight (at attention)
bending one leg at the knee
drawing in the stomach

Why is a belt tied around the waist when taking measurements?
to clarify the position of the hip line
to divide the figure into "top" and "bottom"
to clarify the position of the waistline

Write down the name of the measurements according to the legend.
1) St_________________________________________________
2) Dst________________________________________________
3) Sat_________________________________________________
4) Di_________________________________________________

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the length of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the width of the product
Dst
St
Di
Sat

III. Main part.

In order to sew a skirt of various styles, it is necessary to make changes to the finished pattern, i.e. run the simulation. At the same time, the drawing of the base of the skirt can be cut anywhere, but be sure to keep the width of the product along the waistline and length.

Modeling is the creative process of creating new models.

Modeling is divided into artistic and technical. Artistic modeling is done by fashion designers, creating sketches of models. Technical modeling is done by design artists, creating models according to a sketch based on a basic design.

The main modeling techniques are:

Translation of darts
Changing the position of the main constructive lines.
Breeding parts of a garment to change the degree of fit.
Formation of a new cut by drawing up parts of the structural foundations.

Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of styles of skirts: narrow and wide, long and short, with coquettes at the back and front, with cuts and folds of various shapes. The construction of a drawing of a straight skirt was carried out in such a way that drawings of two parts were obtained at once: the front and rear panels. For modeling, these parts need to be divided (cut), since each part is modeled separately.

Skirt flared at the bottom.

On the drawing of the front and rear panels, from the side of the side cut line, set aside the required expansion along the bottom line (5-7 cm). Then connect the resulting points H 1 and H 2 with the lines of the side tuck.

The narrowing of the skirt along the bottom line.

In the drawing of the front and rear panels from the side cut, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired value (H 3 and H 4). Then connect points H 3 and H 4 with points B 2 and B 2 on the line of the hips. Cut off the excess parts of the pattern.

Changing the length of the skirt.

Most often, the length of the skirt from maxi to mini is determined by fashion. For freedom of movement, women's long skirts are made with cuts, slots, fasteners.

Extensions of a straight skirt by closing the darts.

Very comfortable to wear slightly widened straight skirt. Such an expansion is easy to perform by closing the darts based on a straight skirt.

Draw vertical lines along the center lines of the front and back panels of the skirt until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines.

Push the patterns in the lower part until the tuck is completely closed.

Expansion of a straight skirt by partially closing the tuck and additional cut.

With a significant expansion of the skirt, additional vertical cuts can be made on the panels, which will make the expansion more uniform.

Draw vertical straight lines along the axial lines of the darts of the front and back panels, as well as through the middle of the segments B 6 B 2 and B 2 B 7 until they intersect with the bottom line.

Cut the patterns along the marked lines and expand the resulting parts to the desired width.

Make the bottom line a smooth curve.

Modeling a skirt with a yoke.

Coquettes in skirts are very widely used. They provide a more precise fit of the skirt on the figure, especially when making a skirt made of dense fabric. Constructive yoke lines make the skirt more elegant.

Visually lengthen the figure. The coquette can be both on the front and on the back panel, or on both panels at once.

When modeling, the yoke line can be a straight, curved or broken line, which, as a rule, passes through the end of the tuck. If the yoke line is located above the end of the tuck, then its upper part is closed, and the part of the tuck remaining on the panel is included in reliefs, folds and other constructive lines. If the yoke line is located below the end of the tuck, then it is either kept or extended to the yoke line and then closed.

Through the end of the tuck of the front (or back) panel, draw a straight line of the coquette A B.

Cut the pattern along this line and fold the yoke from the cut off upper parts, while closing the tuck. Draw the upper and lower sections of the coquette with a smooth line.

Now let's look at how these and some other methods of modeling skirts are applied to specific styles.

Model 1. Skirt, extended at the bottom, with a yoke in front.

Model 2. Skirt with a yoke and an inverted pleat at the front.

Draw a straight yoke line through the end of the tuck.
Cut off the yoke, close the tuck. Draw the upper and lower sections of the coquette with smooth lines.
Draw straight lines parallel to the line of the middle of the front panel, indicating the depth of the opposite fold. Complete the pattern at the top of the fold, as shown in the figure.

Counter folds are those in which on the front side the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other, and on the wrong side - in different directions.

The counter fold is marked on the wrong side of the fabric with three lines:

a) the middle line - the inflection line,
b) lateral line;
c) a line that defines the end of the stitching.

The crease allowance is equal to the depth of one crease multiplied by 4.

Model 3. Skirt with pockets and front pleats.

Construct on the drawing of the front panel the pocket entry line (K 1 K 2), the pocket depth line (K 3 K 4) and the line of the beginning of the folds (ab).
Cut the drawing along the line of the entrance to the pocket (K 3 K 4), the line of the beginning of the folds (ab) and along the vertical line of the tuck axis.
Construct a drawing of a pocket burlap (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4). Complete the side part of the front panel of the skirt with a section (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4).
Build a part of the pattern with folds, having previously made a paper layout.

IV. The final part of the lesson.

Control over the quality of assimilation of new material.
Assessment of the test task.

V. Homework.

Draw sketches of the styles of the skirt that you would like to sew.
Bring to the next lesson: paper, ruler, pencils, textbook, workbook.

Hello, friends!

Today's publication is the answer to a question that I received not so long ago from a reader of the blog “You can't forbid beautiful sewing!”.

You have no idea how nice it is to know that my leadership brings benefits and tangible results, in the form of new products!

I am always happy when I receive such letters in which you share your victories, thank you!

I could not leave Nellie's request without attention.

The request is, and I quote:

"Hello, Elena!

I bought suit fabric on fleece, laid it out and was confused.

Thanks in advance."

In short, I already answered Nelly's question by mail so as not to delay the creative process, but I promised to tell you more about this model.

Andso, today we will consider the modeling of a skirt with reliefs and the technology of sewing this skirt.

Modeling of a skirt with reliefs.

Modeling a similar skirt is easy.

Sign the details, mark the shared thread and cut the patterns along the marked lines.

The technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs.

Skirt lining. Stages of cutting and processing.

If the skirt is lined:

The lining should be cut according to the cut details of the skirt, keeping all the decorative and constructive lines of the cut.

If the style of the skirt is without structural and decorative elements, sewing on the lining is easy:

Stitch the darts and side cuts, leaving 16-18 cm unstitched for the fastener in the left side seam (or optionally), hem the bottom of the skirt flush with the cut of the allowance for hemming the bottom of the product.

Combine the processed lining with the waistline, baste.

IMPORTANT: if the upper cut of the skirt is processed with a facing, then the lining is cut out minus the details of the facing. The podkald is stitched to the lower cuts of the facing.

In the clasp, stitch the lining for allowances. To make the lining less mobile, fasten on one side at the level of the hips along the allowances for the seams with the product.

In pleated skirts, position the seam of the lining over the pleat of the top and process the slit for a free step.

The darts and seams in the lining should be located strictly above the darts and seams of the top of the skirt.

Processing the lining in a skirt with a vent.

If the skirt has a vent, the lining of the lower part of the vent must be folded inward and sewn with blind stitches for the allowance for processing the top.

Along the upper edge of the lining with the top of the skirt, we will process the belt or facing.

I do not yet have a video on the topic of processing with a slot (you need to fix the situation), but I found an interesting and understandable video for you.

The teacher very competently and clearly explains to beginners the stages of processing slots.

The first part of the spline processing

The second part of the processing splines

The third part of the spline processing

Skirt ironing.

Skirts need to be ironed only on an ironing board, electric, with an iron with a thermostat through an iron.

First you need to carefully iron, iron or iron all seams, darts, folds, pockets, and then the entire skirt completely through the ironing from the wrong side.

Iron the side seams of the skirts on a special oval-shaped pillow (can be replaced with a towel folded several times) to avoid deformation of the side lines.

We iron all finished products only in the shared direction of the thread, without stretching it.

So, we have considered the modeling and technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs, I hope now it will not be difficult for you to sew such a skirt.

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Pattern of a fashionable pencil skirt with a one-piece belt and original figured reliefs. At the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt there is a slit that provides freedom when walking. The zipper can be located both in the left and in the middle seams.

You can use a variety of fabrics to make skirts. A classic suiting fabric, one-colored and patterned, or a combination of both, is suitable. You can also use raincoat fabric, jeans, corduroy, taffeta and other fabrics. Depending on the fabric and finishes, such as topstitching or set-in piping along the raised seams, this skirt model can be made in both a sporty and classic style. In any case, it is a modern, feminine, original skirt model.

Pattern preparation: print on a regular printer, glue the sheets according to the pattern (it is printed on the first sheet), cut out the size that suits you. That's all, you can start cutting.

Pattern is given full size without seam allowances on a conventional figure. If your parameters do not fit into generally accepted standards, adjust the pattern in accordance with the features of your figure. And also when cutting, make allowances for seams a little more than usual, especially in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

The fabric will need approximately 0.80 m with a width of 1.50.

The upper section of the skirt is processed with a facing.

Open skirts

The middle part of the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
The upper side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
The lower side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
The middle part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
The upper side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
The lower side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
Facing the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
Facing the back panel of the skirt 1 piece

Skirt tailoring

After sewing, overcast all sections and iron or iron them in accordance with the style of the product. Overcast the middle sections of the back panel before sewing

Stitch the side parts together first, and then connect them to the middle part of the skirt. If you settled on a sporty option and selected the fabric accordingly (jeans, corduroy, raincoat fabric, etc.), lay a finishing stitch along each relief (single or double).
At the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel, process the cut.
Now that the front and back panels are finished, join the side seams, leaving an open section in the left side seam for the zipper.
Stitch in the zipper.
Process the upper section of the skirt, having previously duplicated the facing of the front and back panels of the skirt with an adhesive pad.
It remains to hem the bottom and the skirt is ready.